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Old 09/11/2006, 10:03 AM   #1
Mustanger
 
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Cool Wax on, Wax off ...

With Summer bringing on opportunities to go to cruises and car shows, what are your favorite waxes and cleaning products???

"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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Old 09/11/2006, 11:38 AM   #2
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Cool

I use products from "The Wax Shop". I rarely wash the car but instead I use the spray detailer and microfiber clothes to keep the car clean. I have also had good luck with their polishes and glazes. Everyone has their preferences, usually it is either Mother's or McGuires products.

http://waxdepot.safeshopper.com/

Right now I am as old as I have ever been.
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Old 09/11/2006, 12:22 PM   #3
Midnight Special
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...I use TJ, my proud 13 yr old as well as Mother's wax and Meguiar's spray detailer. Occassional wiping of Armoral on the seats & dash etc...

Are there any special recommendations for the engine compartment?
Right now, I'm using the spray detailer (dampened cloth) in there too.
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Last edited by Midnight Special; 09/11/2006 at 01:01 PM..

Tim
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Old 09/11/2006, 12:32 PM   #4
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Cool

I remember The Wax Shop products, it's pretty good stuff ... I like using Meguiar's for painted surfaces, Mother's for chrome ... Zaino has also impressed me ... it reminds me a little of Meguiar's no. 7 but with less effort in removing the wax and buffing ... check it out:

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

... it's a little more expensive than Meguiar's, but it does the job ...

"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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Old 09/11/2006, 01:47 PM   #5
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Cool Water Beading and Sheeting... as a Measure of Durability

Zaino has some good tips:

Almost all polishes, waxes, etc. bead water initially. As they are removed, breakdown or dissipated by washing, exposure to sunlight and heat, expansion and contraction, abrasion, abrasion from pollen and other pollutants, the water beading is diminished. This is due to the reduction in surface tension of the polish or wax once it is removed or breaks down.

If the surface has any protection when there is no water beading is the subject of much controversy. Especially when the polish or wax exhibits good water beading immediately after the initial application. If there is any protection left, how would one know? There are no scientific tests to my knowledge that can determine this. Most consumers and especially wax/polish manufacturers use the reduction in the height, contact angle and diameter of water beading as a gauge to know when to re-apply polish/wax for continued protection.

If a polish/wax gives water beading initially but then stops beading after washing, part of the polish formula has been removed. If this happens, is there any protection left???? Was the chemical or film that caused the water beading also the protection????

If a manufacturer claims that their polish/wax will bead water initially and then magically change to sheeting... I say impossible!!!! Let them prove that the polish/wax film protection initially applied is still there...

Until a specific test is developed and not some fake, razzle-dazzle test, these questions will remain unanswered and I will continue to use water beading, (height, contact angle and diameter) as a major factor in gauging a polish/wax protection.

P.S. Please remember that healthy paint will bead water without any polish/wax applied. This confuses many people to believe a polish/wax is lasting longer than they think.

To test your polish/wax, you must measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) without any polish/wax applied. Next, measure the water beading of your paint (height, contact angle and diameter) within 24 hours after initially applying your polish/wax. This is your starting point. This will also be the gauge for determining the water beading (longevity, duration and changes) for that specific product. As the water beads start to diminish (get wider and shallower and loses contact angle), the polish/wax and its film protection factor is going away. When the water beading is the same as before you apply your product, the polish/wax and its protection are gone.

"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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Old 09/11/2006, 01:49 PM   #6
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Cool Towel Guidelines

... and some more tips:

I prefer high quality name brand 100% Cotton Towels Large White Bath Size for washing, drying and polishing. I don't like sponges natural or synthetic or any wash mitts, since they all can scratch.

Another great tip is to use a Toro 210mph Electric leaf blower. Dries your car in about 5 minutes.... without even touching the paint surface....

I prefer high quality name brand 100% Cotton Towels to dry the car. Chamois or the Absorber and especially the Water Blade are flat and could trap a piece of dirt and scratch the paint finish. Towels have nap and are much safer and forgiving. Even if it were to pickup a piece of dirt, the nap would cushion it.

Again Towels must be name brand high quality 100% Made in USA.

You must use only white. Not colored towels..... colored towels are not to be used because the dye leaves a chemical residue on the paint finish. Always wash your towels first before using. Use Liquid detergent and rinse twice.

When washing your towels. Only use Liquid detergent such as All or Tide, etc. Do not use Bleach, Powdered Detergents or any kind of fabric softener. They will leave a chemical residue on the towels which will transfer to your paint finish. Make sure to run rinse cycle twice to remove all detergent.

You should cut the selvages (borders) off the perimeter of the towels. This selvage contains nylon and polyester stitching that could possibly scratch your paint finish. The towels will fray a little once this is done. But it's better to play it safe.

Drying the towels on high heat will make them hold a static charge. I use the regular heat setting and remove them a little damp and let them air dry. You can fluff the towel real good when it's dry to make it softer.

As the towels get older they will lose there nap and absorbency and will have to be replaced.

Where to buy towels........

Some name brands make a lower quality version of their towels for K-Mart, Walmart and other big discount chains. These towels say 100% Cotton but that is not, totally true. The nap is 100% cotton but the backing material has polyester blend in it. So if you press a little to hard on the towel you can get some fine scratches or swirls. The point I'm trying to make is a lower quality towel is selling in a discount store for $6.00 or less (approximately) it is not the good stuff. I buy all my high quality towels at stores like Linens and Things and Bed, Bath and Beyond.

I realize that Cannon-Fieldcrest aka (Pillowtex) is no longer in business... but there are plenty of other towels still available. I buy all my Cannon & Fieldcrest towels in the Bath & Linen shops in the bigger stores in the mall. I pay anywhere from $10 to $20 per towel. You can also try Linens and Things or Bed, Bath and Beyond... If you cannot find the Cannon or Fieldcrest line, then any high quality substitute towel from the above stores is acceptable.

These are the real deal. I buy about 3 or 4 towels and they usually last me about a year.

"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
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Old 09/11/2006, 02:00 PM   #7
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...Very interesting. Great info - I'm going to print this one. Thank you!

Tim
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Old 09/11/2006, 09:54 PM   #8
Diesel Donna
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HOLY SMOKES MUSTANGER!!!

Shoooooooot! I probably never used the same stuff twice to wash my car, but lately have been using this Armor All blue gel.
For many many years now I use white cloth baby diapers to wash and dry with. The nice thick kind of the old days. No need for window cleaner because it doesn't leave streaks or lint. Bug and Tar cleaner (who cares what brand) to get rid of the ickies, and a spray of No Touch on my tires.

The last time I waxed my car was...uh...uh....well the last time I waxed my car I used Turtle Wax!! Yup! I did! And the paint is now at least 25 years old and cost me $300.00~~~ the water still beads up high! I have a two inch wide artist brush that I use to get wax out from the crevices.

Now after I get my car painted again it'll be a different story!

(Can I borrow TJ?)

My GT/CS was my first car, still have it 43 years later. Paid $800. Featured in the May 1998 issue of Mustang Illustrated.
70 Cadillac S&S Ambulance, 70 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Old 09/15/2006, 09:54 PM   #9
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Wow, just makes my arms tired just thinking about washing my car - which I should do soon!

Marie

Friend Owns Four Specials 1 GT/CS clone and 2 '69 Mach 1s. & '70 Mach 1
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Old 09/19/2006, 06:07 AM   #10
nfrntau
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My Garage
Are we counting rain?

My car has been washed once in the last twenty years.
That would be by me when I finally received it from the transport company.

You may make it without friends; but with them, you can do anything.
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