1968 Trunk CS stripe application

[murf104]

The time has come to begin thinking about installing the CS stripes on the trunk and quarter extensions. I can see that the trunk is curved and the stripe kit is straight so the task will be more difficult. Putting a curve in a straight piece of vinyl means only one thing to me - PUCKERS! So asking for hints of advice on how to do this without ruination of a stripe kit. How does one go about following the curvature of the trunk lid without getting wrinkles in the stripe. This will be the last part of the "stripe adventure" and the attempt will after the final buff of the deck lid. Thanks for any help you may offer.

 

[limelyt]

we did not find any problem installing the strips as curve is very subtle. Had no issues with wrinkles. Just make sure the distance between the top of the trunk and first strip is 7/8"

Gary

 

[Ruppstang]

It can be challenging because you can not use soapy water, you must do it dry to follow the arc. Mark it out and take your time.

 

[dalorzo_f]

I have not started this, but in "pondering" while working the sides I will cut the backing into short sections and work from the center out after hinge-taping in place (in about 20 places to hold the curve!). Remove 6-8" sections of backing at a time, work that flat, then move outward.

I figure that way if it stretches at all I can shift the outside towards the end caps as I go to avoid blips.

 

[dalorzo_f]

Just did it today. Came out "good" but dry did not lie as flat as the GTCS scoops I did wet.

I hinged it marking a dot at the 7/8" down from he edge on the tape at about 6" increments. I split the backing in the middle, folded open about 6" and pulled the backing out the bottom at an angle to continue. Pulled off about 6"-8" of backing untaped it then pulled to each mark and laid it down lightly. Then double checked against the mark. You can lift to realign if you need to before squeegeeing (I used a piece of thick rubber wrapped in a rag). Some small bubbles/blips just refused to come out so think wet might allow it to lie better. The surface was immaculate, buffed and cleaned just prior to applying.

Did the end caps similarly. Folded the ends split the middle and started from there, middle down, then middle up. They went on really well.

 

[franklinair]

Not having done the decklid stripe installation, why can it not be done 'wet' like the rest of the striping??

Neil

 

[dalorzo_f]

I don't know why that comment was made...

 

[Mosesatm]

Probably because you wrote this "Just did it today. Came out "good" but dry did not lie as flat as the GTCS scoops I did wet."

I think Neil is asking why you decided to install the rear stripe dry instead of wet.

 

[dalorzo_f]

Was referring to the prior comment that "you can't do it wet"... post #3 above.

I tried it dry as there are different opinions on the issue on various posts/forums...

 

[murf104]

Richard, sure wish that our trunk lid fit as well as yours. I hesitate to apply the stripes since the lid fits like " socks on a rooster". Thinking about yanking the correct weather strip from the trunk lid and then apply the soft foam Shelby weather strip and see if the fit improves. Ours is just too high compared to the quarter panel end caps and after sitting shut for 6 weeks it hasn't changed any - still hard if not nearly impossible to shut and still way too high. Back to the drawing board on that aspect of assembly!

 

[dalorzo_f]

Well, the lid does (typically, from what I gather) sit up a good 1/4"-3/8" above the end caps if you run a line across the top of the two... fades out with the bright backlights in the booth... but thanks!!

 

[dalorzo_f]

And hood stripes go on today, just went in and lined them up with the painter... pics later today or tomorrow!!