Thanks for the replies. One side is all clean and shiny! I'll get to the other side tomorrow.
Steve, the engine is still in the car.
On last year's road trip it was using a quart of oil every day, (around 600 miles) and it smelled exhausty so I ran a vacuum test and the it indicated worn valve guides. I pulled the heads and took them in to Bill's engine guy for a rebuild. Should have them back this week!