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Old 05/26/2018, 11:50 PM   #1
Batgirl89
 
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Car randomly dies

Car starts & runs well. But randomly dies, like at stop lights or driving through intersections. Its very exciting. Usually dies many times when I have just started it and put it in gear. We changed the carb, but acts the same. I found some exposed wires on ignition switch today. Would this be the cause?? Also, the yellow wire looks alittle cooked. Black with green strip has been worn through. How do I repair or replace the ignition wiring? How would you proceed with this? As always, Thank you for your help, Sheryl
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Old 05/27/2018, 06:18 AM   #2
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Here you go.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dr...1969/p/HW3125/

Installing it is loads of fun!!!
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Old 05/27/2018, 10:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
Here you go.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dr...1969/p/HW3125/

Installing it is loads of fun!!!
Thanks Arlie! ok so I do need change it (not repair wire with liquid electrical tape? )

How do I get the plug off the back? do I have to pull the ignition out?
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Old 05/27/2018, 04:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batgirl89 View Post
Thanks Arlie! ok so I do need change it (not repair wire with liquid electrical tape? )

How do I get the plug off the back? do I have to pull the ignition out?
The switch doesn't need to come out. There are two prongs on the connector that need to be pressed to remove the connector. One of the prongs is visible on the photo of the connector, there's another one on the other side.
All in all I think it's easier to remove the switch to gain extra room to work, using one of these tools.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dr...1968/p/HW1661/
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Old 05/28/2018, 12:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
The switch doesn't need to come out. There are two prongs on the connector that need to be pressed to remove the connector. One of the prongs is visible on the photo of the connector, there's another one on the other side.
All in all I think it's easier to remove the switch to gain extra room to work, using one of these tools.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dr...1968/p/HW1661/
Thanks Arlie!
Do you think this is causing the random dying?
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Old 05/28/2018, 04:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batgirl89 View Post
Thanks Arlie!
Do you think this is causing the random dying?
Im not sold on it yet. The others may want to chime in. A faulty coil can create the same issue, as can vapor lock.

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Old 05/28/2018, 08:30 AM   #7
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What Arlie said, plus check the wiring harness on top of the engine, and the pigtail from the distributor to the coil, as well. They get hot and the insulation breaks down, which can cause shorts. Check your vacuum lines and routing. If you have a factory tach, it might be going bad, which cuts out power to your coil.

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Old 05/28/2018, 10:24 AM   #8
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Thanks Guys! I did find a break in the insulation on the power lead(red with green strip) also the connection to the coil was shot, hardly any wire left to the connector. It show 11.8V at firewall connection & at coil connection with the ignition turned on. Ill drive the car now and see what happens

(this is the Highland Green car) Has Pertonix 2 with (45011) Flame thrower coil .6 ohms, Edelbrock carb 1403 500cfm electric choke, & AC

Last edited by Batgirl89; 05/28/2018 at 10:37 AM..
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Old 05/28/2018, 01:59 PM   #9
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Its 90 outside (too hot) But I need to see how the car is running.

Started & warmed up great. Put air cleaner on, died. Did this 2 more times. John saw black choke wire connector was hitting bottom of air clearner. Bends it down, air cleaner goes on, put in reverse then drive, no dying!!! (Always died reversing out) Drove 4 miles and it died. Starts right up, drive 1 more mile to dads, feel ignition switch and wires feels warm. At dads 5 mins, head home, live large I turn on the AC. Drive 1 mile, dies in same spot it died on the way over (crazy) Drive 1 more mile dies, ignition switch and wires at base very warm. Drive 3 miles dies. Starts right up each time and then I'm home.

Open hood. Coil and fuel line too hot to touch

fuel line is run on manifold. If you have vapor lock will the car start right up?
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Old 05/29/2018, 06:19 AM   #10
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Vapor lock means the gas in the fuel line gets so hot it vaporizes (no longer liquid), forming an air pocket that blocks fuel flow. It can change state back and forth as it cools and heats. I would think that the way the fuel line is routed under the valve cover lip, right on the manifold, would increase the possibility of vapor lock. It should have air flow around it and not be sitting right on hot metal.

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Old 05/29/2018, 08:00 AM   #11
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I agree with Steve. The fuel line should not be so close to the intake manifold. It should be re-routed to keep it as far away from the intake manifold as possible. I noticed the carb has a 'banjo' fitting for the fuel line connection so it can be rotated to any angle to accept the fuel line. (I usually rout the fuel line 3"-4" clear of the intake manifold.)

Not being familiar with your car's set up, all I can offer is an educated guess:
1.) I don't believe you're having a vapor lock problem (although I'm not comfortable with the fuel line routing).
2.) The fact that the engine starts right up, after shutting off leads me to believe there is a problem in the 'Run' circuit (pink resistor wire circuit that reduces voltage to the coil). When starting the engine, that circuit is bypassed, giving 12V to the coil + post.
When I install a Pertronix system I use a 'jumper' wire at one of the connectors at the firewall (adjacent to the left valve cover) in order to supply 12V to the coil when the Ignition Switch is in the Run position. This bypasses the Pink wire circuit completely.
Hope this helps without confusing you.

Neil
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Old 05/29/2018, 06:24 PM   #12
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Thank you Arlie, Steve, & Neil.
It does appear that the pertronix are installed on that "pink" line (I see it on the back of the ignition switch, but cant trace it) Neil do you recall which wire you tap into on the firewall ? (It has 1 tap for the electric choke so far) OR I found this relay during my research (this relay will correct the problem also right?):
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Old 05/29/2018, 08:25 PM   #13
rvrtrash
 
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I looked it up on Pertronix's website, and it appears it's a solid state relay with a voltage regulator built into it. Exactly the way I would want to go. I would run a separate wire through the firewall and tap a switched source from the fuse block if I was installing it in my car. Less load on existing switches and wiring. Use a grommet of course so you don't see pretty lights coming from under your hood as you cruise down the road.

Steve

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Old 05/29/2018, 08:25 PM   #14
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Batgirl89;
Yes. The relay kit will work on your ignition system.
My way just uses a 4' jumper wire (25 cents instead of $32). It is virtually invisible.
I'll get a photo to show you, but it will be a few days to do it. I have my new garage scheduled for erection Thursday and 7,000 gallons of Avgas delivery, family reunion Friday, airshow & fly-in on Saturday, and reclusive REST on Sunday .

Neil

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Old 05/30/2018, 08:22 AM   #15
p51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrtrash View Post
I looked it up on Pertronix's website, and it appears it's a solid state relay with a voltage regulator built into it. Exactly the way I would want to go. I would run a separate wire through the firewall and tap a switched source from the fuse block if I was installing it in my car. Less load on existing switches and wiring. Use a grommet of course so you don't see pretty lights coming from under your hood as you cruise down the road.

Steve
Steve

Can you point me to where it states that it's a solid state relay with a voltage regulator built into it? I can't seem to find that info...

Thanks

Here is the info I found.
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=138

... and the 'structions...
https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/4472001.pdf

What I did was just use a standard Bosch automotive relay from the battery to the pertronix flamethrower (1.5ohm) coil and ignitor1. Basically set it up the same way it's shown in the pertronix installation instructions except with a Bosch relay.

Also, (another option?) I looked at the Shop Manual pages 19-36 and 19-37. It sure looks like signal 904 is a 12v non-resistor wire coming from the battery through the ignition switch and going to the voltage regulator. And it is hot during "cranking" and "run". If I'm reading the schematic correctly this might be an easily accessible 12v in the engine bay. However, I'm not sure whether this line should be loaded or not...

James

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