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1968 Engine update

Firstmustang

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
32
Location
Dallas, Tx
After many months I finally tore into the engine. Upon removing the intake manifold I noticed a pool of oil along the right side bank of openings and inside one of the openings (not sure of the technical term). All else looked really good under the manifold. Any ideas on the cause of the oil leak and how to address the issue.

See pictures for details. Feel free to utilize my patent pending junk catching method as seen in the pictures as well. :grin:

Thanks

Nick
 

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robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Oil in those cavities is very normal. Nothing to worry about. One thing a lot of people do not do is properly torque the intake manifold and do not follow up after the first few runs to retorque. After a few runs you should retorque/retighten every nut and bolt you can get to.

Rob
 

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,186
Looks like you have a 302 harmonic balancer. Is this your original engine? VIN should be stamped on the flat pad at the rear top.
 
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Firstmustang

Firstmustang

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
32
Location
Dallas, Tx
I'll check it tonight. I've always been led to believe that this is the original engine. However, it underwent a complete rebuild in 2011. I found the pics and documentation last night, very interesting to see the history and the old photos.

Do you recommend that I do a complete tear down, or just partial? The only thing wrong with the engine was that I could not get it to flush out good clean coolant only dark black coolant. I also really wanted to paint the engine and engine compartment.

Thanks for all the quality information.
Nick
 

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,186
Even though you have a 302 engine block, Ford was installing 289 crankshafts in them for C code cars in 1968.
 
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Firstmustang

Firstmustang

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
32
Location
Dallas, Tx
Just checked my block and it does match the vin. Looks like it’s still the original. That makes me happy.
 
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Firstmustang

Firstmustang

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
32
Location
Dallas, Tx
Just checked my block and it does match the vin. Looks like it’s still the original. That makes me happy.
 
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Firstmustang

Firstmustang

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
32
Location
Dallas, Tx
All,

An update on my engine build and a few questions that I'm hoping the pros on this forum can help with.

After a long COVID related delay I finally got my parts back from the machine shop and have most of the engine assembled.

All has gone very smoothly so far.

Question #1:
Valve Adjustment - I have adjusted the valves using the common method of tightening the nut on the rocker until you feel resistance when turning the push rod, then give the nut a half turn and you're done. I've done this on all the valves, but I feel like the rocker arms are not tight enough when the lifter is down or flush. The rocker arms are able to move right and left very easily. Should they be snug on top of the valve stem? Should the push rod be able to be turned as well when the lifter is down?

Question 2:
Using RTV on the intake manifold gasket. I have the fel-pro gasket kit, and in the instructions it says to not use RTV with the exception of where the gaskets meet other gaskets (rear seal, and front seal). Do you all recommend using RTV on the head side and the intake manifold side?

Thank you all in advance for the advice.
 

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robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Be sure to use an oil pump pre-lube device to ensure the lifters are pumped up. You will need a strong reversible drill motor!

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/oil-pump-primers/make/ford/engine-size/4-7l-289

I always go through the firing order (15426378) 90 degrees at a time on the damper. A timing tape is a great investment of 10 bucks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163594/make/ford

I will even pump the oil pump a bit between lifter adjustments. The spring on an unpumped lifter is very light and hard to tell when you hit zero lash. Your method of pushrod spinning a 1/2 turn is spot on. After you go through an adjust the lifters when you get back to number one if may feel loose again. It is not and has just "bled down a bit". That is normal, do not adjust them and tighter.

Intake gasket should be "stuck" to the head surface. I use this product:

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...x-aviation-form-a-gasket-no-3-sealant-liquid/

I hope you got the Print-o-seal gaskets from Felpro.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1250/make/ford

Put them on dry on the top surface that goes to the intake. Get some form a gasket RTV in Ford blue:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...1596235377077&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba295df391ba

Put a thick around 3/8 inch bead on both ends in leu of the cork gaskets on the valley ends. Ensure you go up a bit on the intake gaskets at the corners.

I use 4 studs in the head to ensure the intake drops on aligned perfectly and does not move or disturb the RTV beads on the ends. Torque down in three steps following the torque pattern. I always go over the intake at the full torque 3 or 4 times after the first tree time. You will find that the middle loosens as the ends are tightened down. I also retorque my intake annually to ensure that it stays tight.

Rob
 
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