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1968 Oil change query...

mbsf1970

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
795
Location
Calgary Alberta
No snickering when you read this ok?!!
I just this week changed the oil on both my Subarus. I had never before done it myself and although I do both cars semi annually, I always took them to quicky lube type places.
Fed up with the ever spiking prices, I decided to buy ramps and other small tools (filter wrench etc..) and do them myself.

Now,

I want to change the oil in my CS but would like some recommendations:

1) conventional or synthetic?
2) if conventional, high mileage oil?
3) 5w30 or 10w30
4) filter recommendation?

Anything else I need to know or you would like to suggest?

Thanks,
Stephen
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
I like 10W-30 any good name brand. Filter: FL1A? Not sure of the number. Again, any name brand quality filter.

Neil
 

stangfan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
1,843
Location
Victoria BC Canada
As Neil said, use a Ford filter FL-1A. I use 4 litres of GTX 10/30 plus a 500 ml bottle of EOS (engine oil supplement) to make up for the zinc that has been removed from the oil.
 

teamlo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
259
Brad Penn 10W-30 and Motorcraft FL1A. I change it in April when I get the car out of storage and again in the fall before it gets put away.
 

Mosesatm

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Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,029
If I may throw in a little different perspective.

I don't know why but in all the old Mustangs I've owned the oil got dirty quickly (my guess is it's the crummy paper air filters) so I changed oil often with basic 10-30 and a top of the line oil filter.

If using a K&N filter may reduce the oil-dirtying-up time and if that is the case I'd definitely go with synthetic oil and change it much less often.
 

stangfan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
1,843
Location
Victoria BC Canada
I always thought that the dirty appearing oil was the result of old school carburation. My 90 5.0 with EFI doesn't do it.
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,029
If old carbs dirty-up the oil are we talking about engine-damaging dirty or just dirty looking?

I like to change my oil as soon as it looks dirty but that occurs so quickly it makes for a lot of oil changes!

Any comments on how often to change the oil on these old cars?
 

stangfan

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
1,843
Location
Victoria BC Canada
Any comments on how often to change the oil on these old cars?

Personally, I like to change the oil in my Mustangs every 6 months. My rationale is that because I do not do short stop and go trips in these cars, the oil always gets hot enough to burn off any contaminants. I use GTX 10/30 oil, Ford FL-1A filters and an oil supplement to add back the zinc that modern oil lacks.

My daily driver that gets lots of short trips gets the oil changed every 3 months.
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Every 3 and 6 months? Wow.... Oil companies love you! :wink:

On an older engine the black is tiny particles in suspension, the oil is doing exactly what it is supposed to. Cleaning your engine internals. Detergents are removing (possibly) decades of grime (assuming an older engine as in most 40+ year old cars) and flocculants hold it in suspension. In the 5000 miles or less range doing no absolutely no harm, and is a good sign (its getting cleaner inside, runs more efficiently and cooler) unless there is something significantly wrong with your engine.

I have never heard that EFI keeps oil cleaner, have no ide how that one works as the air fuel mix is that same... probably just comparing a new engine to an old one. Would be interested to hear the engineering/science behind that one...

As for K&N, their big selling point is more power, not better filtration. Have seen testing which shows they do not filter air as well as other brand air filters. Not sure about their oil filters, but really don't buy into the "race cars use them so its good for the street" (generally different requirements). I run the "bad" Fram's most people hate and ran Pennziol (an oil many love to hate) 30wt until a while back when it got hard to find here and then went to 10W-30, that started in 1991 and the engine still runs fine.

Oxidation and contaminants are an issue and shorted drives do not heat the oil up to burn off moisture/contaminants and that is an issue. I'd say 3 months is way overkill, but if you have the time and money, go for it.

Annual changes are a general guideline many use for older casual drivers. On the low miles issue some go 6 months as all the oxidizing "stuff" that can result from low mile use does degrade oil.

Synthetics and other whiz-bang oils are a waste of money in an old pushrod 289/302 IMHO, and of moderate value in most old school pushrod/carbed FoMoCo engines.

And if you believe Consumer Reports they looked into oils and wear and came up noting oil changes at 7500 miles for vehicles doing "regular driving" is not an issue, unless you are doing some extreme driving more frequent changes are just making the oil companies more $$$.

Jiffy Lube and all the other quick change artists have made a business of selling the "3000 mile change"... but they have your best interests at heart, right? :wink:

(Which reminds me... I'm probably overdue for my annual changes in the two drivers!! Another job for this weekend!! :smile:)
 
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