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Old 04/15/2011, 07:33 PM   #1
obwan93001
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Location: Ventura County, CA
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Plans for drivetrain and parts list...

So here is what I currently have planned to do to the drive train in my CS (all parts in hand but I say currently b/c we all know how things change). After so much time spent scouring the web for deals I am happy to finally have almost all I need to freshen up my engine and rebuild the trans.:
  • Pull and clean the '66 289 and repaint to stock color.
  • Install new Dorman brass freeze plug set.
  • Install new stock oil pump (Clevite P68) and driveshaft (Melling IS68).
  • Replace as many gaskets and seals from FelPro full gasket set (FS8548PT-16).
  • Install slightly used '65 289HP heads (Milled and port matched w/RPM intake).
  • Install used intake manifold (Edelbrock Performer RPM 7121).
  • Install slightly used Edelbrock 1405 600cfm manual choke 4v carb.
  • Install new pushrods (Comp Cams High Energy 7831-16).
  • Install new pushrod guide plates (Comp Cams 4816-8).
  • Install slightly used hydraulic lifters (Comp Cams High Energy 832-16).
  • Install new performance hydraulic flat tappet camshaft (Comp Cams High Energy 268H 31-218-2).
  • Install new Dura-Bond FP-18 HP Camshaft Bearing Set.
  • Install new timing chain/gear set (Comp Cams Magnum double roller chain/gear set 2120).
  • Install new ARP stainless steel hex head engine accessory bolt kit 554-9601.
  • Install new APR chromemoly black oxide hex head cylinder head bolt kit 154-3601.
  • Install new Sanderson FF3 steel shorty headers.
  • Install new Magnaflow stainless steel 2.5" dual exhaust system 15816.
  • Install new Lakewood Suspension Muscle motor mount set 24094.
  • Pull, clean and disassemble C4 trans.
  • Rebuild using new master rebuild kit w/Kevlar forward band.
  • Install new TransGo reprogramming shift kit 47-2.
  • Install new Sonnax billet purple anodized C4 "C" ratio servo kit K13259C.
  • Install new Prothane polyurethane transmission mount 6-1605-BL.
  • Install NOS Ford driveshaft u-joints.
While the engine/trans are out I'll be cleaning and repainting the engine bay. In regards to the used heads, they supposedly had about 100mi on them after being rebuilt but I do plan on removing the valves to clean them up as some have surface rust/dirty and I want to install new valve stem guides/seals and freeze plugs for peace of mind. The heads do have some rusty water deposits in the water chambers, should I just ignore that and worry about tanking them clean later when I do the engine rebuild? My thoughts are if I'm taking the valves and springs off it might be worth it to have them tanked clean anyways. I'd have to ask around about that to get a cost, I really don't want to spend anymore right now but if it's not very expensive then might be worth it, I want to repaint them from black to blue anyhow. I think I've covered everything for what I want to do, again, not touching the bottom end unless I need to re-ring but w/the compression numbers I got I shouldn't have to right now. A complete rebuild will be done when time and money permit. Oh, the only thing I'm not sure about yet is a torque converter and if I should get one w/stall and if so how much, my thoughts are 2000-2300 stall? For the time being I'm sticking w/the stock 2.79 ratio rear gears and will address that in the future. So wish I could afford a Gear Vendors overdrive system but haahahha, not anytime soon. That money will go towards paint and body, for now I"m restoring things from the inside out! Had to explain to someone the other day that by working from the inside out I can get alot more done moneywise than I can by starting w/paint and body. Plus when I get there I want that to be the only thing I'm working and worrying about on the CS. The paint is the icing on the cake so I want to be able to concentrate on getting all that done right. Anyhow, don't ask why I posted just wanted to get my list out and hear some thoughts from you all. None of my buddies are car guys so most of my thoughts are shared between me, myself and I and you all. IK IK, get new buddies! LOL

Oh, in regards to sealers and gasket makers I have the following:
  • Permatex Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
  • Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant
  • Permatex The Right Stuff® Gasket Maker
  • Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant
Thanks and hope everyone has a great weekend, the weather is finally nice, no rain in the forecast!

Oscar

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/...3&d=1198481108
1968 GT/CS 289-2v V8 AT, PS, drum brakes, tinted windows, Diamond Blue, black stripes, standard Black bucket interior. MCA#:70104
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Old 04/15/2011, 07:42 PM   #2
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I stopped reading when I saw, "used lifters".
Please don't even consider installing used lifters for any reason at any time under any circumstance.

OK, back to reading....
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Old 04/15/2011, 08:00 PM   #3
obwan93001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
I stopped reading when I saw, "used lifters".
Please don't even consider installing used lifters for any reason at any time under any circumstance.

OK, back to reading....

LOL I was wondering if anyone would pick that up. I got them for $20 and were used on a couple of dyno runs then removed per the shop I got them from. I looked at each one and all appear to be in near new shape but I'm no expert. If I really should go w/new ones then I'll spring for the $90 or so to get them but thought I'd save a chunk if I could use the ones I got. Per Comp Cams description: "...The pushrod seat is made of a special powdered metal iron alloy that is heat-treated for strength and wear resistance." and "...COMP Cams® High Energy™ Hydraulic Lifters also contain a longer piston than conventional hydraulic lifters, which provides more load bearing surface and increases lifter longevity." My thinking was if they're build to last then a dyno run or two couldn't have hurt them but if I should get new then I will.

Thanks,

Oscar

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/...3&d=1198481108
1968 GT/CS 289-2v V8 AT, PS, drum brakes, tinted windows, Diamond Blue, black stripes, standard Black bucket interior. MCA#:70104
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Old 04/15/2011, 08:26 PM   #4
obwan93001
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Forgot to mention that the seller stated these were used in dyno runs by Comp Cams. That also figured into me thinking I might be able to use them and reading some good feedback from a couple of the buyers who'd bought and used them already. But again I ain't no eggspert so...

Thanks for the input!

Oscar

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/...3&d=1198481108
1968 GT/CS 289-2v V8 AT, PS, drum brakes, tinted windows, Diamond Blue, black stripes, standard Black bucket interior. MCA#:70104
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Old 04/15/2011, 08:38 PM   #5
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I'm not an expert either and I only know what I've read and been told over the years. Normal lifters are $3 each so a set of 16 ($48) seems to be good insurance against possibly replacing the cam and all the associated gaskets and fluids after 1000 miles.
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Old 04/16/2011, 08:20 AM   #6
rvrtrash
 
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I wouldn't use used lifters either, because you want them to break in/seat to the camshaft. I also don't usually take any "seller stories" at face value. If they were still usable, why wouldn't Comp Cams sell them at a discount on their website? At best, they probably tossed them in the metal bin and someone fished them out. At worse, someone didn't break in their engine correctly and destroyed the cam. Sorry bud. I'd spend the money on new ones and not risk wiping the lobes off the cam.

Steve

The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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Old 04/16/2011, 11:11 AM   #7
franklinair
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Good advice from 2 knowledgable guys. Go with the 'new', as they suggested.

Neil
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Old 04/16/2011, 12:37 PM   #8
obwan93001
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Thanks guys, I knew I'd get some sound advise from you all. It has now been decided, new lifters it is. Going to go w/the same Comp Cams lifters to go w/the other Comp Cams parts I already have. Guess I have 16 cool looking little paperweights or I can put them up on fleabay for $20. My conscience tells me not to pass onto another unsuspecting fool however.

Any suggestions on a torque converter? Per my cam's specs it looks like I should go w/something that has approx 2200rpm of stall, anyone agree? Any other comments and suggestions on my list above are welcomed, thanks to those of you who already have!

Oscar

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/...3&d=1198481108
1968 GT/CS 289-2v V8 AT, PS, drum brakes, tinted windows, Diamond Blue, black stripes, standard Black bucket interior. MCA#:70104
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Old 04/16/2011, 01:34 PM   #9
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Since you are tightening up everything but the cylinders you MAY experience some blowby past the rings.
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Old 04/16/2011, 04:31 PM   #10
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Agree on the rings, as you're tearing it down that far to pull the reciprocating assembly and check/hone the bores and replace the rings is not much more work. Could also do the mains and finish it all on one go, not a lot of work in pulling the crank and pistons... that's about all you need to add to get the "complete" rebuild???

Me, I'd consider doing the engine all the way, and postpone the trans, if possible, if money was tight. Finish the engine as with all the work you are doing do you realy want to tear it all back down in a year or three? Detail it and engine bay, then you can just pull the trans later and not mess with the engine?

JMHO
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Old 04/17/2011, 04:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalorzo_f View Post
Agree on the rings, as you're tearing it down that far to pull the reciprocating assembly and check/hone the bores and replace the rings is not much more work. Could also do the mains and finish it all on one go, not a lot of work in pulling the crank and pistons... that's about all you need to add to get the "complete" rebuild???

Me, I'd consider doing the engine all the way, and postpone the trans, if possible, if money was tight. Finish the engine as with all the work you are doing do you realy want to tear it all back down in a year or three? Detail it and engine bay, then you can just pull the trans later and not mess with the engine?

JMHO
+++1 Marty

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Old 04/17/2011, 12:08 PM   #12
obwan93001
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Thanks, guess I'll step back to the drawing board again so I can figure out the balance of the things I'll need to make it a complete rebuild. I have several machine shops, one very well recommended, local to me so will have to decide what I can clean and what to have tanked and whatnot. Then what will need machine work, hopefully not much.

The blowby the rings issue had crossed my mind too as well as wondering how much more I really needed to do to make it a complete rebuild, your replies helped me off the fence, thanks! It runs good for now so I don't have much of a problem postponing things for a little bit. The other thing that was starting to weigh heavy was the thought of doing this all over again in the near future and whether I should just do it all now. I'd planned on doing it that way due to my budget but if it's not that much more then I'll just go ahead w/ihe rebuilds. Hey, I have a full gasket set already!

Oscar

http://californiaspecial.com/forums/...3&d=1198481108
1968 GT/CS 289-2v V8 AT, PS, drum brakes, tinted windows, Diamond Blue, black stripes, standard Black bucket interior. MCA#:70104
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Old 04/17/2011, 03:36 PM   #13
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I would agree to do the whole engine at once and do it correctly. If you just can't swing it, I'd go 100% on the bottom end and use the old heads. It's easier to pull the heads off and have them worked over than to pull the whole engine out. Same with the transmission. You can do that at a later date.

Steve

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