1968 Gas Gauge problems and a few questions

[whodat]

I replaced the instrument bezel. Therefore I had to remove all components. When I reinstalled the gas gauge it wants to peg out past full. I have repeatedly loosened the bezel and adjusted the connections. Sometimes it only last a short time.I checked the ground at the tank. It worked fine before I removed it. Why don't they sell fuel gauges for the 68? I see them for other years. Another question is if I replaced the rear shocks with coil over types would it improve the ride? I sounds like there is a rubbing sound back there when I hit a bump. The springs are new. Also any suggestions to getting more HP for a c-code 289? When I rebuild the engine I'd like to increase HP. But keep it sounding normal. Would adding rear disc brakes help? And does anyone do this?

 

[Ruppstang]

If the gas gage is pegged full it is grounded somewhere. Disconect the wire to the fuel tank and see if it is still pegged. If it is check and see if something if toughing the back of the gage and that all the wires are in the right place. I have a lot of used gages for sale, but I am sure that is not your problem.
As far as the rubbing sound check the vent hose on the rear axel housing, if it is not routed correctly it can rub.
For more HP bulid it as a 331 stroker is hard to beat but I am a stock kind of a guy. There are others here that know far more than I about that stuff.
First do you have front discs? If so adding the rears is possible and there are kits sold. Good luck Marty

 

[franklinair]

As Marty said: the fuel gage circuit is somehow grounded. Either the sending unit (although not likely failed in the grounded mode) or the wire to the fuel gage (most likely)is somehow grounded. I have never experienced the gage itself failing. (The ammeter is another story- they stink.)
What size tires are you running in the rear? Anything larger than 205X70X14, you stand a chance of rubbing. I installed air shocks, although a lot of folks poo-poo that concept. I happen to like a higher stance in the rear, and the tires don't rub (I went with 215X70X)14 and air shocks- and no rub).
As far as the 289, I (like Marty) am a stock kind of guy. All I ever jazzed up was an Edelbrock 4BBL intake & 600 CFM carb, Pertronix ignition for reliability. I ground off the Edelbrock name on the manifold, painted it blue. To the casual observer, it looks stock. The 2:79 rear gear ratio doesn't offer much zip for accelleration. I went to a 3:00. It helped, but highway cruising RPM's will be a little higher, if that's a factor for you.
Rob Campbell is a good source for engine work/mods. (Just don't let him talk you into installing high compression pistons and a blower !! He's a bad boy.) ;-)

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

The 289 has 2 basic problems which are low compression and poor exhaling.

Higher compression pistons, porting the heads, and better exhaust manifolds will help considerably.

 

[robert campbell]

I replaced the instrument bezel. Therefore I had to remove all components. When I reinstalled the gas gauge it wants to peg out past full. I have repeatedly loosened the bezel and adjusted the connections. Sometimes it only last a short time.I checked the ground at the tank. It worked fine before I removed it. Why don't they sell fuel gauges for the 68? I see them for other years. Another question is if I replaced the rear shocks with coil over types would it improve the ride? I sounds like there is a rubbing sound back there when I hit a bump. The springs are new. Also any suggestions to getting more HP for a c-code 289? When I rebuild the engine I'd like to increase HP. But keep it sounding normal. Would adding rear disc brakes help? And does anyone do this?

Uneless you are circle racing or autocrossing, IMO rear discs are a waste of money. Now power assisted front discs are a nice add and will help immensly in that emergnecy, panic stop. A good set of rear drums is all you need. Let's put that money in the engine!!

Rear shock with helper springs are ok, but I would look for a new set of leaf springs. The Mustang was not designed to take the load of springs against the upper mount area in the trunk. Really tough on the unit body of this car.

A 289 or 302 block with a 331 or 347 stoker kit is the way to go. As Arlie said, a good set of ported or aftermarket heads and either shorty or long tube headers will make a HUGE difference with a small cam and a small increase in carb size. Add an AOD or a 5 speed with lower rear end gears and you are stomping fast!!

The early 347 stroker kit got some bad ink for oil consumption due to the location of the wrist pin in the pistion in relationship to the oil ring. That has been solved now and the 347 is the way to go in my mind. Bigger is better!!!

The long tube header from Stan Johnson of Ford Powertrain Applications fits like a glove and tuck up nice and tight. I have them on both my cars and Stans webiste has pictures of them on the car.

Rob

 

[whodat]

Thanks for the info. The only thing that I did different was put a small retro tach where the clock goes. I grounded it to the steering column. When I return from work in 2 weeks I am going to check it all out again. I hate pulling that thing out too. But learned a shortcut the last time. I will leave the engine stock for now. I have front disc brakes. So I'll stay away from those rear disc brakes. Thanks for the info about the coil overs. I will post my Marti report once I get it scanned. I also bought some original battery cables for it. When I installed it the cable from the selonoid to the starter was still original. So I left it alone for now. What's some good advice for replacing the windshield i.e. should I just let the window shop find a windshield or should I buy from a mustang parts house. I am not concours.

 

[CougarCJ]

I have an app for the fuel gauge thing. Too bad you live so far away.

 

[Ruppstang]

Scott that is a cool piece of Ford service history! Looks like you could test a regular system or one with the low fuel warning. Marty

 

[whodat]

Yesterday I went for a drive. The gauge seems to want to work. The way the tach moves the gauge needle on the fuel gauge moves with it? In two weeks I will remove the bezel and rework the cluster. And move the ground. Any other suggestions would be helpful.