• Welcome to the CaliforniaSpecial.com forums! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all our site features, please take a moment to join our community! It's fast, simple and absolutely free.

    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

    Please Note: If you are an existing member and your password no longer works, click here to reset it.

1968 Help getting started on my project

tomcwarren

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
126
Location
Phoenix, AZ (Ahwatukee)
Doug,

I'm in Phoenix (Ahwatukee, just off the I-10). If you're going to be passing thru on the way to the Pacific NW, let me know - I'd love to see your car/show you mine.

What shop in Tucson did the restoration? I'm always looking for good AZ shops.

Tom
 
OP
OP
B

bassman2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
120
Location
Camas WA
Well, I actually have two cars now! I picked up a second one in Oregon last week. (blue C code)

I'd be glad to show them off - they are going to be in pieces soon.

Here's a question - On my C code, I just uncovered some minor rust in the drivers floor pan - (no plugs in the pan - the rest of the pan is super clean)

What is the consensus on rust control products? What's best? - Por-15, rust bullet, eastwoods rust encapsulator, and another one recommended by a friend that owns a shop called moot our moat?

Thank you!
 
OP
OP
B

bassman2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
120
Location
Camas WA
Here's a pic of car 2
IMG_0829.jpg
 

Powell

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2002
Messages
204
BASSMAN2,

The product your friend suggested is probably Rust Mort.
I personally like the Por-15 for my stuff.

Ralph
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,741
I first clean the area and then apply Ospho, a mild phosphoric acid (available @ NAPA). Rinse it off after 24 hours and then apply POR-15.

Neil
 

PFSlim

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
1,546
Location
Weatherby Lake, MO
Yep. POR-15 is great stuff.

Good luck on your restoration project.

Paul
 

Attachments

  • SurvivorStories.jpg
    SurvivorStories.jpg
    155.3 KB · Views: 32
OP
OP
B

bassman2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
120
Location
Camas WA
Progress Report:

I've finally got all the front body panels off of Car #2 - in prep for a battery apron and tray replacement. In the process I found that the radiator support pannel needed to go too.

The front frame member under the batter apron has some pretty good rust on it too... but I'm going to try and salvage that!

Tomorrow - weld prep, weld, etc - I hope I don't mess up.

Here's a shot of half-way and and a shot of the rust area on the rad support and frame rail
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0848.jpg
    IMG_0848.jpg
    44.3 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_0856.jpg
    IMG_0856.jpg
    44.1 KB · Views: 33

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
I replaced the apron and radiator support on our GT/CS. Got the car good and level and took all sorts of measurments from corner to corner and such before attacking the spot welds. Lots of sport welds to drill out. Save your brackets that hold the hood hold downs. I mistakenly thought the new rad support would come with them. Not!!! Had to retrieve the old one from the scrap pile!! Also did my complete left quarter panel and outer wheel house. Spot weld city!!

Rob
 
OP
OP
B

bassman2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
120
Location
Camas WA
progress report - slow going. Focusing on Blue car (#2)

I'm not working as fast as I should. I keep debating whether or not I should just bit the bullet and completely disassemble the car and have it dipped!

I've decided to cut out the driver floor pan and weld in a new one. Got a new welder for the job!

Some parts certainly are not showing up in a timely manner! I'm waiting for a new radiator support panel - the first one was messed up - hood lock brackets were spot welded incorrectly. Most parts are coming from CJponyparts - Please feel free to offer me advice on where to get better stuff! The batter apron pan seems to be off quite a bit during my test fit...

The inside is alost ready for rust treatment, and the front end is almost ready to receive new aprons.

Here's a pic.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0906.jpg
    IMG_0906.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 39

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
When I replaced my battery apron, it was off so much it was unusable as is. I saved my apron top (that has the vin in it) and cut the top off the new piece. I then fit the new apron as best as I could and welded in additional metal between the two pieces to make it come out closer. It's not exact, but the repop wouldn't have worked at all without doing this. Good luck.

Steve
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,032
I have had good luck with National Parts Depot and Virginia Classic Mustang. As far as reproduction go any way. There is nothing better than New Old Stock. I do the same repair on the battery apron as Steve, save all of the orignal you can. Marty MCA 38812
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,741
You're missing a really good 'win-win' situation. Ron (clubpro) of R&R Classics handles good quality parts, with a nice discount for site members. Just PM him. I get a LOT of stuff from Ron, and even with the shipping costs to NC it's well worth it.

Neil
 

Stathy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
96
Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
progress report - slow going. Focusing on Blue car (#2)

I'm not working as fast as I should. I keep debating whether or not I should just bit the bullet and completely disassemble the car and have it dipped!

I've decided to cut out the driver floor pan and weld in a new one. Got a new welder for the job!

Some parts certainly are not showing up in a timely manner! I'm waiting for a new radiator support panel - the first one was messed up - hood lock brackets were spot welded incorrectly. Most parts are coming from CJponyparts - Please feel free to offer me advice on where to get better stuff! The batter apron pan seems to be off quite a bit during my test fit...

The inside is alost ready for rust treatment, and the front end is almost ready to receive new aprons.

Here's a pic.

Anyone else here notice the size of this garage? What a lucky guy.
Still trying to explain to my wife that size does matter. :grin:
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,011
Are there any good shortcuts to clean up the underside of the vehicle and chassis???

Don't use lacquer thinner or paint thinner because it will remove the body color overspray and/or the red oxide primer.

If you can't get under the car far enough to use Gunk and a pressure cleaner try Car Quest's Purple Cleaner and a few cases of paper towels. I'm sure other auto stores sell the same stuff as their store brand. It reacts with oil or grease and turns purple. Kinda cool.

A good creeper with a headrest will make your job much more pleasant.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
I have been known to take a trip to the local car wash with a high pressure wand and my floor jack and jack stands, and jack up my car from one side to the other as much as I can stand......

Rob
 
OP
OP
B

bassman2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
120
Location
Camas WA
Anyone else here notice the size of this garage? What a lucky guy.
Still trying to explain to my wife that size does matter. :grin:

The first pics in this post are from my garage - The pics of car #2 with the front end off are from my newly purchased Fire Station! Yep - Fire Station - The county built a brand new station just down the road - and sold the old one!

Concrete block - 5 bays - office area - big parking lot - on an acre and a half.

I am a lucky guy!
 
Top