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1968 rear window trim

JohnnyQuest515

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
302
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
I don't have a book for reference yet but how do you remove the trim on the rear quarter window? Mine is pitted and they don't work very well.

(Vertical trim that is against the driver/passenger door window)

I have read previous threads talking about the rollers need lube and/or replacement...

ALSO! What is a good book for the interior makeover. I will be doing the interior remake in a few weeks.

Thanks, Randy
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
Randy;
On the interior re-do, not knowing the extent you want/need to do, I'd contact Ron (clubpro) for whatever you might need. To me, the toughest interior job is replacing the headliner (tedious, but do-able). I upgraded my '68 convert to the Deluxe interior, and like it so much I'm going to do it to my C/S. It would add a few hundred $$$ to the total interior re-do, but it looks really RICH. Ron can get all the stuff for you, and offers a nice price break to members of our site.

Neil
 
OP
OP
JohnnyQuest515

JohnnyQuest515

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
302
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
I don't need any parts, have everything already.

I just need to know how to...

1. Remove/install dash
2. Remove gauges/bezels/trim pieces
3. Repair side rear window trim

Randy
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
1.) Remove steering wheel, and cover steering column to prevent scratching.

2.) Remove glove box door & ashtray.

3.) Remove dash panel above glove box. (There will be 5 or 6 nuts on the backside. Either 9/16" or 5/8" socket will work.)

4.) Remove instrument cluster: (Now the FUN begins!)
I always remove the heater/fan control panel first, so I can get my hand behind
the instrument cluster, as there are 2 connectors to separate, plus the speedo cable.
There are 5 screws on the front of the instrument bezel. After they are removed
you'll have a little slack to pull the instrument cluster towards you, depending on
how much slack the speedo cable allows. The speedo cable 'B' nut I think takes a
13/16" wrench (if it's not just finger tight). The connector for the W/S wiper switch
will slide off easily.
You should now have about 4 to 5" of space to reach behind the cluster, to separate
the 2 connectors. (They are held together by plastic clips, sometimes a PITA to get
apart.) When the speedo cable & the 2 connectors are separated, you can then
remove the complete cluster, with a little wiggling & cussing.

5.) If you car has factory A/C, you can now remove the A/C register. If not A/C, the
blanking panel will almost fall off.

6.) Remove the dash pad: First remove the windshield trim strips on the top of the dash
pad (6 or 8 screws). There are 2 studs at the left & right lower ends of the dash pad.
They are secured by nuts (3/8" socket if I recall correctly). There are also screws
along the top edge of the dash pad - remove them. Now the dash pad is not secured
by any fasteners - BUT - it's probably baked onto the metal dash structure after 40
years of sun & baking. You'll have to wiggle, lift, pry, cuss, but eventually it will
break free. If you're going to re-use the dash pad, USE CAUTION so as not to tear it.
If you're going to replace it anyway, less caution is required. But it's still a PITA.

The bezel is removed from the instrument cluster by first removing the W/S wiper square
knob with an Allen wrench. Then the screws on the backside of the cluster. Be careful of the plastic pieces that block the lighting for the turn signal lights & hi-beam light. When I have a cluster apart, it's an ideal time to freshen the instrument faces. I use dayglo orange on the pointers, 1/8" red tape on the speedometer arc. (This is also a good time to change over to LED bulbs.)

Can't help you on the 1/4 window trim - never had to do that.

Neil

PS - With the cluster removed, it's a good time to squirt oil down the speedo cable sleeve.
 
Last edited:

66hcs-conv

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
360
BEFORE ya do any work around the dash area, please disconnect the battery.

I prefer to remove the negative (black) first then the positive (red). When reconnecting, put the positive on first, then the negative.

Have fun!

Dave
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,011
Thanks! Exactly what I am looking for.

Yeah, the fun begins...

Randy

Randy, I'll be in Pflugerville (Cook-Walden Capitol Park Cemetery) either next week or the week after with my car so if you need any help or need to use my car as a reference for putting stuff back together let me know and I can swing by.
 

aemoo28

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
1,127
Location
The Great Northwest
When Rob gets back from his visit with Tim, I'm sure he'll chime in with the rear window thing. mechanicalguy Steve and Rob tackled this issue with me. The trim was giving me a problem and Steve put a cut in it to ease the window up and down.
 
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