Recent content by dpheyes

Rob, Than ks for asking! I was actually working down in Seattle for the last couple of weeks. I'm an IT guy with NOAA. Was going to call and maybe buy you a beer or something, but was just swamped the whole time. :sad: Anyway, I got back on Saturday and promptly went down to the garage and...

Thanks again Rob, I'd love to get the water, oil, and block all heated up, but it's only about 25 degrees in the evening and even with my garage heater running full blast I can't get it above 40! For some reason, the garage never got insulated this past summer - somehow working on my car...

Tim, No, I applied the gaskets with sealer and torqued the manifold on while it cures. I'll retorque after I get it started and it's had a chance to heat up. Doug

Another update: After cleaning everything up, the internal engine parts (crank, cylinders, etc.) were very dry and I could not turn the engine over by hand. I inspected a couple of bearing and could see no damage. I hosed it all down with a spray can of medium weight oil (LPS 3) and let it...

Not yet, but good point - Rob also mentioned it when I talked to him this weekend. I think I'll remove a main cap or two and a couple of rod caps to see if there is damage. Since I never got it started, I'm hopeful that nothing got messed up.

I tried Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket, with high temp RTV in the four corners, but must not have gotten it aligned just right. I'll try RTV the whole way this time. Any suggestions on whether I should use a higher quality gasket set?

Just an update: After spending most of the weekend in the garage and after ruling out some things with Rob's help, I found that the intake manifold was leaking coolant into the crankcase. The water had filled the bottom of the oil pan and the oil pump was pushing nothing but water through the...

Rob, Here are the pictures of the valve train. I'll call you shortly from the scene of the disaster! I had to crop them to make them small enough. Doug

Status Report: Well, now I'm really bummed... I had Friday off, so I spent the day trying some of your suggestions and double checking everything I could think of. Nothing seemed to work. I even had help when an ermine suddenly appeared in the garage and just stared at me! :eek: For those...

I've checked the wiring about 5 times, but you are right about incorrectly assembled harnesses, so I'll check again. But as I mentioned to Jon above, the real prolem is that the engine is so tight I'm having trouble getting it to turn over before it kills the battery, even with the charger...

Jon, I pulled the RH valve cover and hand cranked the engine through several cycles and verified that everything is correct. I have gas and it's firing if I can get it to turn over fast enough, but it's just not doing that. I've even been trying it with my 150 amp charger/starter hooked up...

I've reached the end of my rope and am looking for any ideas to help get my engine started. Here's the situation: New/rebuilt 302/347 stroker Fresh rebuilt Autolite 4300 4V carb New modern style PMGR starter New battery New cables, plugs, wires, distributor, Pertronix, coil, etc. I've had it...

I appreciate the help. Most of the coils have been right where you describe, but I also seen them on both side mounted vertically on the front of the block by the heads. Anyway, my e-mail is dpheyes@ymail.com if you want to send those pics. Thanks again, Doug

Sorry guys, I have the 4300 carb, just got the # mixed up with my dad's '65! I didn't mean to give the impression that I'm trying for historical accuracy, I just want it to run right (and squeal the tires, Rob)! I think I figured out the IMCO vs. Thermactor issue. Please correct me if I'm...

My car came with a 69 351W 4V MT that was installed when the PO blew the factory 302 4V, and there is nothing left from that. I have a "new" rebuilt 347 stroker I've installed. I have astock Autolite 4100 carb which has two vacuum fittings on the front and two on the rear. A distributor...