Halogen tail light bulbs

[gt bandit]

Steve

actually the lamps work no matter what - its the LED variety wont work when the engine is running - but work Okay (not magnifcient !!) when the power is on but no engine running.

regards

shaun

 

[Mosesatm]

Exactly what my car does. Bulbs work fine all the time but the LEDs won't work with the engine running. When I pulled the alternator belt they worked.

 

[p51]

Just bought a couple of the "JamStrait" 1157 LED bulbs (12 LEDs) from Kragen. They work fine. But I'm underwhelmed by their effect. Took them out and went back to the regular 1157 bulbs. I really like the look of LED bulbs on newer cars and think it would be unique look on a classic mustang but the brightness and the "point effect" of these replacement 1157 doesnt fit what I'm looking for.

 

[franklinair]

I opted for the superbrightleds.com LED's (30 LED's per bulb, red, not pinpointed) and they work fine. Pertronic ignition is on car. Everything works fine, whether the engine (alternator) is running or not. I'm not familiar with the other systems and/or brands, all I can say is the type/brand I used posed no problem.
Neil Hoppe

 

[PNewitt]

I just finished soldering over 200 LEDs for a project--so, I think I know a little bit about them...

LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) work primarily on voltage, not amperage (i.e. 12 volts at 20mA, each). So, possibly, "they like the battery more than the alternator".

LEDs also have a narrow width of projection. Regular incandescent bulbs give out 180 degrees, and LEDs usually give out only 30-40 degrees of width of light each. That is why you get the intense light, but it's not reflecting off the housings, like incandescent 1157 bulbs do.

I saw some on a GT/CS some time ago, and although they were bright enough, you didn't get that full look of light in the taillights. I guess it's a personal choice.

Paul N.

 

[franklinair]

Paul made a good point "they like the battery more than the alternator." The battery provides pure DC volts & amps. Alternators produce AC voltage which is rectified inside the alternator, coming out then as DC volts & amps. Could these problems of no lights when the engine is running be caused by a faulty alternator not producing "pure" DC?

Steve - what do you think? Faulty full wave rectifier in the alternator?

Neil Hoppe

 

[rvrtrash]

I don't think it would be the alternator. Without getting into a discussion on reverse leakage, if you had a shorted or open diode in the alternator, you would be having problems with your battery as well and I would imagine any alternator problem that affected LED tail lights would also affect your radio. Without being there to see and measure what's going on, I would have to guess at either a design flaw in the LED units or they are defective. I'm sorry but without knowing how they're designed and what their operating parameters are, it's hard to know what's shutting them down. I'd measure the voltage at the tail lights, both with the engine running and not, and then call the company and tell them what's going on and get their feedback.

Steve

 

[gt bandit]

They guys who sell them " MProject" advised that there system has a Microprocessor and this can be interfered with by Electrical Noise which is a common side effect of MSD ignitions apparently

I bagged them back up and shoved them in the cupboard ,one day i will get around to fixing the noise issue - but for now incandescent will do

 

[Mosesatm]

NPD has the halogens for $8.00 each

 

[rvrtrash]

They guys who sell them " MProject" advised that there system has a Microprocessor and this can be interfered with by Electrical Noise which is a common side effect of MSD ignitions apparently

OK, I would consider that a design flaw. I wouldn't use a microprocessor without a filter on the board.

Steve

 

[mustangproject]

LED Taillights

Just to set the record straight Mustang Project has always produced LED kits which will work with MSD ignition systems -- as has been indicated by some of the board posters here as well.

In fact our test car has a MSD6AL igintion system Pertronix II and flame thrower coil -- a very popular combination. Each LED board has a microprocessor with sophisticated special filter circuitry to prevent unwanted problems. These kits have been used on race cars, and many hot rod customs with elaborate electronics and many many cars with MSD ignition systems.

Now any particularly board can be defective but we have the best record in the industry and back it up with a LIFETIME warranty. After 7 years of producing this product we are very confident our kit can work on any car that has proper (factory like) ground connections. Nothing special is required but good wiring set ups are needed.

Normally when an electrical problem happens it is due to a faulty Alernator with a diode or diodes which have failed or is in the process of failing. Failing regulators can also casue problem. This causes the voltage to the lighting circuits to become intermittent at a high frequency which actually interrupts power to the lighting circuits. This is not usually noticable with incandescent lamps except that a slight flicker can be noticed.

Every so often poor contacts in the lamp sockets can cause problems as even slight vibraitons can cause problems with poor contact that only appear when the car is running. Ford made some really poor lamp sockets in the early 60s. Sometimes the old incandescent lamps work fine because they weigh less and still make good contact.

So in summary unless there is a failing electrical component of some sort the kits will work in any electrical configuraiton mentioned thus far.

 

[franklinair]

It looks like we're discussing the same item/issue on this thread as well as the FOR SALE thread.

Bottom line folks: the MP LED kits are a proven (and guaranteed) product. Figure the odds: how many kits sold/installed versus how many cars have a problem? Even more specific- instances cited of malfunction when engine is running, and even more specific- related to the alternator (and possibly the V/R). If anyone experiences the problem of the lites not working when the engine is running, best be checking your alternator. Its telling you something. If it hasn't failed altogether yet, it soon will.
I don't work for nor represent MP, but I've chased electrons since 1957. Hope this helps.
Neil Hoppe

 

[Mosesatm]

It looks like we're discussing the same item/issue on this thread as well as the FOR SALE thread.

Bottom line folks: the MP LED kits are a proven (and guaranteed) product. Figure the odds: how many kits sold/installed versus how many cars have a problem? Even more specific- instances cited of malfunction when engine is running, and even more specific- related to the alternator (and possibly the V/R). If anyone experiences the problem of the lites not working when the engine is running, best be checking your alternator. Its telling you something. If it hasn't failed altogether yet, it soon will.
I don't work for nor represent MP, but I've chased electrons since 1957. Hope this helps.
Neil Hoppe

My car has a new alternator and regulator, and the tail light sockets are clean and well grounded.

Unless you want sequential I'd say go to your local auto parts store and buy 6 LED bulbs for less than 1/3 the price of the MP setup.

 

[franklinair]

I agree with Arlie. (Sequentials are not correct for C/S-HCS cars.) I opted for the superbrightled.com LED's (30LED/1157) for my C/S. They work fine & bright. About $8 ea.
Neil Hoppe

 

[Midnight Special]

I agree with Arlie. (Sequentials are not correct for C/S-HCS cars.) I opted for the superbrightled.com LED's (30LED/1157) for my C/S. They work fine & bright. About $8 ea.
Neil Hoppe

...I'm going to try the LEDs (non-sequentials) shortly & will report... Sequentials might look good on the clone, but I won't use on the real CS.

Here's a video found on YouTube (kinda' boring) of a nice looking CS with some typical (bizarre) tail light behavior. What's up w/ that? ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4--zhZajWEQ

 

[PNewitt]

I've always liked the T-Bird/Cougar sequential lights. They were designed for safety.

I personally don't see any problem with anyone using the sequential circuit on their driver GT/CS. Especially if you're going with the LEDs, which is "non-concours", anyway, the use of the sequential circuit is just as "custom". If you're going "concours", then stock bulbs and no-sequential lights is the way to go. Judges will see the LED lights during the pre-judging checks for the lights and other mechanicals.

Again, I must emphasize that the LEDs only put out about a 60 degree angle of light. A regular bulb will put out 180 degrees or more. With all that red lens to fill up with light, the LEDs "fail" as far as full lighting of the taillight area.

The GT/CS taillight circuit and it's wiring is a close call in the amperage dept. The weakest part is the turn signal switch contacts--because of the added amperage of four more bulbs. That's why they get fried so (relatively) often.

I'd like folks to think about their wiring harness before jumping into an instant fix with LEDs. Yes, they use less amperage, but good and/or restored wiring, and stock type bulbs will produce very good results.

Paul N.

 

[case12]

Obviously to each his own - But my lights work great and look great.

MCA has no rules on this. Most functional items are not judged, and no judge is taking apart lights to find out.

Anyway, it sounds like MP will ship out a new unit to anyone having a problem. That would seem to rule out MP as the source. I would take them up on the offer.

Again - I am just offering my experience and interests. I respect others too.

Thanks, Casey

 

[Mosesatm]

It seems to me that MP has a huge discrepancy they need to clear up. The MP poster claims that the lights work with any ignition system but someone from MP told Shaun that electronic ingitions can cause problems.

I think we deserve a straight answer.

 

[Midnight Special]

I agree with Arlie. (Sequentials are not correct for C/S-HCS cars.) I opted for the superbrightled.com LED's (30LED/1157) for my C/S. They work fine & bright. About $8 ea.
Neil Hoppe

...I just installed a set of Jamstait 1157R (from Kragen). They light, but no turn signal probably due to low amperage... Neil, did you have to install a compatible flasher unit? Are your bulbs different than these recommended to me? Some reading just I did said to add a resistor to increase the load on the circuit for the flasher to work, but that "load" is what I'm trying to minimize...

learning curve ;-) Thanks for your help!

 

[franklinair]

I made no alterations other than installing the superbrightled 30/1157 bulbs. Everything else is completely original. Tail lights, brake lights, turn signals all worked correctly, only brighter.
Neil