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Old 09/25/2013, 05:27 PM   #1
whodat
 
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Water leak

I have a leak coming in behind the left kick panel. I got caught in the rain and noticed the water coming in. I recently had a windshield gasket installed. I went back to the glass place who has a good reputation for working on old cars and mustangs. They put some gasket sealer around the suspect area. The area is around the drivers side windshield lower corner. It didn't work. I let it dry 4 days. He suggested I pull my dashboard to see where the water is coming from. I let the water go in the cowl and it doesn't go inside the car. Any suggestions? I am at my wits end with this leak. Cruisin The Coast is right around the corner and I don't have time to pull the dash.

Last edited by whodat; 09/25/2013 at 05:41 PM..
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Old 09/25/2013, 06:35 PM   #2
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Did he seal the rubber/body seam or the rubber/glass seam?
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Old 09/25/2013, 07:28 PM   #3
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Pull the trim, seal around the whole gasket. Doing one small area is generally a failure as its hard to tell where its really coming from. A hole at the top dribbles down behind and leaks out the bottom, sealing the surface at the bottom does not fix it.

Pick out any old/dry/roted sealer. Use a thin tip, 1/8" dia max, work it down into into the gap between gasket and body and slowly seal around the whole thing making sure the void fills. Wipe with a finger or tool to press in well. Top up and soft spots that do not fill and ooze out sealer as you press it in. Areas around the clips need special attention.

If the glass was dry set into the gasket you can also do the same between glass and upper seal. A hard spot to work into but water can migrate around the glass. I always put a bead of selant in the gasket channel before installing the glass.

A tube is usually enough. Sometimes a bit more..
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Old 09/26/2013, 06:47 AM   #4
whodat
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
Did he seal the rubber/body seam or the rubber/glass seam?
Rubber/ Glass left lower corner and behind the dash molding left side.
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Old 09/28/2013, 11:25 AM   #5
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I would go back and ask them to pull the windshield back out and seal the whole thing.

Steve

The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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Old 09/28/2013, 04:11 PM   #6
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No need to pull the glass if you seal as noted. Risks breakage and unless there is some damage to fix on the body/flange sealing around the edge completely and glass to seal fixes it almost every time IME.

No need to "pull the dash" (not sure how you do that on a Mustang, you can pull the trim and pad for some access, but not much) either as then you are sealing inside the car, not keeping the water outside, you'll rust the body/flange as water will still get under the glass and then stop at the inner flange... if they stick to that "solution" find another shop.

Last edited by dalorzo_f; 09/28/2013 at 05:27 PM..
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Old 09/28/2013, 05:14 PM   #7
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I am going to try it and see what it does by filling in around like you said. I'm not going to pull the pad. I do however have to pull the cluster once again to fix gauges.
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Old 09/28/2013, 05:52 PM   #8
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Cool

It sounds to me like they didn't use the Bedding and Glazing compound, but used the newer Urethane sealer. I took my 67 back 3 times and it still leaks and the windshield was installed by a company that is suppose to know how to install the classic car windshields. I finally asked them if they used the bedding and glazing compound and the owner said no.

I need to install a new headliner and vinyl top so I will take the windshield out again and install it after the headliner and vinyl top are done using the bedding and glazing compound. Every windshield that I have done using the b.& g. compound has been dry as a bone. It is what they used in the factory so it only makes sense to use it when replacing a windshield.

Cheers,

Ron

"You can't build a reputation on what you're going to do." - Henry Ford
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Old 09/28/2013, 06:13 PM   #9
dalorzo_f
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Yep. These were not designed for the urethane. Wrong product, if someone says to use it on a 60's Mustang find another shop that knows what they are doing.

The correct sealant provides some flex to keep the seal which is not there with the urethane, which is for newer glue-in screens with a higher tolerance mating surface.
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