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Old 11/19/2007, 07:34 PM   #14
robert campbell
My Car Details
 

Location: Bremerton Washington
Joined: Apr 07
Posts: 3,646

My Garage
Joe,
Welcome to the site! I have an early January car that is out of sorts with the normal dates for production for a GT/CS. There is another car nearly identical to mine built 2 days later. Both cars are Anniversary Gold and are mentioned in Paul Newitt’s book as a possible early introduction of cars to the Northwest that may have been pulled of the line and assembled later. Its VIN is 8R01J123143.

Your car is certainly earlier than that. I noticed one 67 HCS in the registry that is a June car, but the owner says it has recessed reflector lights. That was a 68 production item. Not sure of the accuracy of this car in the registry, but I will not doubt the owners honesty. So is your car some sort of a “leftover” 67 built in 68, that may be a 67 HCS?? Stranger things have happened!!

So stay patient and order the Marti report. It is another reference to the authenticity of your car and respected by all as the end proof. I myself am not so sure that it is the “end all” of the authenticity of a car. As Rich so properly said, build sheets and original owners have a bit to say on the true authenticity of a car. Try to trace the owners backwards. I am doing that for my car and the other nearly identical one.

This site will tell you the best to our ability of what appears normal, but continue on your quest. Bob and others have painstakeingly researched these cars. You may have some sort of a transition car. Who knows? Other items to look at are paint on the side scoops or trunk and taillight panel that may be under the current paint that are another color. If the hood locks are gone are the receptors still on the radiator brace? Check the sheetmetal codes on various panels. They are all over the place on the fender aprons or in the trough for the trunk lid on the quarters. The steering box has a date tag. Most cars that have never been hurt bad have date codes that are within a couple weeks or the same day. Check under the carpets for a paper build sheet. An abbreviated VIN should be on the back of the block on the ledge behind the intake manifold. The same abbreviated VIN could be on the top of the automatic at the rear of the forward case.

None of this proves authenticity, but if enough stuff starts to NOT match, it may have been assembled. At the same time engines, tranny’s and hoods can be replaced.

Who knows, you may have stumbled onto one rare car? Let the quest begin!! It can be fun in its own right.

Rob
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