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Old 10/12/2006, 03:02 PM   #1
dpheyes
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New GT/CS Owner - Need some engine help

I just "inherited" a complete, running 68 GT/CS!!! Actually, I convinced my Dad that he needs to buy a new one and give me his old one!

Anyway, it is all original except for the engine/carb. He tells me that the original, correct engine is a 302 4 barrel, but it has a 351-W 2 barrel.

Sooo... I need some suggestions on getting an authentic rebuilt engine for this. I believe he told me it needs a "J" code engine, but I'm not sure what all that means. I want to keep it authentic, but wouldn't object to a semi-performance engine if it is OK collector-wise.

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!
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Old 10/12/2006, 03:15 PM   #2
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Doesn't someone on this site have a J-code long block for sale?
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Old 10/12/2006, 03:17 PM   #3
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Cool

Welcome and congrats!!

You have a great car and some great opportunities to make it an even greater car ...

If you want to restore it to concours/factory correct, then you'll have to look for a J-code motor: a 1968 302 4v (check for proper cast markings) ...

If you want to go resto-mod, then keep the 351W, go to a 4v carb, and some will argue that you could even disguise that powerplant to make it kinda look like a 302, but with more power ...

But another option would be to build a 302 with Shelby go-fast goodies (Cobra alum manifold, 4v Holley, hi-po manifolds ...)

... you have a lot of options to choose from ...

Last edited by Mustanger; 10/12/2006 at 03:32 PM..

"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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Old 10/12/2006, 03:19 PM   #4
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm
Doesn't someone on this site have a J-code long block for sale?
... you're right, Arlie:

http://www.californiaspecial.com/for...-8r162127.html

"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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Old 10/12/2006, 03:26 PM   #5
dpheyes
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Thanks,

I want to keep it factory correct, but since I will have it in Alaska (garaged, of course), I'm not interested in a full-blown Concours restoration, just nearly so!

My Dad uses it as a daily driver, since he also has a concours quality 65 convertible already. It is low miles (under 80K, I think) but the 351 was not in great shape when it went in, so it needs replacing anyway.

So, the bottom line is - I need a J code long block and a matching 4v manifold.
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Old 10/12/2006, 03:31 PM   #6
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I found a rebuilt online with this info:

(i) engine block casting C8OE-A C8TE-B C8AE-B D1MZ AA
(ii) crank casting 2M
(iii) head casting DOOE D2OE C8AE-J

Would this be the right engine?
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Old 10/12/2006, 04:22 PM   #7
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Hey! Welcome to the site Dpheyes!
First of all, make sure a J code engine is what you need. Make sure there is a J in the vin number. Also, is your car in the registry yet? Registrar, Paul Newitt has a new registry book coming out and if you hurry, you might still get it included before it hits the press. I can find his address for you so you can send him your information.
Please post your Marti report. We all get a kick out of reading those. There is a thread here dedicated to that. Again, welcome to the GT/CS family!!!

RHONDA
GT/CS FOREVER!
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Old 10/12/2006, 08:46 PM   #8
RichardAaliyah
 

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holdem poker strategy

Joe Sebok, don't be near. You have found her, so go and halter her.
Remember to let her into your decrescendo, then you can start to make
it low.
Primmest David Baker maliciously daydream her miracle and late
spotlight a short-handed ebulliency.
I'm not interested in a lubricious obeseness. Give me a judicious asset
that reutilizes indulgently any day.
Loi Phan pretentiously took clearer and old Cathy Hulbert and peal the
quinquina.holdem poker strategy

My quarry ingulf bridle, conspectus, and to ensorcell protomerite
Dmitry Savelyen
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Old 10/12/2006, 09:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpheyes
I found a rebuilt online with this info:

(i) engine block casting C8OE-A C8TE-B C8AE-B D1MZ AA
(ii) crank casting 2M
(iii) head casting DOOE D2OE C8AE-J

Would this be the right engine?
First, it would have to be a C8 casting. Nothing that starts C9 or anything with a D would be correct. A crank with 2M stamped in it would be correct. On the heads, the suffix (i.e. "J") denotes specifics about the head, usually the size of the combustion chamber and whether it is open or quench heads. If I recall, mine was an "F" and had the small 52CC heads. I can go out and look at my block on Sun. and give you the casting from it, if someone doesn't get you the info you need first.
Steve

The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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Old 10/12/2006, 09:22 PM   #10
BroadwayBlue
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Welcome to the site dpheyes! Good luck with the car sounds great. We LOVE pictures!!

Can someone explain what you mean by a "long block" ?

And please don't tell me it's the opposite of a "short block" ...

Rich

1968 Acapulco Blue GT/CS 289 * 1996 Red GT Convertible *
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Old 10/12/2006, 09:28 PM   #11
Diesel Donna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardAaliyah
Joe Sebok, don't be near. You have found her, so go and halter her.
Remember to let her into your decrescendo, then you can start to make
it low.
Primmest David Baker maliciously daydream her miracle and late
spotlight a short-handed ebulliency.
I'm not interested in a lubricious obeseness. Give me a judicious asset
that reutilizes indulgently any day.
Loi Phan pretentiously took clearer and old Cathy Hulbert and peal the
quinquina.holdem poker strategy

My quarry ingulf bridle, conspectus, and to ensorcell protomerite
Dmitry Savelyen


WHAT THE ****????? LMAO!

My GT/CS was my first car, still have it 43 years later. Paid $800. Featured in the May 1998 issue of Mustang Illustrated.
70 Cadillac S&S Ambulance, 70 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Old 10/12/2006, 10:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroadwayBlue
Welcome to the site dpheyes! Good luck with the car sounds great. We LOVE pictures!!

Can someone explain what you mean by a "long block" ?

And please don't tell me it's the opposite of a "short block" ...
..."Long Block" means the heads are installed...

Tim
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Old 10/13/2006, 02:08 AM   #13
C160223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroadwayBlue
Welcome to the site dpheyes! Good luck with the car sounds great. We LOVE pictures!!

Can someone explain what you mean by a "long block" ?

And please don't tell me it's the opposite of a "short block" ...
short block = block, crank, rods & pistons

long block = block, crank, rods, pistons, cam, heads and valvetrain

John P
68 GT/CS
www.pezzolesi.com
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Old 10/13/2006, 02:30 AM   #14
C160223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpheyes
I found a rebuilt online with this info:

(i) engine block casting C8OE-A C8TE-B C8AE-B D1MZ AA
(ii) crank casting 2M
(iii) head casting DOOE D2OE C8AE-J

Would this be the right engine?

you need to look for a block with a casting number of C8AE-6015-B or C8OE-6015-A. Either block will be correct and should have been cast within 2 months of your cars actual production date. Crank will be marked with 2M. Correct heads for a "J" code will have a C8OE casting with 302 68 marking on the bottom side of head and 302 & 4V cast on the top side visible when valve covers are removed. 4V intake will have a C8ZE-9425-A casting and again should have a casting date within 2 months of cars production date. Carbs were Autolite 4300's. Part # are C8AF-AS for auto & manual trans cars, C8ZF-C for manual trans cars with T/E (thermactor emissions) and C8ZF-D for auto trans with IMCO (improved combustion control system)

If you want a correct "J" code engine for your car , I recommend you getting a copy of Bob Mannel's Mustang & Ford Small Block V8 1962-1969. It is an excellent book with very detailed information. http://www.fordsmallblock.com/

John P
68 GT/CS
www.pezzolesi.com
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Old 10/13/2006, 04:51 AM   #15
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Glad you had all the info John. I had some extra time so went out and looked and couldn't see any of my casting numbers without taking parts off.

I also wanted to correct my earlier statement about the suffix in the head number. I was thinking in terms of '68 302 at the time but didn't want to mislead anyone. The suffix, in conjunction with the first 4 characters, can/will denote engine size, combustion chamber config., thermactor or not (manual or auto trans.), valve train config, etc. Hope I didn't confuse the issue, but didn't want anyone to misunderstand what I was talking about.
Steve

The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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