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Old 06/02/2014, 11:37 PM   #1
Tequila
 

Location: Seattle WA
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At a cross road - any suggestions?

Hi,
I am at a point where the interior on my 68 has been completely stripped, rust repairs complete and applied rust remover/encapsulater, and painted the bare metal areas of the dash underside.

I have all the parts ready to assemble the interior. My original plan was to complete the interior assembly and then work on the motor to see if it would start. It was seized at one point but was able to get it cranking before I removed all the wiring harness and interior stuff.

I do want to get the car repainted in the very near future and couple of the shops I was talking to said it would be a good idea to get it sand blasted or even soda blasted to remove the old layers of paint (currently on the 2nd repaint). Sandblasting is out of the picture especially if the interior is put back to its original condition. I heard that Soda blasting could also be bad especially if any left over soda gets into the nooks and crannies and eventually start to rest. I really wanted to see the car would run before the paint job (especially if we have to pull the motor or tranny out).

Should I proceed with the interior installation (except for window seals & trims of course) and try to fire up the engine before repaint? Or shall I just bite the bullet & go ahead with soda blast / repaint now with the interior removed? I am so worried about scratching the paint job especially if have to pull the engine, etc. Since there are 2 layers of paint, do you think paint shops would do the old fashioned paint stripping with a hand grinder?

Sorry to bother you with this. Appreciate any suggestions you may have.

thanks!!!
RT
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Old 06/03/2014, 05:06 AM   #2
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I would pull the drive train and strip to a rolling shell. Then media blast the entire body. Follow with the body and paint. While that is being done check out the engine and over haul if necessary. When the paint is done install the lines and electrical, then the engine, then fenders and front trim. Interior is what I finish last. If you have time while waiting on another phase you can cover the seats or clean and detail other parts so they are ready to go.
I have never been sorry for doing a job right even though it costs more up front. It s very discouraging to have to go back and fix some thing that should have been done.
Good luck with your build.
Marty

Follow HCS restoration at http://68hcs.weebly.com
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Old 06/03/2014, 08:50 AM   #3
franklinair
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Marty's right:
1.) Pull the engine & trans, send the shell for body & paint.
2.) If the engine was seized- overhaul. (Or replace if matching #'s aren't an issue.)
3.) Repair/replace suspension & brakes as needed.
4.) Interior is LAST.

Neil
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Old 06/03/2014, 09:30 AM   #4
Tequila
 

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Hi Marty,
I completely agree that is the route I should go, but unfortunately I already ran new lines, replaced a lot suspension parts and with a complete strip I don't think I will be able to put the pieces back together without messing it up or costing an arm & a leg by outsourcing it.

I had some rust work done recently (floor board & battery tray area) and the shop took me for a ride charging me over $5k. The rest of the car does not look that bad, including the cowl space area. At this stage I feel I can do most of the work myself except the painting and keep the costs somewhat under control. In addition to the rust repairs I already spent about $15k on parts to be replaced. Doing a complete rebuild is well worth it but I am just afraid to jump into something like this and it will completely blow my budget away.

Thanks again for your recommendations. Hmm... Lots to think about....
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Old 06/03/2014, 11:03 AM   #5
robert campbell
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Based on bucks sometimes the full meal deal is out of reach. You have your car down to parade rest and have installed some items. When I did my GNS I had all the panels off, the windows out of the doors and body, and no interior. Of course fenders, hood, doors, trunk lid and end caps off, and all trim. A rolling shell with a steering column and suspension and brakes including an "e" brake.

If you are comfortable with the fitment of everything when you took it apart, it can go back together very nice. Be aware of repop fenders and such. They need extensive fitment before you paint them. But if you have original Ford stuff it should work just fine. The side scoops and the end caps should be fitted to the car a bit before paint so send them with the rolling shell.

The hood, the fenders, the trunk lid, and the front and rear valance can and should be painted off the car. A lot of paint shops like to do this as it minimizes the time in the paint booth for the rolling shell.

Once back you can detail the engine area and address any overspray issues. Then the sequence in my mind is:

1. Land your rebuilt or known engine and tranny. Ensure all brake work is done such as bleeding and such BEFORE you land engine.

2. Address and install all the wiring in the dash and the engine and headlights and taillights.

3. Assemble the dash enough to test the wiring to all components. With a driveline in you can install a radiator, some temp exhaust, and test fire the engine and even rock engine in and out of gear. Heck you can install a driver seat and take it for a windy cruise with no windshield!! Not to fast as you more than likely have no front end alignment!!

4. Once all engine and tranny issues are sorted out and you are comfortable, you are ready for headliner, and then the windshield and rear window. Then install the trim and gaskets for the door and rear quarter windows.

5. Now you are ready for the doors. Assemble the windows, the channels, and the regulators in the doors off the car. Install rear quarter windows and regulators. No door or interior panels yet.

6. NEW DOOR HINGES or minimum rebuilt ones. With the front fenders off it is so much easier to align the doors. Get them back as far as you can to the door jam and the wing windows tight as you can. This where patience and attention to detail is so critical. The wing windows tip in and out. The rear windows tip forward and backward. The rear window to door window gap is critical. The new weather strip on the door itself is fighting you. Fuss fuss and fuss so more. Once satisfied you must then carefully mock up the front fenders. alignment and close gaps. Then mock up the hood. Can you get the fenders in and align those gaps to you liking. Ok, now you are done with what I think is the hardest part.

7. I would remove the hood, you can put the beltline and felt in the doors, and set the bottoming stops for the windows. Lube those window channels up as best you can. Once you put the fenders on for good, the side stripes will be later and you will hate yourself if the doors or fender move later!!

From here in it is basic assembly. As Neil and Marty said "interior last"!! To cut a buck on my car I kinda had ok bumpers and other easy to remove trim. They can be freshened up later.

The trick is if you are real satisfied with the current structure of the car. Blasting will reveal all evils. Sounds like you have a strong platform, and there is nothing wrong with not doing a full rotisserie job if you do your homework.

Rob
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Old 06/03/2014, 09:07 PM   #6
Tequila
 

Location: Seattle WA
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Thank you Rob, Neil, and Marty. You guys are awesome. Appreciate you helping a newbie with awesome suggestions and Rob, the steps you have outlined above is great advice and very logical.

This is my first ever restoration so I am just anxious to get it completed and especially hard when my kids keep asking when can they ride in the car. I was also rushing because my nephew who has been helping me is starting West Point this summer and I wanted him to drive it for a few days before he went off to the academy. Anyways, you guys have convinced me to do it right than just putting it back together in totally the opposite sequence.

I don't think it needs a rotisserie restoration since the interior panels and flooring are in good shape. The doors and fenders have couple of cancer spots and hopefully that would be the extent of the damage. But, as Rob said who knows what sand/soda blasting would reveal. I don't mind pulling the tranny and the engine out. Now the toughest part is finding a somewhat reasonable, yet reputable/quality shop to do the body work and painting.

thanks again!!
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Old 06/03/2014, 09:29 PM   #7
franklinair
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Hopefully someone in your area can recommend a good body/paint shop. Do you have a local Mustang club? Are you a member? Wothwhile for such networking. (Be prepared for $7K to $10K cost.) :-(

Neil
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Old 06/04/2014, 10:54 AM   #8
Tequila
 

Location: Seattle WA
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Thanks Neil. I have couple of sources, but they somewhat high end shops. My budget is about $10k so hopefully I could get the stripping, body work, painting done and stay within the budget. It's just hard to find a good shop that takes good care of your car and do an excellent job. The shop that did the rust repairs on my car had the fender/bumpers out, but did a lousy job of putting them back on. Before it was perfectly lined up, but now the fender, the front grille are all out of alignment and missing several bolts. They did an excellent job with the welding so I didn't complain. I have seen some really bad welding jobs. It's hard to find a shop that's good at both, I guess.

Anyways, If others have any recommendation for a good shop in the Seattle/Tacoma area please let me know. thank you.

By the way, I found a new re manufactured 302 long block from S&J engines for about $1400. It comes with a 7 yr /100k mile warranty so I figured I might as well swap out the motor when I am ready to put them back in.
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Old 06/04/2014, 11:24 AM   #9
CougarCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tequila View Post
By the way, I found a new re manufactured 302 long block from S&J engines for about $1400. It comes with a 7 yr /100k mile warranty so I figured I might as well swap out the motor when I am ready to put them back in.
What year is the block? On our cars, the oil dipstick comes out of the timing cover. Later blocks locate the oil dipstick in the side of the block.

Scott Behncke
1968 GT/CS 302-4V Honors flysis income beezis onches nobis inob keesis
West Coast Classic Cougar A good source for Mustang mechanical parts too.
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Old 06/04/2014, 11:35 AM   #10
Tequila
 

Location: Seattle WA
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My Car is a 68 CS/GT but the engine in there appears to be a 302 from 70-73. I will have to take a closer look at the engine to see where the dipstick is going in.
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Old 06/06/2014, 09:43 AM   #11
Tequila
 

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Hi again, I think I may have found a good body/paint shop. They manager I spoke to said they hand strip the paint with a grinder. Is that preferable over Sand Blasting or even Soda Blasting?

Since I am pulling the engine, tranny, and the interior, is better to completely strip it using soda/sand? I am sure this question may have been raised before, but I can't seem to find a straight answer. The shop has done couple of high $$ builds in the past and sounds like they know what they are doing.
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Old 06/07/2014, 06:02 PM   #12
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I like media stripping the car, because it gets in to all the little nooks and crannies that a grinder won't. Also, sometimes a shop helper with a grinder can get a little carried away and do damage to the body panels as well, but a media blaster using alum oxide (nobody uses actual sand, because of the danger of getting silicosis) can also warp a panel if he doesn't move the wand fast enough and lingers in one place to long. The stuff I want to try on my next restoration is CO2. No residue.

Steve

The wannabe formerly known as an owner.
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Old 06/10/2014, 09:38 PM   #13
Tequila
 

Location: Seattle WA
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Thanks Steve. Do you know if there are many shops out there that does the CO2 blasting? I assume its the same as dry ice blasting? I searched for CO2 blasters in WA state and came up with hardly any shops here. Hopefully I can find something soon.
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Old 06/10/2014, 10:19 PM   #14
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I did a google search using "dry ice blasting seattle" and several names popped up. I don't live there, and have no personal knowledge of any of them, but it's a place to start.

Steve

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Old 06/10/2014, 10:50 PM   #15
Tequila
 

Location: Seattle WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrtrash View Post
I did a google search using "dry ice blasting seattle" and several names popped up. I don't live there, and have no personal knowledge of any of them, but it's a place to start.

Steve
Steve,
No worries. thank you for your help. I googled too but most them are for commercial / industrial applications. The rest are really sand or soda blasters.

Anyways, I will call around tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
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