1968 One of the dumb things a PO did to my CS

[obwan93001]

Rubber type sealler applied to both front and rear windshield seals, under the molding. Now that I'm getting ready to begin bodywork and get a paint job I'm making note of all the stuff that'll need to come off. Well, didn't think about it until the other day but I don't really know how to get all the molding pieces off w/o bending them. A PO decided to fix leaky weatherstripping by putting copious amounts of rubber type sealer underneath the molding and has been there for years. I'm beginning to think I should look for a nice set of both front and rear windshield molding as I really don't even know if I can fit a molding clip tool under the molding through all that sealer, argh. All of the moldings are in beautiful shape too w/exception of the dull finish due to age and lack of care but no scratches, dents or bends and I was really, really hoping to reuse them after replacing the weatherstrippng which is all shot and will need to come out when new headliner is installed anyhow.

Oh hwell, I'd really like to not have to replace the great molding if I don't have to and am hoping someone here has dealt w/this type of sitch before. If anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate them very much!

Thanks everyone!

Oscar

 

[franklinair]

Do your best to save the molding- tough to find good replacements, and very pricey. What about trying a heat gun (or blow drier) to try and soften the rubber goop? Then maybe the tool can find the clips.

Neil

 

[obwan93001]

Do your best to save the molding- tough to find good replacements, and very pricey. What about trying a heat gun (or blow drier) to try and soften the rubber goop? Then maybe the tool can find the clips.

Neil

Good idea Neil. I thought about heat but was concerned about the windshield and the heat maybe doing something to the safety plastic or rubber component of the glass and causing a crack. My CS still has all it's original tinted glass and in good shape although the windshield has some pitting but no chips or cracks. I will try a heat gun and just be careful not to concentrate on one area for too long.

Thanks!

 

[Ruppstang]

Oscar,
Tape off the moldings. Get a sharp heavy duty box cutter lay the blade flat on the glass cut through the rubber seal and the sealent. BE VERY CAREFUL! cut away from your self. Start with the top molding. You may not save the first one. The bottem is allways the worst. Push out the windsheild and pull out the rubber seal then remove the bottem. The repop moldings are very thin and dent very easily. I have a collection of orignals. Marty

 

[66hcs-conv]

3M makes a "General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner" their # 08984. Perhaps that could be used to soften the glue/adhesive. CAUTION: the stuff is flammable -no 911 calls please!

Dave

 

[GT/CS S Code]

Black "goop" ...

We had the same problem with our car and opted to take it all out and start fresh with new seals, both front and back. We saved all the original mouldings and re-used them, just be as gentle as possible when you remove them. It took quite a while and a lot of patience to clean all the black "goop" from around the window recesses where the seal installs ... I can't remember the name of the particular solvent we used for the "goop" removal, but it was long, tedious work!
:wink:

 

[obwan93001]

Yuck! I remember that black goo all too well. When I was finishing up HS I worked in a wrecking yard and I remember trying to pull out a windshield in the middle of summer that had that black tar stuff for sealant, I guess it was widely used in the '60s and '70s. We needed to have a squirt bottle filled w/water to cool and harden the goo as we cut at it. Needless to say I broke a few.

Mine seems to have just that rubber or silicone crap a PO put in under the molding. I did notice that there must be a wax or grease type of seal as I have a greasy residue along the inside of the window on the rubber weatherstrip which appears to be the original. IIRC, didn't they use some kind of wax or grease seal in the windshield seals?

I did some Googlin' earlier and found this stuff: http://www.rpm-technology.com/Poly-Gone.htm. Seems like the Poly-Gone 500 might be what I need but I don't know if it'll work on rubber sealant if that's what it is. It does seem like it could be RTV silicone though and if it is then this stuff will dissolve it all and be environmentally safe in the process. I'd like to hear from anyone here who has used this or something similar. Neil, they also make aircraft grade versions of Poly-Gone, have you used it in your work before? I'll have to call their one retail distributor Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Company and see if they sell Poly-Gone 500 and get a quote. If it's anything like the 300 version it will be over $100 for a gallon, ouch, but if it works and I can save my original molding and have some left over to use for other things around the house and garage then it'll be worth it.

Oscar