1968 Door Hinge Pins

[gazrox]

Has anybody got a description on how to change the pins and brass bushings on the lower door hinges. Just want to make sure I'm doing this right before I screw something up!

Thanks!

 

[Mosesatm]

Here's an article about it. Not sure if it answers your question, though.

Googling, "Rebuild Mustang Door Hinges" results in a few more articles.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/127_0402_door_hinges_rebuild/index.html

 

[robert campbell]

Get some good qualtiy 1/4 inch drive sockets and extensions if you are doing this with the fenders on. The worst part is putting the door back on and adjusting. At the factory the doors were put on before the front fenders. The fenders are alligned to the door. Easy to chip up your paint. And that will piss you off big time!!

Rob

 

[Perkchiro]

I think this would be a buggar to do with the doors on. I did mine when the car was disassembled. I had to cut them to length and "ping" the ends to keep them in place. Anybody else have any experience with this project?

 

[robert campbell]

Doors must come off! Rebuilding hinges is on the bench once removed from the car and the door. Removing doors and hinges from a car with fenders on is a delicate task to say the least.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

I removed the lower hinge assembly with the door & fender in place. With the door partially open and supported by a floor jack to prevent the door from sagging when the lower hinge was removed. It's not easy, but do-able. (The inside kick panel will have to be removed so you can position & manipulate the plate that retains the bolts that go thru the side panel.)
The job is not easy, and it's awkward reaching the hinge bolts with the door partially open, and then putting the overhauled hinge back on. But, it's less work than pulling the fender.

Neil

 

[nfrntau]

i did mine with them off of the car. Don't forget to grease inside the brass bushings before you press in the pin. It will help keep them from squeeking in the future.
If your going to leave the fender on, I recommend you tape off the edges of your doors and fenders just in case. Cheap insurance.

 

[66hcs-conv]

For all the trouble of replaceing the pins, etc. I just put all new hinges on.

Ya have to take the old ones off anyway to replace the pins, and I figured the old hinges might be worn in other places so I put new everything on.

I taped the heck out of the back portion of the fender and the leading edge of the door.

Just my .02 worth.

Dave

 

[robert campbell]

I removed the lower hinge assembly with the door & fender in place. With the door partially open and supported by a floor jack to prevent the door from sagging when the lower hinge was removed. It's not easy, but do-able. (The inside kick panel will have to be removed so you can position & manipulate the plate that retains the bolts that go thru the side panel.)
The job is not easy, and it's awkward reaching the hinge bolts with the door partially open, and then putting the overhauled hinge back on. But, it's less work than pulling the fender.

Neil

Neil,
Big "Duh" on Rob. What a great idea. Do one at a time!!! Would be way easier!

This is why we call you the "godfather"!!

Rob

 

[franklinair]

I really prefer Dave's concept of replacing the complete hinge assembly (one at a time), but some don't want to spend the $$. I helped a fellow with replacing the pins & bushings, but on MY car it would be the complete hinge.

Neil

 

[CALIF GIRL]

We replaced the hinges with the fenders on, one at a time. But that was before my car was painted. I think if I had to do it now I would definately tape the door and fender to keep from chipping the paint.

 

[gazrox]

I've got the doors off as they need rust repair anyway. I might just go with new hinges - my worry is that since there is absolutely nothing left of the brass bushings, the hinge may be flogged out anyway.

I've been beating the s**t out of the end of the hinge pin with a flat-end punch but its going nowhere. Lots of swearing and cursing doesn't seem to work either! It looks like the end of the pin was bevelled out to hold it in place so I might try cutting it and then beat the living s**t out of it!

Thanks for your ideas.

 

[franklinair]

Yes- one end IS peaned over as a retaining measure. Grind it off and punch it out.

Neil

 

[rvrtrash]

On mine, I ground the end off and then drove the pin out. There are no brass bushings in the hinge when it's new. The bushings are used to return the hole diameter to the proper size if it's worn. You have to chuck up the hinge and drill the hole bigger, and then press in the bushings, then replace the pin. Makes it just like new. The pin is usually longer than needed so you cut the pin to the length you want and then peen it to keep it from backing out. Definately more work than buying a new hinge, but a lot cheaper and you get to keep "original" parts. It all depends on what kind of tools you have available and how handy you are.

Steve

 

[robert campbell]

Ditto Steve,
A bit of work, but the bushing seems to last a long time. and again the original hinge. Nothing like high speed grinders and drill presses. ARRR AARRR. Tool time!

Rob

 

[gazrox]

Finally got the pins out! Lots of wear on the hinges so we'll see if the brass bushings do the trick. These must have been done once before as there were brass bushings in there but wasn't really anything left of them.

Thanks for your help - knew I could depend on you guys!

 

[gazrox]

Too much wear - the brass bushings spill freely and there is still lots of slop.

New hinges on order tomorrow!