HoT EnGiNe

[CobraMan]

Yes the Summer is here and my engine keeps reminding me. I have a 289 2V that I restored the radiator, installed a high velocity electric radiator fan and replaced my entire under dash A/C unit with all new equipment. I drive my GT/CS daily because I down right love it! Oh, also replaced the "Heat" sending unit on the intake to make certain all information is accurate.

The engine gets so hot that I need to turn off my A/C Compressor in order for the temperature to drop the needle from damn near pegged to just a notch below pegged. THe A/C unit is a brand spanking new unit that hold 134A. Not the old type of A/C unit (Although I did retain).

I am considering an aluminum radiator but don't want to play the guessing game.

Any and all suggestions are WELCOME!

Thanks all

 

[69convert]

with the engine !COOL! start the car. When the thermostat opens (upper radiator hose will get hot also) you should see water flowing through the radiator. If there are no clogs, the thermostat is open, the water pump is pumping ,and a hose isn't collapsing you should see a pretty good movement of water. Don't open the radiator cap after the car is hot. The steam will burn on contact.

If the above are okay, add a fan shroud if you don't have one . this is effective if the fan is pulling air through the radiator. Not so good if the fan is mounted in front of the radiator and is pushing air through it. The shroud is also good for keeping your fingers out of the fan blade.

If everything in cooling system is okay and you have a shroud, you can
replace your radiator with a 3 row "desert" radiator and this should take care of your problem. Added one of these to my car and now the needle never moves whether on the highway or in stop and go traffic on 100 degree days. these radiators are a lot more efficient than the old OEM radiators.

I really don't think you need the expensive aluminum radiator.

 

[case12]

I have a really stupid question. When you say that 'you will see water flowing through the radiator' do you mean that you have the radiator cap off in order to see this?

Just thought I would take a look at mine since I am planning a few hundred mile trip soon - and I want to insure she stays cool. Casey

 

[Mosesatm]

I have a really stupid question. When you say that 'you will see water flowing through the radiator' do you mean that you have the radiator cap off in order to see this?

Just thought I would take a look at mine since I am planning a few hundred mile trip soon - and I want to insure she stays cool. Casey

When you look into the radiator, with the cap removed, you should see the water flowing from left to right (I think it's left to right, might be right to left). Make sure the radiator is full so you can see the water.

 

[franklinair]

I lived in south FL most of my life. Drove a '68 coupe daily, equipped with factory A/C.The car was Black/Black, so I really needed the A/C working well in the 95 - 100 degree temps. It had the original fan, fan shroud, 3 row core radiator. (It was the old 1 lung compressor type, R-12 freon) I installed a FOUR row radiator, and never had any more problems with engine running hot - even in traffic. The aluminum radiators =$$$, and a 4 row should work in extreme temps, but be sure you utilize a fan shroud (very important)

Neil Hoppe

 

[CobraMan]

Thanks

Thanks for the feedback thus far. The electric fan has a built in shroud. It moves a lot of air! I'm impressed.

I like what I'm reading about the radiators. Any suggestions on where to purchase the 3/4 Row Radiators from? The aluminum is a bit expensive and I really don't want to go down that road if I can prevent it.

69Convert, is Desert the manufacturer or a type of radiator?

 

[franklinair]

If my memory serves me, I got the 4 row radiator from NAPA. NPD may also carry them. Having a fan shroud is VERY important. Hope this helps.
Neil Hoppe

PS
I also used a 160 degree thermostat.

 

[robert campbell]

Yes the Summer is here and my engine keeps reminding me. I have a 289 2V that I restored the radiator, installed a high velocity electric radiator fan and replaced my entire under dash A/C unit with all new equipment. I drive my GT/CS daily because I down right love it! Oh, also replaced the "Heat" sending unit on the intake to make certain all information is accurate.

The engine gets so hot that I need to turn off my A/C Compressor in order for the temperature to drop the needle from damn near pegged to just a notch below pegged. THe A/C unit is a brand spanking new unit that hold 134A. Not the old type of A/C unit (Although I did retain).

I am considering an aluminum radiator but don't want to play the guessing game.

Any and all suggestions are WELCOME!

Thanks all

Couple of questions before you spend money.
1. Did it run hot before?
2. What temp setting is the thermostat?
3. I know this is a duh, but does the electric fan draw the air from front to back through the radiator?
4. What diameter is the electric fan?
5. What temp is the electric fan set to turn on?

I worked in a radiator shop for 2 years in the early 70’s. We always tested the thermostats, whether new or used by immersing them in a pan of water and bringing them to a boil with a thermometer. You should see them crack open at the stamped temperature and achieve full opening at about 5 degrees past their stamped temp.

I assume this is car that although driven a lot (me too!!!) stays close to home in the winter. With that in mind, I would run a 180-degree thermostat in it. Typically they are recommended a 195-degree thermostat. You might try dropping to the 180. That temp is perfect for a car that is not abused in the world of cold daily driving of very short distances.

You indicate that your car was an original A/C car. I am a bit inexperienced in this area, but didn’t an A/C car come with the 5 or 6-blade fan, and a shroud? I thought A/C cars automatically got an upgrade to this additional cooling? I am not a huge fan of electric fans. I am assuming that when your car is at the “hot peg” that if you got out, the fan is going full speed. Electric fans have their own thermostat and do not turn on until that temp is achieved. Sometimes the car is past a point of know return in the heat department.

If I was you I would try my stock fan (by the way is it a clutch fan??) and old shroud. Drive the car and see if that is an improvement. If it is a clutch fan it could have been the culprit if the car overheated before all of this. I replace a ton of those for customers that thought they needed a new radiator. You should remove the electric fan for this trial as it blocks the passage of air. Most auto part stores have those “through the radiator ties” that many electric fans mount with if you go back. I just had to do this with an external tranny cooler.

Answers to all the above questions will help all of us help you!!! By the way, the 3 or 4 row radiator is not a bad investment for your car and will help it out.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

Good points. My original '68, factory air (289 eng) had a 5 bladed fan - no clutch, with the shroud. I opted for the 160 degree thermostat 'cause I wanted the coolant to start circulating sooner. The 180 degree thermostat is the more likely to be used. I never had to use an electric fan installation. How old is the radiator? Is it 2 row or 3 row? For an A/C car in warm climate, 3 row is minimal. 4 row works great. Don't even look at a 2 row!!
Neil

 

[robert campbell]

Neil,
Good info!! On the East Coast I would more than likely drop to a 160 for our nice weather cars. Just gets the water moving quicker and not to cold to hurt the motor. And the bigger radiator is just more insurance.

Unless you don't have the space or want to eliminate some horse power loss from a mechanical fan, I would not go to the electric either. All my cars run mechanical fans.

Great advice!

Rob

 

[66hcs-conv]

My own opnion here, but I have always heard that brass will dissapate more heat than aluminium, so I would not use a alum. radiator.

And I would sure try a 3 or 4 row radiator. I got a 3 row from Virginia Mustang. I live at 7500 feet and it keeps cool (although no AC).

Dave

 

[Mosesatm]

I read on a radiator supplier's site that only water-based or lacquer paints should be used on radiators. The site said that enamels should never, never, never be used. It's like wrapping the radiator in a plastic bag.

 

[franklinair]

Good point, Arlie. I hadn't thought about that - I just had always used black lacquer. Easy spray & dries quick. And the point about brass dissapating heat better than aluminum - I've heard that for years as the accepted preference, but I'm not a metalurgist so I can't confirm or explain why, just always accepted it.

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie is right on!

We had a special black paint when I worked in the radiator shop. It addressed what Arlie said. Cannot remember what it was.

The commercial liquid paint removers work great on a core with a bunch of paint on them. His core is new so it should not have much paint on it.

When I paint them today I use the barest minimum on the core. Do not care if it has a little "brassy" look. Just enough to look good on the tanks. My 67 has a 4 row and I polish the top tank for a dfferent look. I use Krylon semi flat black enamal, same as my engine compartment.

I have any aluminum in my 57 wagon. From what I have read, aluminum disapates heat faster than brass. Also, the tubes are much wider in the aluminum radiator. A 2 row aluminum is the same general thickness as a 4 row brass. I got a "universal" one from Summit for $170 bucks. No one other than Crites has a direct bolt in for a 57 Ford. The direct bolt in ones for Mustangs are much spendier!!

Rob

 

[gtcs1]

I lived in south FL most of my life. Drove a '68 coupe daily, equipped with factory A/C.The car was Black/Black, so I really needed the A/C working well in the 95 - 100 degree temps. It had the original fan, fan shroud, 3 row core radiator. Neil Hoppe

Hi,
My GT Cs 289 auto 2V doesn't have the fan shroud, The car is all original. Is that correct or could it have been that it was removed previously.

Thanks

 

[68gt390]

Hi,
My GT Cs 289 auto 2V doesn't have the fan shroud, The car is all original. Is that correct or could it have been that it was removed previously.

Thanks

All 1968 Mustangs came with a fan shroud. If yours is missing it was removed by a previous owner.

Don

 

[nfrntau]

I thought only the 68 Mustangs with A/C or 390/428 came with the shroud. So I looked it up. It appears that 390/428, 289/302 cars with A/C, 289 hipo, and all cars with standard transmission came with fan shrouds. It also lists "with extra cooling" but I'm not familiar with this option?
My 289 automatic did not have a shroud when I bought it and I'm pretty sure it was unmolested.

 

[franklinair]

If a '68 289/302 had factory air it had a fan shroud, with a 5 bladed non-clutched fan. I can't speak to other years as I'm not familiar enough with years before or after. The shroud is VERY important, for the venturi effect. I measured the radiator in my car, its 24" width. I believe '67 & '68's should be the same size. Hope this helps.
Neil Hoppe

 

[CobraMan]

I love this site. Sorry it has taken so much time to respond but it seems like when I'm not working, my head is under the hood or up my rear...

All your feedback has been awesome. Thanks. I changed my thermostat and all is good. So far (3 days now), my car is running cool in the Texas heat.

BTW, I'm really digging the electric fan. Modern and very effecient in traffic that's stop and go. I don't have the heater core hooked up yet either due to me just replacing at the beginning of the year. Not certain if I ever need it. Sounds like the "Heat Delete" option on those cars shipped to Hawaii doesn't it?