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Old 09/18/2007, 06:22 PM   #1
davidathans
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How do you pull the Control Valve off the Pitman Arm?

how do i get the control valve off the pitman arm?
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Old 09/18/2007, 06:57 PM   #2
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http://mustangsplus.com/tech/shockan...shockfall1.htm

See the end of page 2.
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Old 09/18/2007, 06:57 PM   #3
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There are a couple of ways David.
The first is to get a pitman arm removal tool and do it by the book.
The second is to use a 5 pound sledge. Loosen the nut to the last few screws (so when it comes loose it doesn't hit the floor). After you loosen the screw nail the end with a hammer from side. The impact will seperate the two parts. DO NOT hit the end with the threads on it as IT WILL mess them up rendering you a piece of trash.
I used this method to remove everything on my front end. Just watch your swing and be careful where you hit. You want to make sure to hit at the point where the taper fits through.
There may be other ways but these are the ones I know of.
Good luck.

You may make it without friends; but with them, you can do anything.
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Old 09/18/2007, 06:59 PM   #4
robert campbell
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David,

They make a special tool that is a "straddle" wedge or tie rod/ball joint removal tool. It works ok.

Most front end guys will loosen the castle nut and back it off to ensure in is not tight. If you can get an assistant to use a pry bar to put a “pry” against the joint while simultaneously hitting the side of the pitman arm right on the joint with a heavy (1 and ˝ pound to 2 pound) “slugging” (code short handle and heavy) hammer it usually breaks away very easily from the taper. I use this method on ball joints and tie rod ends. Usually a few good hits and they break loose. Yes it does scar the paint or powder coating. My cars have none of that.

The straddle wedge by itself usually takes a lot of hitting if you don’t whack the side as described. I have two sizes of the wedge. Use the wedge and get a bit of a tension and one whack on the side and you are in business.

Rob
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Old 09/18/2007, 08:04 PM   #5
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David, The advice given here is great. If you have a O'Reilly Automotive near you they rent specialty tools for free. A pitman arm puller would be the best choice. I've done both methods using a sledge and the limited control factor with a sledge leaves some risk of damaging surrounding parts. It's tough lining up a sledge hammer under your car too. If it was a junk car, no harm really, but with your car, protect it as much as you can. Just my 2 cents.

Steve in Missouri
1968 Candyapple Red J Code California Special
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Old 09/18/2007, 10:25 PM   #6
davidathans
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thanks for the advice guys...sounds like i dont have the right tool to do the job...which is pretty depressing because i spent alot of time on my back getting really dirty and i wont be able to fix my car myself

i was trying to remove the control valve because my mustang parts guy asked me if it was the big hole or the small hole...and i had no idea so i was going to remove it from the car and bring it with me to get the correct part

its such a pain to work on a car yourself when you dont have the right tools and the car is just jacked up in your garage and you have to get on the floor and your wrench is too long and your trying to squeeze your arm through some small hole to get leverage on the wrench...

i spent about an hour trying to get the pin out of the nut on the pitman arm...and the hose that comes out of the top of the control valve is nearly impossible to get off with the control valve on the pitman arm...

im frustrated as hell and im mad that i have to spend alot of money just to get my car back on the road...all because of a tiny leak...gggrrr

Last edited by davidathans; 09/19/2007 at 02:26 PM..
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Old 09/19/2007, 02:32 PM   #7
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here are some pictures from my nightmares

the picture on the far right is where im at right now
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Old 09/19/2007, 03:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidathans View Post
here are some pictures from my nightmares

the picture on the far right is where im at right now
...David, I used a standard three prong gear puller from the top of the tapered stud (3-fingered) down to the base of the pitman arm (using the nut to protect the end threads). A combination of pressure from the puller and tapping on the wedges popped it loose... I didn't have the headers in the way, however...

Tim
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Old 09/19/2007, 07:45 PM   #9
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I believe Autozone let's you "borrow" tools as well.

Rich

1968 Acapulco Blue GT/CS 289 * 1996 Red GT Convertible *
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Old 09/19/2007, 09:27 PM   #10
robert campbell
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David,
Have you given up and taken it to a shop? I may have a couple more suggestions.

Rob
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Old 09/19/2007, 10:21 PM   #11
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I think that we will find out that the big hole - small hole valve was only during the 1967 model year.

I can simpathize with you on your frustration. Been there done that.

When I go to strip out a car, I generally drop the whole steering section of the power steering as an assembly.

Steering box, drag link, valve, cylinder, and idler arm.

Of course I have to separate the tie rods from the drag link.

Everything takes about 30 minutes. It really helps if the engine is out first.

Much easier to get the shear pin out of the drag link and use a separater on a work bench. Hose removal and installation too.
From the pictures it looks like you also need a new cylinder boot.

Doesn't take long to detail the steering components either. Fresh cotter pins, service the steering box with grease, inspect the rag joint.

Scott Behncke
1968 GT/CS 302-4V Honors flysis income beezis onches nobis inob keesis
West Coast Classic Cougar A good source for Mustang mechanical parts too.
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Old 09/19/2007, 11:09 PM   #12
davidathans
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert campbell View Post
David,
Have you given up and taken it to a shop? I may have a couple more suggestions.

Rob
im pretty much going to take it to a shop tomorrow...im just going to face the fact that im not going to be able to fix this myself on my back trying to wack something with a hammer...its nearly impossible because i cant even get any leverage on the hammer if i were to try and i know i would just screw it up worse...i think this job is best done with the car on a lift up in the air instead of me on my back

thanks cougarcj about the needing a new boot for the cylinder too

i have never touched the steering box...maybe i should have them service it when they replace the control valve, hoses, and put on the cylinder boot

what happens to the steering box over time if you never service it??...i've been wondering about this for quite some time because i have replaced just about everything except the steering box and i dont want the steering to just break on me one day and i wont be able to steer
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Old 09/20/2007, 08:23 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidathans View Post
what happens to the steering box over time if you never service it??...i've been wondering about this for quite some time because i have replaced just about everything except the steering box and i dont want the steering to just break on me one day and i wont be able to steer

The grease dries up and the gears wear themselves out. The steering gets sloppy and in extreme cases you could loose all steering control. I'd pop the cover and put new grease in since you're working on it anyway. Mine had to be completely rebuilt-it was to far gone.

Steve

The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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Old 09/20/2007, 10:05 AM   #14
davidathans
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the steering on my car has always been loose...i always thought it was because it was a ball and joint type steering system as opposed to rack & pinion....but is it that the gears are wearing themselves out in the steering box and thats why the steering is loose?
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Old 09/20/2007, 10:12 AM   #15
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The grease dries up and the gears wear themselves out. The steering gets sloppy and in extreme cases you could loose all steering control. I'd pop the cover and put new grease in since you're working on it anyway. Mine had to be completely rebuilt-it was to far gone.

Steve
...I agree. My yellow Mach w/ 221K miles now goes down the highway in a way simular to flying a small airplane with a severe crosswind. I've never heard of a box failing completely without plenty of warning, however...

Tim
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