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Old 10/21/2013, 10:01 PM   #1
dalorzo_f
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Drum brake distribution block rebuild

Have done the PB versions, but this is a bit different. Anyone know of a how-to on disassembly and repair (and if kits are even available)

Pulled the end cap and see a "screw" (slot) end of a brass lug. It does not want to move and I am unsure if it threads or not. I don't think so but odd it has the slot. As its brass, and soft, not interested in forcing it too much....

Last edited by dalorzo_f; 10/25/2013 at 05:06 PM..
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Old 10/25/2013, 05:05 PM   #2
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no one....????
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Old 10/25/2013, 05:35 PM   #3
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It has been a while since I did one of those. First remove the plastic switch then soak it in a 50-50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone for a few days. The tough thing about the drum brake one is you can only work from one side. Put it in a vice and using a punch lightly tap on the piston. Do not drive it in more than 1/16th then take the block by hand and pound it on a piece of soft wood the open end down. The pounding should move it outward. Repeat this process un till it move out far enough to pull it out with some needle nose pliers. Replace the seals and reinstall with the groove lined up with the switch plunger well. If you know some one with a ultra sonic parts cleaner I would clean it before reassembly. If it has been left open to the weather they can be all most impossible to get apart. I never tried it but if you rigged up a grease gun you might be able to pump it out. Good luck Marty

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Old 10/25/2013, 05:41 PM   #4
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I Googled 'brake proportioning valve' It came up with a 20 minute video by West Coast Classic Cougar for disassembly, cleaning and assembly. Try that.

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Old 10/25/2013, 08:03 PM   #5
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A proportioning valve is a different part but another difficult part to rebuild.

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Old 10/25/2013, 09:16 PM   #6
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I should have been more specific: The video includes the distribution block and proportioning valve. Worth the 20+/- minute video.

Neil
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Old 10/25/2013, 11:40 PM   #7
dalorzo_f
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Yep, think I saw that one, but its the PB version, which i have done beofre. But this is slightly different. Marty's reply was what I was looking for, the shaft "should" be able to slide in/out, not thread. It was the slot on the end that raised the question...

Thanks for the replies.
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Old 10/26/2013, 03:30 PM   #8
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Got pointed to this on another forum.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/va...atherhead-drum

And they also sell this, nice little tool for brake bleeding.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/brake-valve-tool
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Old 11/08/2013, 07:45 PM   #9
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Ordered a "new" block from WCCC. Shuttle/valve was really stuck so took the end lines and:

- crimped one
- drilled and tapped the other to take a zerc fitting
- whacked on the grease gun and popped the sucker out in 5 seconds, after a half hour of tapping, tweaking, banging on a wood block, heat...

Jsut a tip for anyone else who may need to get a stuck valve spool out of the block.
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Old 11/09/2013, 04:04 AM   #10
dalorzo_f
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Happy snap of the setup... may help someone else someday... if you have the stuff, too easy...

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