1968 Brake Line leak

[x-codegtcs]

OK - I am bleeding the brakes and it is taking for ever. I found I was leaking at the distribution block. I have tightened the heck out of the lines and worried I will strip the D-block. Is teflon tape/"liquid" in order here?

 

[CougarCJ]

OK - I am bleeding the brakes and it is taking for ever. I found I was leaking at the distribution block. I have tightened the heck out of the lines and worried I will strip the D-block. Is teflon tape/"liquid" in order here?

Is it leaking from the switch?

Did you just replace the brake lines? Did you use stainless? prone to leaking, hard to get the flares just right.

You may need to rebuild the distribution block and valve, O-rings may have went bad.

 

[x-codegtcs]

Scott - thanks for your quick reply! I should have been more specific...brake lines are not stainless as far as I can remember (bought them a while ago). D-block is rebuilt already; leaking out of the rear brake line to d-block fitting. Not sure where the leak is from at the fitting (through the tube and nut - or through the d-block and nut). I am pulling the master and booster today and going to get this fixed before I go to bed...I am going to start with just loosening and retightening...and go from there.

 

[CougarCJ]

Make sure that the shuttle is centered in the distribution block.

 

[Ruppstang]

Loosing and retightening is the best solution. I have had some that I have had to cycle several time before it seated. You were wise in not over tightening.
Marty

 

[dalorzo_f]

+1 on Marty's suggestion. Only one place the lines can leak, from the flare to the seat. Cycle them a few times and usually it takes care of it.... if they do not seal pull the block and inspect the seats. A light spin of scotch brite (soft) can clean them up a bit.

If dinged/damaged they can be impossible to seal, and unfortunately time for a new one if the damage is such to make the flare not able to seal/seat properly.....

 

[x-codegtcs]

Thanks guys! I think that was the problem. As I was cycling, they were noticeably progressing in the seating...UGH! A lot of heart ache because I broke a wrench and just never finished up and FORGOT!!! I was checking for D-block plunger centering and found my switch is not working...could have sworn I checked that back when...What is that stuff...ginko something that helps with memory? Maybe I just need some ritalin....

 

[TexAg]

Bringing up an old thread, but I too have a leaking brake line. The problem I now have is that someone (me) apparently over-tightened. I haven't been able to get it loose, and now to make matters worse, I've completely rounded the nut.

Does anybody have any suggestions on loosening a rounded off brake line fitting?

 

[Mosesatm]

Can you remove the entire thing so you can work on a bench or is it stuck in the car?

 

[CougarCJ]

Vise Grips

 

[robert campbell]

dynamite.....

 

[somethingspecial]

Vise Grips

+1, Vise Grips always worked for me, and with my luck, they always were stuck and rounded. LOL

 

[Mosesatm]

Line wrenches, aka flare nut wrenches, are a great investment.
Of course, if the fitting is already rounded your only options are probably Vice Grips or a hack saw.

 

[TexAg]

Thanks, all. I like the dynamite idea best. Yes, I have the line wrenches but it was stuck so bad that they stripped out anyway.

I've tried the vice grips, but the distribution block is still in the car. It just continues to strip off pieces of metal, and I have a hard time getting any leverage. I guess I may just have to cut out the whole thing.

Do you guys know if I can just get the "driver side front brake line", or do I have to buy an entire kit? On my last car i just bent my own lines, but i'd like to keep this one original.

 

[Ruppstang]

Classic tube will make any line you want.
Marty

 

[dalorzo_f]

Cut the damaged line if needed and pull the block. Put the rounded nut (or even a non rounded) in a bench vice and use a crescent wrench (with some padding) on the block to turn the nut. Never failed. (but hard to get to the middle one)

Or you can put the block in a vice, put on a flare wrench and tap it with a block of wood. Shock the nut loose. Never rounded on using that method either.

For stubborn ones I've also found a product called Reducture H-72 as a rustbreaker. Either its the best I've ever used or the last few dozen times I've pulled apart are somehow magically different than other similar parts.