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1968 Replace a 1V with a 2V

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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9,003
I'm considering winter projects for my T-code coupe and one of them may be swapping the 1100 carb for a 2100, or other 2V.

Is anyone familiar with the 1V to 2V swap? Does it help performance? is the 2V more reliable and easier to work on than the 1V? Is the swap more trouble than it's worth?
 
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Ruppstang

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May 22, 2009
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I do not know anything about this swap but the 2100 is a lot better carb that the 1100 because the fuel is discharged through a annular discharge which better atomizes the fuel. That gives it better performance and fuel economy.
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
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Arlie,
The 200 six has a cast head and intake manifold with only a single port for a carb with a single butterfly. A 2100 has two butterfly's and will require an adaptor of some kind that may bolt on. See link.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/trans-d...ck-intake-200-6-cylinder-1965-1970/p/CARBAP1/

The performance increase will be minimal at best for your 200 six shooter without further modifications such as a bigger cam. some exhaust port work and a split header configuration. All of this can be done, but it is spendy. but the cool factor would be great.

I can make that carb purr like a kitten and even have a doner car to wet test it on. The biggest modification for performance and fun would be a 5 speed manual transmission. Better gears will make it feel way more peppy than a carb enlargement. Of even an AOD overdrive automatic would also make it a lot more fun.

Or you can go crazy with these guys!! Get your wallet out!! To do this you will need to replace the 200 with a 240 six with a bolt on intake manifold. then the sky is the limit!

http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product-category/aussiespeed-manifolds-performance-intake/

Rob
 

robert campbell

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Scott,
Back in the day, Ak Miller took Ford 200 six cylinder heads and modified the the log style manifold to mount three motorcycle carbs to feed the engine. Cool stuff and might be some of that stuff out there.

There is so much stuff out there for 240 and 300 inch six shooters to make them lethal weapons. Doubt that Arlie wants to do that.

Scott, the stuff you posted a link to from Clifford's is a great buy. The Weber conversion looks like a great mod and with some headers and a cam it could wake up a 200 six!

Ok Arlie, the ball is in your court!!! Bring it over and I will convert it!!

Rob and Scott
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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Sorry Rob, but I'm just looking for something more adjustable than the 1V.
The Holley 2V seems to be the easiest carb to purchase.
If I ever pull the engine I'll most likely install a cam kit.
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
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Arlie,
I can make that 1V purr like a kitten. I think you can go for a 2V carb, but a cam and some headers would be a package that would make a difference as you mention. Ready to 5 speed it or put an AOD in her?? Drop the rear end gears to 3.50 or 3.70 and you will feel a huge difference in the fun factor!!

May need to go to an 8 inch rear end to get gear ration choices.

Rob
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Here's what I've come up with so far:
Clay Smith Cam 264/214
Clay Smith Lifters
Clevite 77 Bearings
Clay Smith Springs
Melling Oil Pump
Vintage Inline Carb Adapter
Vintage Inline Phenolic spacer
I already have a new timing chain and gears

Now the difficult decision; Autolite or Holley 2V carb?
I'm looking for dependability and adjustability, not raw horsepower.
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
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Autolite for me also. With a fresh rebuild and a new brass float.

Now you get an AOD or 5 speed behind it and you will have the best of modern technology.

You know that they offer 2 barrel throttle body fuel injection!!! I love to spend other peoples buck-alar-ros!!

Your Friend
Rob
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Does anyone have a complete core carb, 1.08 or smaller they'd like to sell?
 

franklinair

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Mar 1, 2007
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I don't see the practically of increased carburation for a 6 cylinder. They weren't built or intended to smoke the rear tires. I've had a couple 6 cyl Mustangs, and properly tuned & adjusted they ran just fine.
This scenario reminds me of putting a 750CFM carb on a stock 289. Nothing to gain, and over carbed. But that's just me, 'Stock Happy Hoppe'.:cool:

Neil
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Here's my reasoning.

Unfortunately, In 1968 Ford changed the venturi size of the Autolite 1100 from 1.2" to 1.1", which reduced the flow from 185cfm to 150cfm. They also changed the timing from 12* to 6*. All for emissions reasons.

The 1968 Ford 200 pulls 289cfm at 5,000rpm and 100% efficiency. Most engines run at around 80% efficiency. To get the engine flow down to 150cfm the efficiency needs to be only 52%. If the engine runs at a poor 75% efficiency it pulls 217cfm.

I could install an earlier 1100 but they have a goofy tie to the distributor.
The Autolite 2100 with a 1.01 venturi pulls 240cfm, which is a touch oversized but it's a great carb and I can play with it as needed.

At the end of the day, who knows, I may stay with the carb that's on the car.
 

robert campbell

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Arlie,
You are also increasing the lift and the duration of the cam in your six. This will allow and demand a bit more from the carb.

Rob
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
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I found a little problem with my carb that may be causing some of its issues.
The driver's side accelerator pump leaks when it kicks in, which is odd because it's a new diaphragm. Hopefully another new diaphragm will solve the problem, but I'm not counting on it. Two other problems could be too much fuel pressure (new pump), or a stuck float. Luckily, the carb comes off by removing the fuel line and two bolts. All the linkages and other stuff are in the base plate that remains attached to the intake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMqscULOnDk

The '68 Autolite 1100 is a little odd in that it basically has two accelerator pumps, one on each side. The one on the passenger is called an anti-stall diaphragm. It has an adjustment screw that is used to somewhat reduce the flat spot between idle and acceleration. Somewhat, not completely.

It's an incredibly simple carb. From what I've read the 1100, 2100, and 4100 are all based the same carb. Using the 2100 as a base, the 4100 is two of them stuck together, and the 1100 is one cut in half, sort of.
 

Ruppstang

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May 22, 2009
Messages
3,024
I found a little problem with my carb that may be causing some of its issues.
The driver's side accelerator pump leaks when it kicks in, which is odd because it's a new diaphragm. Hopefully another new diaphragm will solve the problem, but I'm not counting on it. Two other problems could be too much fuel pressure (new pump), or a stuck float. Luckily, the carb comes off by removing the fuel line and two bolts. All the linkages and other stuff are in the base plate that remains attached to the intake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMqscULOnDk

The '68 Autolite 1100 is a little odd in that it basically has two accelerator pumps, one on each side. The one on the passenger is called an anti-stall diaphragm. It has an adjustment screw that is used to somewhat reduce the flat spot between idle and acceleration. Somewhat, not completely.

It's an incredibly simple carb. From what I've read the 1100, 2100, and 4100 are all based the same carb. Using the 2100 as a base, the 4100 is two of them stuck together, and the 1100 is one cut in half, sort of.

Only the 1100 just dumps in the fuel, the 2100 and 4100 have annular discharge jets that better atomize the fuel. That is what makes them such great carburetors.
 
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Mosesatm

Mosesatm

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Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,003
Only the 1100 just dumps in the fuel, the 2100 and 4100 have annular discharge jets that better atomize the fuel. That is what makes them such great carburetors.

Yep, that's one of the things that creates the flat spot in the 1100, another reason is the distance to the outer cylinders. If the 2x1 system isn't too expensive I may go that route instead of the 2100. More research to do.
 
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