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Old 03/15/2014, 01:45 AM   #1
dalorzo_f
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Grille trim oddity...

Went to put the grille trim back on and the outer/upper tabs on the wide grille trims has nowhere to mount. Thought this used a small zinc oval head with inbuilt washer screw like the two on the lower front... but no where to go.

Hate drilling, and am not sure of this used a different fastener, but evn if so the tabs just don't seem to line up at all tot eh existing holes.... they came off but don't seem to want to go back on!

???





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Old 03/15/2014, 06:13 AM   #2
murf104
 

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Richard, take your thumb and push in on the inside corner of the grille surround and the holes will line up. The contour of the surround and the pot metal curve of the headlight bucket are slightly different, or at least that is the solution that worked for me. The surround is soft alloy and will conform to the curve of the pot metal thus allowing the holes to align.
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Old 03/15/2014, 06:34 AM   #3
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+1 Marty

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Old 03/15/2014, 02:59 PM   #4
dalorzo_f
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Well, I'll try that again, could not get them to line up with all sorts of fiddling and got the two pretty well aligned along the edge.

Another issue is if you notice the lower hole diameter it is huge in comparison to the tiny screws used on the lower trim. 1/8"+ vs 1/16" for the lowers. So it uses different hardware than the lower two?? I thought I recalled on my other two they used the tiny screws there...

There is the possibility these have been replaced, anyone know if this might be a '67 attachment and its different to '68?

May just have to go with a custom nut and bolt to fit the hole...
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Old 03/15/2014, 11:06 PM   #5
dalorzo_f
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Nope, actually the inserts align almost perfect to the bucket.

Just going to look for some short flat head machine screws, or if I can't quickly find some that will work (not impede the outer trim install) I'll just drill two holes ...

Thanks.
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Old 03/16/2014, 06:23 AM   #6
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Richard it takes a special very flat head screw and tinnerman nut. 378178-S39 These screws are the same as used on the hood molding and wheel openings.
If you think this was fun just wait till you try to a line a reproduction narrow grill opening molding. You will soon know why the NOS sell for $100 each.
Good luck Marty

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Old 03/16/2014, 10:15 AM   #7
robert campbell
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Richard,
In you picture I noticed that all the fender bolts are not in. I assume that you are happy with the hood to fender to headlight bucket alignment? Just a small movement may make these holes line up better. I have about 10 hours in my current customer car in fender, door, and window adjustment. The doors shut like butter now and the windows seal to the weather strip. I moved the front fenders quite a bit to get what I wanted, but the grill stuff was bolted in.

Even if you move the fenders to get the grill in, you can then gently force them back quite a bit. I see many cars that are so thrown together it just kills me. I takes a ton of patience. If a car is fully disassembled and you are putting it back:

1. Start with the doors with the window in and the weather strip installed. Get that door as perfect as you can on the back edge, the weather strip, and the bottom.
2. Then work the quarter window in. It adjusts to the door. Lots of movement can be done to line up both windows.
3. Gently put the fender on with the bottom of the fender bolt, the one in the door jam and a front a rear top bolt. See how well you can match the door gap and the fender ridge to the door ridge. Take front and rear line of sighting to see if they are somewhat parallel to each other. If not mark and remove and see if you can move the door up or down a slight to bring it in.
4. Hood is last. Get it centered and move the fenders to match. If the grill alignment is funky mark the hood with chalk at the inner fender lip and then move it back when the grill is in.

Cars that have been hurt are even move fun. The current car I am working on has a complete new right quarter. Before it was painted, so door mockup would have revealed how a it of body work could have improved the gap at the door jam area.

And at the same time we all need to remember that these are old cars and the factory alignment was only so close.....

Rob
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Old 03/16/2014, 07:35 PM   #8
dalorzo_f
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Robert, thank for the tips, the hood is on, the gaps are all done. Maybe 3/16" and even on each side of the hood, stone guard tight, buckets to fenders, tight and smooth, etc.

I let the shop do that as it is one area I don't do often, so leave it to someone who does.

Doors were done with rubber on, but windows not in (lighter to work, windows are adjustable anyway, how I've done my prior cars). Then fenders w/buckets on, then hood centered and fenders/stoneguard.

Even if you moved the fender I'm not sure the molding to bucket fit will change. As noted the trim actually fits to the bucket almost perfectly, the bottom two screws lined up well, and are in, lucas lights on (other post) and grille is in.

The two missing bolts are just the bumpers, I could not find my new ones, so they are out, everything else on the fender/bucket/valence/grille is on tight.

The lower holes are just far too big for the tiny screws as on the lower edge, so will just drill and use them instead of finding a nut bolt to fasten.
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