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Old 07/28/2007, 09:48 AM   #1
kkus
 

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how to identify gt/cs ??

Hello, i'm new here.. this is my first thread ..
i'd like to know whether we can know a 68 mustang is gt/cs without Marti report or not ???? If i've just VIN , can i know from that??

Thanks..
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Old 07/28/2007, 10:00 AM   #2
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You cannot tell a true GT/CS without either an original bill of sale or a Marti Report. The VIN will not tell you it is a GT/CS. The inexpensive Marti Report (I think it is $17) will tell you if it is a GT/CS. Casey

1968 GT/CS on cover and featured article, "Gold Rush", in Mustang Times, February 2006
1966 Convertible featured article, "Sweet '66' ", in Mustang Times, January 2008
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Old 07/28/2007, 10:04 AM   #3
kkus
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by case12 View Post
You cannot tell a true GT/CS without either an original bill of sale or a Marti Report. The VIN will not tell you it is a GT/CS. The inexpensive Marti Report (I think it is $17) will tell you if it is a GT/CS. Casey
how long do i have to wait for that kind of report ?
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Old 07/28/2007, 10:52 AM   #4
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I don't remember the cost, but I had a basic Marti report Faxed to me same day. (Mon thru Fri).
Neil Hoppe
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Old 07/28/2007, 01:38 PM   #5
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There are some red flags that could tell you if the car may not be a GT/CS or HCS. If you can post some pictures of the car we will be happy to let you know if we see anything that may be of concern.
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Old 07/29/2007, 04:33 PM   #6
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what's the serial no and ideally would you have pictures?

it\'s great to own a 68\' ......live free or die
Sam
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Old 07/30/2007, 10:15 AM   #7
BroadwayBlue
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Marti will fax the report to you .. I think it's an extra $10, they also mail a copy in addition.

As everyone said get the Marti report to be 100% sure.

If the VIN doesn't start with 8R01 there is no way it can be a GT/CS
8R01 indicates a 1968 Mustang Coupe built in the San Jose, CA plant.

But if it does start with 8R01 then it could be but you still need the Marti to be sure.

I suppose an original bill of sale is helpful, but with technoligally today ... easily forged if someone was out to scam in my opinion.
And as posted previous if you have the Vin and pictures that's helpful.

Rich

1968 Acapulco Blue GT/CS 289 * 1996 Red GT Convertible *
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Old 08/01/2007, 04:44 PM   #8
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Im hoping to take a look a a GT\CS this weekend (will post pictures to forum). Currently there is no Marti report and family owned since new in 68 and (even has bill of sale). Will need the VIN and doorplate info.

Per some feedback on the forum Ill look for the points of review to ensure GT\CS authentic. (VIN#, the door plate, scoops, the base for the hood bolts, wire harness assembly, grill, and lenses).

Aside from that anything else in particular to look for? Rust or problems spots? Back trunk wheel well? Floorpans?? Any help on what to look at interior\exterior\engine would be appreciated. Original miles listed is 88K.

RobKat
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Old 08/01/2007, 06:26 PM   #9
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Where are you located? Perhaps someone from this site is nearby and would lend a hand when checking out the car.
Neil Hoppe
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Old 08/02/2007, 03:14 PM   #10
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Sounds good, as long as it doesnt result in bidding war.

Im in San Francisco and car located East Bay. PM offline if interested in checking out would love to learn from the sensei. Got a call out to the owner.
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Old 08/02/2007, 03:34 PM   #11
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In my short time of being on this site, I have found that the members are knowledgeable & helpful. Don't think you would have to be worried about any bidding war. Its a good resource that you could/should use.
Neil Hoppe
P.S. - I'm too far away (NC) or I'd offer my 2 cents worth. I'm not that experienced on CS's, but I DO know '68's. The 1st test I do is pour a glass of water into the cowl and see where it runs out. If it runs onto the carpet inside, you've got a cowl repair on your hands and possible bad floorpans.
Good luck.
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Old 08/02/2007, 06:14 PM   #12
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Inspect the edges of the back fender opening very carefully. Lots of bubbles mean lots of rust repair. The most common areas from the top are the bottom of the rear quarter panels behind the tire and the front lower corner of the doors. If it is minor, it is not to expensive. If you see huge holes, it gets spendy. Get under the car and look at the areas where you feet sit when riding. Lots of holes or metal riveted in usually means floor pan replacement. Cheaper than quarter rust as it is not needed to be smooth and pretty.

As was said, pour lots of water in the vents between the hood and the bottom of the windshield. It should run out by your feet just behind the front tire. Have some one look in the interior by the brake pedal on the left side or the place where you feet sit on the right side when you pour the wter with a flashlight. If water comes in the interior, you have cowl repair. It can get spendy.

Engines, trannys, brakes, and suspension are cheap when compared to rust repair. look it over carefully and get under it or get it on a rack. It will tell you alot!!

Rob
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Old 08/03/2007, 11:20 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info and specifics! This will definitely help!

RobKat
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