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. Racing and Dyno Results from July 18, 2009 in Fontana

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
As many of you already know, i've been spending money like crazy trying to get my car to run in the 10s for the first time. Here is my story...

The last time i raced was December 6, 2008. Back then i had a 4.11 gear ratio and just installed an edlebrock nitrous wet shot on the car. I didn't get to race Joe De Los Santos, but instead I raced this guy Ed who has a 2007 Shelby GT-500 with intake, exhuast, supercharger pulley, stock 3.31 gears and cheater slicks. I beat the shelby with a 11.085 @ 110.14mph on a 1.668 60' time having to back on and off the gas because i ran out of gear (6700rpm 300 ft before the finish line) to his 11.539 @ 120.25 (he went through the lights in the top of his 3rd gear). Running on the lean side w/o N20, the mustang put down 378RWHP @ 6500rpm and 361lb.-ft torque and with a 150HP shot of Nitrous it put down 478RWHP and 456lb.-ft. torque, but those numbers were with a 4.11 gear and an auburn limited slip differential.

After the races in December, my plan was to change the 4.11 gear to a 3.70 gear so i could pull all the way through the traps without having to back off the gas. I was planning to spend only about $1000....

When i went to do the gear swap, found out the 3rd member was toast. The gear case was cracked and the metal inside the Auburn was coming apart!

I ended up spending $4,666.66 + $78.95 on gas to break in the rear end before racing it. But the $4,666.66 includes:

Nitrous Express Pressure Activated Sensor Bottle Warmer $275.95
Weld racing 3.5x15" aluminum Draglite Skinny rims (i already had bought the tires for these in Dec.) $191. 95 each
Lug nuts $29.38
3.70 ring and pinion set and a ford 9" master kit with shims, bolts, gasket and bearings $225 + $125 (had to buy another bearing kit because the bearings were too small for the currie gear case, +$125 more)
Painless wiring switch panel with 8 fused switches (to safely rewire the NOS, Heater, and elec fuel pump) $319.95
nitrous blow down tube $24.95
Eaton Detroit Locker for 31 spline axles $519.95
MSD RPM Chip set (6700 rpm chip installed) $26.95
Currie Sportsman 9" gear case $235.00
Currie Aluminum Big Bearing Support cover $123.00
Strange Billet Yoke for Big Bearing Center $115.00
New U joint conversion 1310/3R $37.99
Speedometer/Odometer recalibration $305.30
National Parts Depot (new rocker panel mouldings, door sills, dome light, brake pedal) $116.59
Labor to do work on rear end and wire in switch panel 8 hours at $105.00 per hour-$840
Fill up Nitrous bottle and buy Too much pressure blowoff fitting $88.71
Dyno tune carbureteor $200
Oil change and two dyno pulls $207
12.5 gallons of 100 octane fuel $100
Mount and balance skinny tires on skinny rims $20
$20 to race at Autoclub Dragway
+misc heavy shock proof gear oil, brake cleaner, hardware
+ tax on alot of the above brings total to $4666.66

AND NOW FOR THE FUN PART!

Love the 3.70 gears and detroit locker! Every time you touch the pedal you feel the locker lock! The 3.70 gears allow me to do 70mph at 3600rpm instead of 4000rpm!

The only part i don't like is the loss of torque at the wheels, which is significant.

Dyno #s changed from the tune and gear/rear end changes:

Without Nitrous:
Before: 378RWHP and 361lb.-ft. Running lean with 4.11 gears and Auburn limited slip
Now: 351RWHP and 296lb.-ft. Running rich with 3.70 gears and detroit locker

with Nitrous:
Before: 478RWHP and 456lb.-ft. Running right on (12.7-13.0 air fuel ratio) with 4.11 gears and Auburn limited slip
Now: 469RWHP and 404lb.-ft. Running extremely rich (off the wide band meter's scale, less than 10.0:1 air to fuel ratio)

Went 3 jet sizes bigger on the primaries of the carburetor, from Holley size 71 to Holley size 74 (secondaries are still Holley size 79) but now its running too rich, but thats safer than being lean.

Made it out to the track and prepped the car to race and got my first race at 9:23 am.
Ran the car twice without nitrous to see how the 3.70 gears affect the performance:

12.434 @ 108.81mph on a 1.817 60' time (8th mile in 7.944 @ 88.58mph) hit 5900rpm through the traps

12.529 @ 107.54mph on a 1.799 60' time (8th mile in 7.999 @ 87.73mph) hit 5800rpm through the traps

Being about half a second slower than i was with the 4.11 gears, because of the 3.70 gears and the heat (100 degrees), i didn't think there was any way i would even get close to running 10s because the nitrous knocked off about 1 second in December and i would need to knock off about 1.5 seconds this time.

At 11:24am i went for it with the nitrous, spraying right out of the hole.

Picked the left front wheel off the ground for the first time! probably about a centimeter!
Pulled a 1.615 60' time!
Through the 8th mile in 7.068 @ 99.11mph!

11.042 at 120.85mph!!!!

Knocked off just about 1.5 seconds!

And they didn't kick me off the track for not having a roll cage!

I got another chance to try to hit 10.99

at 12:11am

pulled a 1.700 60' time

through the 8th mile in 7.132 @ 99.44mph

finished with an 11.088 @ 124.08mph!!!

still didnt get kicked off the track....hoping that there was enough Nitrous left in the bottle for one more chance to run 10s!

Lined up against the same shelby GT-500 from december, but this time he has 3.73 gears instead of the stock 3.31 gears.

Last race was at 1:21pm

pulled a 1.658 60' time!
through the 8th mile in 7.220 @ 95mph (Awwwww ran out of Nitrous in 2nd gear)
finished with a 11.371 @ 118.43 mph

to beat the shelby who did 11.928 @ 116.98.

So after spending close to $5000, i almost ran 10s and probably would have if it weren't for the tune being too rich and the weather being so hot (everyone i talked to, including the shelby gt500 was running at least 3 tenths of a second slower than usual that day)

And the fun didnt end there. I have my MSD 6AL ignition box mounted on the floor up by the passengers feet and it tends to overheat when its hot. On the drive home, my tach signal started to bounce all over the place, and when i made it to the 101, 405 interchange where i hit traffic and 106 degree heat, i lost my spark and the car died and i sat on the shoulder of the freeway for 45 minutes trying to let it cool, so i could drive it home....never happened...its toast! had to get toed home!

Well, that's my story...i'm pretty much broke now haha so it will be a while before i get another chance to run 10s.

Now my new best e.t. is 11.042 down from a 11.085 and my new best speed is 124.08mph up from 112.81mph.

Check out the pictures of the timeslips and the dyno graphs! And a few good shots from the track!
 
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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
Here are some pictures from under the car
 

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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
Here are pictures of the dyno graphs and air fuel tables
 

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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
Here are the pictures of the timeslips
 

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CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,189
Congratulations!

Looks like you should spend the money on the roll cage next go around.
 

di81977

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
439
I wish I was able to spend money as fast as you (no wife at home I am guessing). Good luck on your next pass, hope it happens.

My drag strip is a 40 mile drive. I spend the entire trip with my eyes glued to the temp gauge. I know exactly how you feel. I just installed an electric fan from a 92-95 Taurus 3.8L. Supposed to pull over 4,000 cfm's. Ran great on the trip Saturday, 90 degrees and some stop and go traffic. Temp gauge never got above 200. Howeve, battery was DEAD when I killed the engine. Next purchase - 100+ amp Alternator.

Good luck
David
 

390cs68rcode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2004
Messages
2,864
Location
Houston Texas
sooooooo close to that majic 10.99!

I ran a 11.07 a few weeks ago in the Ford GT. Next week I am sending it off to get twin turbos put on it (it will be supercharged AND twin turboed). I am betting I can crack the 10's then. :wink:

Whatcha gonna do different to crack 10.99?
 
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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
Thanks CougarCJ, Casey, Tim, David, Jason. Haha no wife at home, David...i'm only 24 and my car is my girlfriend hahaha

Jason, I'm going to go out to the track when its not 100 degrees and i'm going to get the car dialed in a little better in terms of the tune because it was just DUMPING fuel. I'm told that supercharged cars want an air fuel ratio around 11.5:1 -- 12.0:1....you can see from my air fuel log that without the nitrous i was rich, right when it gets tromped on and with the nitrous it dumped so much fuel that is was below a 10.0:1 ratio...so if all that gets changed to 12.7-13.0 air fuel ratio range, i'm expecting to make more power and with cooler weather it should run quicker...hopefully just enough to get me that 10.99

Here are some pictures from the track:

I raced the Z06 on my first run with the nitrous. They were doing a raffle to win that car. It ran 13.67 @ 111.69 on a 2.438 60' (no traction). On the back of the car it said something like "it ain't braggin if you can back it up mother F'r" haha
 

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390cs68rcode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2004
Messages
2,864
Location
Houston Texas
I forgot about the cooler temps and the supercharger. Mine definately runs better in cooler temps. You will have your 10.9X
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,029
sooooooo close to that majic 10.99!

I ran a 11.07 a few weeks ago in the Ford GT. Next week I am sending it off to get twin turbos put on it (it will be supercharged AND twin turboed). I am betting I can crack the 10's then. :wink:

Whatcha gonna do different to crack 10.99?

Do you have a roll bar?
 

Mustanger

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Messages
1,974
Location
So Cal
I forgot about the cooler temps and the supercharger. Mine definately runs better in cooler temps. You will have your 10.9X

That's awesome Dave! But like Jason and others said, you'll get there ... you may not have to spend anymore money-just wait for coooler temp's!!! ... maybe in Oct~Nov'ish :thumb: ...
 

JohnnyQuest515

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
302
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
I love it! Cooler temps you should be in the high 10's.

**What about lowering your intake temps and fuel?
**Are you headers ceramic coated?
**Electric water pump?
**Water wetter - lower temps in your radiator?
** Rear spring rate?

I'm sure you have done most or thought of them. Just going back to my old drag racing days.

I am thinking about a a 3.50 rear end with Traction Lok versus my 2.79 cruiser &
Dominator AOD with shift kit, street setup.

Randy
 
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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
I love it! Cooler temps you should be in the high 10's.

**What about lowering your intake temps and fuel?
**Are you headers ceramic coated?
**Electric water pump?
**Water wetter - lower temps in your radiator?
** Rear spring rate?

I'm sure you have done most or thought of them. Just going back to my old drag racing days.

I am thinking about a a 3.50 rear end with Traction Lok versus my 2.79 cruiser &
Dominator AOD with shift kit, street setup.

Randy

Hey Randy, i let the car cool down in between races. The water temperature was about 160 degrees right before i made my passes with the nitrous. So the engine is pretty cool.

I thought my hooker super competition long tube 1 5/8" primary headers were ceramic coated, but i'm not 100% positive now. Since you asked, i've been trying to find out....all the ceramic coated headers i've seen are shiny metallic. Mine are black, bought them from P.A.W. back in 2002 for about $500, so i dont know.

Ya, if i'm trying to squeeze as much out of the engine as possible:
i could take off the pulley fan (been told this drag on the engine could be 0.1 seconds) and try another electric fan setup (last time the SPAL fan failed in 3 days and almost cost me my engine)
go to an electric water pump
take off the mechanical fuel pump and have all electric fuel pumps
take off the power steering pump

but all that stuff makes the car less reliable on the street. I'd rather just have enough power that i can run 10s and keep the pulley fan, mech water pump and fuel pumps for ease of mind. The car is not a 100% only drag car...i don't really want to make it that way, at least for now, because its a california special and its great to drive around every other weekend or so.

In terms of the rear spring rate....i just put in factory type leaf springs when i put in the 79 lincoln 9" housing. With the traction bars, shocks, and suspension in general, the car is leaving the line as hard as possible for having a 10" converter and 9" slicks. The only way it could launch any better is if i had more power and an 8" converter and a transbrake, but it hasn't come to that yet.
 
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