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Old 08/02/2010, 07:43 PM   #1
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Flywheel to crank seal

Hey all,

For all you engine mechs out there: What's the best sealer to use when attaching the flywheel to the crank?

Seems like a pretty sloppy design. As an engineer, I'd never design such an obvious invitation for leaks as bolt holes all the way through the end of the crank. But then again I wasn't there at the time either.

I'm about to bolt this puppy back together and put it in the car. She hasn't had an engine in her for almost 4 years! I'm getting pretty jazzed!
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Old 08/02/2010, 08:01 PM   #2
GT/CS S Code
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Thumbs up Thumbs up!

I really like the body and stripe colour combination ... but then I am just a LITTLE bit biased!

The engine is looking great too!

I may have passed my "best before" date, but I haven't reached my "expiry" date!
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Old 08/04/2010, 12:19 AM   #3
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there isn't any sealer used between the flywhell and the crank.
there is an oil seal on that end of the crank that keeps the oil from leaking around the crankshaft. the oil seal is in the rear main cap.
did you assemble the engine yourself???

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Old 08/04/2010, 11:06 AM   #4
robert campbell
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Permatex brown "form a gasket" is what I use. It is critical to use a good quality thread sealer on the flywheel bolts of the older engines. The boltholes in the crank are drilled through and create a path from the oil pan to the flywheel. Clutch gets a nice lube job and then no "workeee" so well!

Makes sure the threads are clean an oil free on the bolts and the crankshaft threads in the holes. I try to set this up and torque immediately. The forma a gasket works a bit like oil to provide a consistent torque on all 6 bolts.

Don't forget to put the forward shield on!! Someone I know has done this a couple times and then took the freshly torqued flywheel right back off..... Hmmmm.... who would that be? Gosh Rob again!!

I always use a thread sealer on the head bolts. On custom builds with high compression I use an ARP stud kit and seal them in. Then I can use a low friction base oil on the head "nuts" to apply consistent torque. I even use thread sealer on the timing cover bolts into the front of the engine. Some are drilled through and that is why the long bolts are so rusty when you disassemble and old engine.

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Old 08/04/2010, 09:37 PM   #5
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Thanks Rob! That's the info I was looking for. I guess I should have been more specific about needing to seal the bolts.

I had the engine built for me (long block) by a company in Spokane. 347 stroker for a J code car.

I didn't forget the shield, but I did put it together with a shield and bellhousing for a 163-tooth flywheel when I had a 157-tooth one. But I have the right shield and flywheel now, so onward I go.
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