My california special scripts needed replacing. The old ones are being held on by #4 flat speed nuts on both CS's. I hate flat speed nuts. Is this the correct attachment method? I am thinking of taking a 4-40 die and threading the posts, then using a #4 nut, flatwasher, and split washer. The scripts go on and off in a flash (i tested this out on one of the old scripts which is pretty much junk; this is good for waxing as the detailing on and around the scripts is painful) u can replace these with the flat speed washers for shows. the threaded posts on the scripts make it easy to switch.
COMMUNITY
1968 GT/CS & HCS
2007+ GT/CS
1966-1967 HCS
-
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attaching methods for scripts
- Thread starter 69convert
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somethingspecial
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Yes, The flat speed nuts are correct. If you do use # 4 nuts, be careful when running the Die nut over the pins. One wrong move and you have script with no pin. Try KepNuts instead of split lock washers. KepNuts are the nuts with the star washer attached. Good Luck. Mike
P
PNewitt
Guest
I don't mean to prudish, but I'd stay with the speed nuts--as original.
After 400k-plus miles, over all kinds of roads, I've never lost a script.
I find adding threaded nuts are overkill. If you really want to be safe & secure--use some epoxy on the stud before you attach the speed nut.
The repro CS script sets "wrongly" include the plastic inserts, like the "Mustang" enblems use.
Paul.
(oopsie...don't tell Donna. I used "stud" and "speed nuts" in the same sentance)
After 400k-plus miles, over all kinds of roads, I've never lost a script.
I find adding threaded nuts are overkill. If you really want to be safe & secure--use some epoxy on the stud before you attach the speed nut.
The repro CS script sets "wrongly" include the plastic inserts, like the "Mustang" enblems use.
Paul.
(oopsie...don't tell Donna. I used "stud" and "speed nuts" in the same sentance)
nuts
Went ahead and cut threads on the scripts pins. Placed scripts on a block of wood which I took great care to keep clear of metal shavings. Used cutting oil and a new (ie sharp) 4-40 die. Carefully and slowly cut the threads while keeping the die perpendicular to the pins. the pins are almost the perfect size. I lightly filed the ends of the pins which did not seem to want to start threading so I did not have to apply much pressure. I did this on the old scripts and manhandled them just to see how fragile they were. The scripts are surprisingly tough.
This was not to make sure the scripts became lost. The ones on the car had obviously been on there a long, long time. This was to make it easy to remove the scripts when waxing the car or detailing the scripts. Instead of trying to remove those stupid "speed nuts" I can remove all the nuts quickly and easily.
You can still thread the speed nuts on instead of regular nuts. the speed nuts will actually act like speed nuts instead of jam-up nuts. Probably not a good idea for a concurs car. Does anyone think that the threads on the pins would be noticed?
Went ahead and cut threads on the scripts pins. Placed scripts on a block of wood which I took great care to keep clear of metal shavings. Used cutting oil and a new (ie sharp) 4-40 die. Carefully and slowly cut the threads while keeping the die perpendicular to the pins. the pins are almost the perfect size. I lightly filed the ends of the pins which did not seem to want to start threading so I did not have to apply much pressure. I did this on the old scripts and manhandled them just to see how fragile they were. The scripts are surprisingly tough.
This was not to make sure the scripts became lost. The ones on the car had obviously been on there a long, long time. This was to make it easy to remove the scripts when waxing the car or detailing the scripts. Instead of trying to remove those stupid "speed nuts" I can remove all the nuts quickly and easily.
You can still thread the speed nuts on instead of regular nuts. the speed nuts will actually act like speed nuts instead of jam-up nuts. Probably not a good idea for a concurs car. Does anyone think that the threads on the pins would be noticed?
I may be wrong on this one, but aren't the original nuts used on the scripts called "barrel nuts"? I used small speed nuts on the back of all my scripts except for the "Mustang" script on the trunk. That one can't be accessed from the rear so the barrel nuts were required to mount it.
Steve
Steve
P
PNewitt
Guest
right...Barrell Nuts for the "Mustang" script, and speed nuts for the CS script.
Now--here is a trivia question for you guys and gals:
Were the holes for the CS script punched/drilled before or after the inside textured body insulation was sprayed into the sides of the trunk? Are there "chunks" of that stuff cracked out and missing where the holes are--but yet with original body paint over it?
Which was first to last? Holes drilled, paint, insulation? In what order?
Paul.
Now--here is a trivia question for you guys and gals:
Were the holes for the CS script punched/drilled before or after the inside textured body insulation was sprayed into the sides of the trunk? Are there "chunks" of that stuff cracked out and missing where the holes are--but yet with original body paint over it?
Which was first to last? Holes drilled, paint, insulation? In what order?
Paul.
390cs68rcode
Well-known member
punched then texture then paint
John McGilvary
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I think they were textured punched and then painted.
nfrntau
Well-known member
Bringing back an old topic,
I have a replacement script I need to install. Thanks Ron for your help on this one, Top Notch.
My present script was attached with a small barrel but it appears to be very fixed to the old script.
Are the speed nuts still the best way to attach the CS script if you are not concerned with being able to remove them for cleaning (as noted previously) in this thread?
If so, does anyone know what size I need and if I can just pick them up at the local hardware store?
Cheers
Bill
I have a replacement script I need to install. Thanks Ron for your help on this one, Top Notch.
My present script was attached with a small barrel but it appears to be very fixed to the old script.
Are the speed nuts still the best way to attach the CS script if you are not concerned with being able to remove them for cleaning (as noted previously) in this thread?
If so, does anyone know what size I need and if I can just pick them up at the local hardware store?
Cheers
Bill
robert campbell
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Drilled! No other option. Could not and never were punched. Never made replacement panels for a GT/CS rear quarter with holes in them. Would need two different dies, one for the recessed and one for the later one.
Old topic. No way to put a "fixture" on the side of an assembled car. If punched they would have been done when the quarter was formed. If that had happened they would have made replacement quarters.
Burrs are the result of old drill bits not a punch.
As a sheetmetal mechanic in the 1970's I punched and drilled thousands and thousands of holes. Set up fixtures for extruding of sheetmetal into curved shapes. Set up multiple fixtures for production line notching, punching and extruding in one process.
Templates where laid on the quarter of an assembled car and they were drilled.
Rob
Old topic. No way to put a "fixture" on the side of an assembled car. If punched they would have been done when the quarter was formed. If that had happened they would have made replacement quarters.
Burrs are the result of old drill bits not a punch.
As a sheetmetal mechanic in the 1970's I punched and drilled thousands and thousands of holes. Set up fixtures for extruding of sheetmetal into curved shapes. Set up multiple fixtures for production line notching, punching and extruding in one process.
Templates where laid on the quarter of an assembled car and they were drilled.
Rob
robert campbell
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I will post the speed nut Ford part number tomorrow.
Mosesatm
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nfrntau
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Thats what I needed
Thanks Arlie.
I'll swing by Ace hardware on the way home and pick up some 3/32" push pin fasteners.
Cheers
Bill
Thanks Arlie.
I'll swing by Ace hardware on the way home and pick up some 3/32" push pin fasteners.
Cheers
Bill
robert campbell
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Bill,
I am sorry. Got confused by the old topic and thought it was new. All you wanted was where to get speed nuts and not some diatribe from an old debate I had with the registrar.
Sorry!!! Glad Arlie helped. I was not venting on you in any way!!!
Rob
I am sorry. Got confused by the old topic and thought it was new. All you wanted was where to get speed nuts and not some diatribe from an old debate I had with the registrar.
Sorry!!! Glad Arlie helped. I was not venting on you in any way!!!
Rob
nfrntau
Well-known member
Rob,
I have been losing sleep thinking you were venting at me. The only way you can make amends is to fly to Houston and dial in my carb for me.
Only then will I forgive you
I have been losing sleep thinking you were venting at me. The only way you can make amends is to fly to Houston and dial in my carb for me.
Only then will I forgive you
franklinair
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That seems a fair solution to me. OR- you could drive your C/S to SEA for the big show in July, and we could all shame Rob into making amends.
Neil
Neil
robert campbell
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Rob,
I have been losing sleep thinking you were venting at me. The only way you can make amends is to fly to Houston and dial in my carb for me.
Only then will I forgive you
Only if you have Arlie's favorite "thick beer" on tap locally!! I would love to come down and play with your car. I know that sounds corny, but getting that last bit of HP, gas mileage, and smooooooth-ness is an obsession with me!!!
Rob
nfrntau
Well-known member
OK, you got me on that one. I don't know what Arlies favorite "Thick Beer" is. I do know that it's not Coors Light which is what you generally find in my fridge.
I won't be making it to Sea in July but I am trying to make things work for June 2011 in Colorado. The only problem I see whith Rob fine tuning my car in Colorado is that by the time I get it back at sea level it will be all off again.
I won't be making it to Sea in July but I am trying to make things work for June 2011 in Colorado. The only problem I see whith Rob fine tuning my car in Colorado is that by the time I get it back at sea level it will be all off again.
