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Old 11/13/2016, 08:16 AM   #1
bobby
 
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Weather you think you can or think you can't your usually right

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Where are the markings on the '68 CS

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ID:	21000Hi everybody I'm new to this site and would like to tell everyone hello. This site is unbelievably helpful. I'm currently doing a complete disassembly of this California Special. Any advice anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
I have a few questions:
1). What and where are any markings on the car that I need to record and/or take off before I have the car dipped?
2). If I powder coat body bracket parts, suspension, and motor brackets does it take away from the cars value? Planning on same color as original.
3). Can anyone recommend a good place to get the aluminum trim dents repaired and buffed out in or near NE Florida?

Thanks in advance for any input,
Bobby
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Last edited by bobby; 11/13/2016 at 08:34 AM..
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Old 11/13/2016, 09:00 AM   #2
retroman99
 
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Might suggest you look at purchasing the GT/CS recognition guide and owners manual. I've seen them on ebay for $75. it has a lot of great information on restoration. I just finshed mine and used it along with great advice from this site
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Old 11/13/2016, 09:14 AM   #3
bobby
 
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Weather you think you can or think you can't your usually right

Location: St Augustine, Florida
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Thanks good advice...be interested in sellingme your book LOL
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Old 11/13/2016, 11:01 AM   #4
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Location: Spokane, Washington
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Send me a private message or email and I'll help you out
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Old 11/13/2016, 02:47 PM   #5
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Location: Metairie, La
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There is a person on Vintage Mustang Forums that restores trim. I powder coated many items and wasn't worried about it.


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Old 11/13/2016, 06:13 PM   #6
dalorzo_f
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As for marking there is no "standard" you have to strip the car carefully and look at what you find on your car.

Common areas for marks are:
- lower radiator support
- RH apron on the outside area above the battery tray
- differential
- driveshaft (paint stripes)
- brake backing plates (paint daubs)
- differential, paper tag and chalk marks (mostly near breather connection)
- transmission (usually gone if rebuilt)
- engine (usually gone if rebuilt)

There are more, just document what you find. In general most do not recommend copying marks from other cars as marks do vary.

I'd suggest quality paint instead of powdercoating. Bolt areas will chip when installed,a nd the PC can the slowly peel. Once powdwercoated to refinish is a repeat of the PC process, needs to be stripped and redone, pint can be touched up.

On the aluminum if you are talking the rocker trims you can do a decent DIY with a few dollies and small hammers. I use hardwood blocks sanded to various shapes. Not perfect but can clean u dings. Beware that if the repair ends up scuffing the anodized finish the entire part needs to be re-anodized, not sure about there but here it is hard to find folks who do it any more and due to the size of the parts costs can be significant.

This is pricey (may be able to shop around and find it for a bit less) but is a great reference for the GT/CS owner.

https://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Recog.../dp/0962473014

Last edited by dalorzo_f; 11/13/2016 at 08:03 PM..
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Old 11/15/2016, 09:41 AM   #7
bobby
 
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Weather you think you can or think you can't your usually right

Location: St Augustine, Florida
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Thanks Retro I'm searching for one.
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Old 11/15/2016, 09:44 AM   #8
bobby
 
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Weather you think you can or think you can't your usually right

Location: St Augustine, Florida
Joined: Nov 16
Posts: 5

My Garage
Thanks Whodat I'll check out the site. Going to the Turkey Rod Run Thanksgiving weekend to see if there are any shops represented nearby that restore trim as well.
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Old 11/15/2016, 09:48 AM   #9
bobby
 
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Weather you think you can or think you can't your usually right

Location: St Augustine, Florida
Joined: Nov 16
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My Garage
Wow Delorso thanks. I will check all these places. Seems like a good lite and patience might be in my future. Wish Ford would have been consistent in locating ID markings.
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Old 11/15/2016, 03:49 PM   #10
dalorzo_f
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Quote:
Wish Ford would have been consistent in locating ID markings.
3 lines running 3 shifts, 300,000 cars in '68, hand marked by humans not robots...
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Old 11/17/2016, 12:09 AM   #11
68 special
 
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I would suggest taking lots of pictures of the disassembly. I didn't and when it came time to put it back together after several months or longer, it wasn't fun.

Keep us posted on the progress.


Bret
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Old 11/17/2016, 01:21 AM   #12
J_Speegle
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby View Post
... Wish Ford would have been consistent in locating ID markings.
Not sure which markings your referring to. Allot were applied not by Ford but by subcontractors. For line markings normally it came down to three workers so there is some variations but if you look at enough of them they often fall into definable patterns in my experience. I've collected and or documented likely 8,000 to 10,000 from mostly San Jose Mustangs.

IF you can find one of your buildsheets that will provide you with maybe a dozen of the original markings. Unfortunately that isn't likely since San Jose workers treated/handled them differently than the other two plants


To dalorzo_f's list I would add

- Every suspension part especially related to steering. Steering box

- In the interior - Rear seat cushion, passenger side bucket seat, dash gauge housing, fuse box, heater phelum, door panels, drivers side seat riser

- Body panels - Rear valance, hood, headlight buckets, passenger side cowl, fenders, trunk lid

- Steel rims as well as spare tire and rim

- Wheel side of the battery box panel

Some of these can be wiped or cleaned to make it easier to see once you find them. Others will disappear quickly if wiped at all so take pictures before doing each step.

That should keep you busy for a whilehttp://www.californiaspecial.com/forums/imagesCS/smilies/smile.gif

Jeff Speegle
C U @ ConcoursMustang.com
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