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Old 01/16/2006, 02:22 PM   #1
luisa2552
 
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Stripe installation

Hi all,


While I have not been back to the shop to check the paint to see if it's just my imagination that it's lighter than it should be, I am already looking ahead to the stripe installation. I have read through old threads and see that it is written up in Pauls book (which I don't have). Is there somewhere else i can get this info? I want to make sure it is done right. Thanks to everyone for all the input. I am learning so much everyday on this sight!

Sara
Highland Green GT/CS
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Old 01/16/2006, 05:53 PM   #2
Mosesatm
 
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Sara, according to Paul's book the stripe should be centered on the scoop and should be 3 3/4" down from the body ridge line where the stripe meets the headlight bucket. It's a straight line between the 2 points.

I'll try to get the .PDF file small enough to post for you or I can send it to you if you. send me your email address.
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Old 01/16/2006, 06:09 PM   #3
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That would be great Arlie if you could email it. I have to put my email in my profile. It's luisa2552@sbcglobal.net. Does Pauls book have specifics on the deck lid stripe? I see that one messed up so often!

Sara
Highland Green GT/CS
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Old 01/17/2006, 09:25 AM   #4
CJ
 
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Sara; I sent you an email with an attachment regarding the correct positioning of the stripes. The directions were copied from Paul's book.

Good Luck
CJ

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Old 01/17/2006, 11:06 AM   #5
PFSlim
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Sara

Are you planning on putting on the stripes or is someone else? There are several tricks to installing the stripes that really help to prevent you from buying more stripes (like we did).

Paul

GT/CS sold to "PonyGal" for trip back home to California
1965 AC Cobra Replica - 390FE - Black on Black charcoal stripes - "The Black Pearl"
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Old 01/17/2006, 02:45 PM   #6
luisa2552
 
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Thanks CJ and Arlie for sending me the info in Pauls book. That's exactly what I need. I'm going to let the paint shop put the stripes on. Hopefully they have more experience than I do- maybe not specifically with a CS, but body stripes in general. Still, any tricks would be appreciated. I plan on posing pics as soon as I can.

Sara
Highland Green GT/CS
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Old 01/17/2006, 03:03 PM   #7
PFSlim
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Sara

We put our stripes on and messed up a few before we figured it out. We first used Paul's measurements provided. We marked the car with small pieces of tape down the length of the car. We then used a chalk line (normally for wood) to get a straight line. Then, used tape to make where the chalk line was. We did this because the use of water is required to put on stripe and knew that our chalk line would be gone with application of water.

Our thought was that before you put the stripe on, we would submerge the stripe (with backing on) in water. That is not true. The backing glue mixes with stripe glue and causes a very big problem. We did not dunk, but rather pulled the backing off the stripe, then used a spray bottle of soapy water, sprayed area where stripe would be applied. We then installed the stripe and used plenty of soapy water so we could move the stripe in place.

We left the outer stripe cover on during the application. Then used a body putty spreader to smooth the stripes out and attempt to take out most all air bubbles. Then, slowly pulled the outer cover off the stripe. Another learning experience was to be very careful as the small top and bottom stripes can move a great deal with the soapy water previously applied. Don't forget that the stripe is suppose to wrap around the front of the door, the back of the fender, and the back of the door. Stripes should also be installed before the screens on the scoops.

We did the same technique for the back stripe, however, it is important that the rear fender extensions go on first, then the deck lid stripe. I think they match up better that way and have more flexiblity in moving the stripe around. The fender extension stripes go on top first, then moving down. The fender extension stripes should be alittle long and will require just a little trimming.

I think another important tip is to apply the side stripes on at a location that you can step back away from the car. That will really be your only indication that the stripe is straight and looks good to the eye. However, if in a tight spot, you can not see down the car very good.

In all this, we messed up a scoop stripe and door stripe before we figured out how to do it. It was a pretty costly mistake as ordering parts and pieces was just about as much as ordering a whole new stripe kit. Once we figured out how to do it, it went very well.

I think that is it. Good luck.

Paul

GT/CS sold to "PonyGal" for trip back home to California
1965 AC Cobra Replica - 390FE - Black on Black charcoal stripes - "The Black Pearl"
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Old 01/17/2006, 04:50 PM   #8
Russ
 
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Stripe installation

When I installed the stripes, I used soapy water also. I used a pliable, plastic "bondo" applicator to press the stripe into place and remove any bubbles. One thing I'm going to try on the next stripe application is the use of a laser level. You can set the laser where you want the stripe to go, and it will be straight. Just a thought.

Russ

'66 GT 350, (2) GT/CS, '68 GT Coupe, '73 CJ Convertible, '05 GT, '07 Shelby GT, and some Model T Fords
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Old 01/17/2006, 04:59 PM   #9
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I tried the laser level and could not get it to work on the scoop when aligning it to the door. I ended up having to do the masking tape on the scoop, and eyeball it. Maybe I goofed and don't know how to use a laser level, or all I could figure is the scoop is protruding out compared to the door and altered the light? (in other words, the laser level works ok for flat surfaces only?). Casey
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Old 01/17/2006, 05:04 PM   #10
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A laser will work on 3D surfaces if the laser is shooting a level line that is level with the laser. In other words a laser won't work on a 3D surface if it is angled up or down.
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Old 01/23/2006, 10:29 AM   #11
Diesel Donna
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Arlie and CJ,
Could you send me the same info you sent to Sara? I want to have my car painted again too but like Sara...am concerned about the stripe application. I have two of Paul's books but ...um... I can't find them right now. I think they are in my crate of Mustang books in storage.You may email me at desldonna@aol.com

Thanks very much guys. And thanks to Sara for asking because this has been on my mind recently.
P.S. Sara......GO GET that original engine before its' too late. Didn't you say it was a 390?

~~~~Donna

My GT/CS was my first car, still have it 43 years later. Paid $800. Featured in the May 1998 issue of Mustang Illustrated.
70 Cadillac S&S Ambulance, 70 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Old 01/23/2006, 11:12 AM   #12
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http://www.californiaspecial.com/for...p?do=big&p=440

Hope this link works. If not check the gallery
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Old 01/23/2006, 02:13 PM   #13
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I'm working on it Donna- It's a 302, not 390 but from what I understand there aren't too many of those either!

Sara
Highland Green GT/CS
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Old 01/23/2006, 03:53 PM   #14
Diesel Donna
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Cool! Thanks Arlie!

My GT/CS was my first car, still have it 43 years later. Paid $800. Featured in the May 1998 issue of Mustang Illustrated.
70 Cadillac S&S Ambulance, 70 Toyota Land Cruiser
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Old 01/24/2006, 09:56 AM   #15
CJ
 
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Donna

Sent you a private email with an attachment for the stripes from Paul's book.

Good Luck

CJ

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