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1968 Shock Tower Notch Kit/ Rack & Pinion Help

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
Now that i have finished painting my roll cage, the area of the car that needs attention is the engine compartment before i build the next motor.

I want to know if anyone has used the Flaming River or RRS Rack & pinion for their 1968 Mustang?

Which should i buy? or is there another i should consider? I want to hear good and bad if possible, any help would be very much appreciated.

Has anyone notched their shock towers to provide more clearance for the headers of a 351W block? I have found that RRS makes a shock tower notch kit and i would just need a plasma cutter and a welder to do the job myself. Can anyone share the name of a good company/product that you have used?

Any opinions on if i should notch the shock towers or just leave it stock? I'm planning on putting in a Dart 351 Iron eagle block with Trick Flow High port 225 heads. Is there enough clearance already? I'm trying to avoid having to do something weird with the header routing, i want there to be plenty of clearance so the headers can be routed in the best way possible

Thank you!

btw pictures of the painted roll cage coming soon!
 

di81977

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
438
I am running a 351W with aluminum heads and Hooker Super Comp headers (specially designed for a 351W conversion). Clearance is not an issue, plenty of room. Changing spark plugs is no problem at all. If you had a 65 or 66, I could see a potential problem with a 351W. Maybe it works so well because of the headers.

The only significant problem I found in converting to a 351W was setting up my accessories (alternator, power steering) on the 351W. Bolt patterns on the front face of the heads are different. Colorado Mustangs sold a small piece of aluminum stock with the correct bolt patterns for each side. Worked perfectly.

Regards
David
 

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,186
Are you going to use the non-power assist R&P?

I have driven a 1967 Mustang with one of those kits, and the power assist was too much in my opinion. Meaning one finger steering and little or no road feel.
 
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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
Thanks David, maybe I wont notch the shock towers after all. Do you have a picture of your engine compartment focusing on the sides of the motor looking down at the headers to show the clearance? Which aluminum heads did you use? The trick flow high port 225cc heads have the exhaust ports raised 0.750" (three-quarters of 1 inch).

Do you think that having the ports raised means even less clearance?

Cougar-

I don't really want to run a power steering pump anymore. Those things have been robbing horsepower from me for a long time and they usually leak a little ATF.

Most likely going with the manual steer rack & pinion without the power assist.
 

68 special

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2004
Messages
524
I also have a 351w in my car, with no problems accessing plugs, header bolts. Not sure if I have any pics around, but I'll look.

Bret
 

nfrntau

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Messages
1,020
Location
Rosharon, Texas
I too have a 351W in my car. I have hedman full length headers and Steeroids R&P set-up. I used adjustable motor mounts and had to notch the passenger side R&P mounting bracket for header clearance. Using a different brand header may have alleviated that issue, don't know. I already had my headers ceramic coated and didn't want to change.
Steeroids tech team approved my bracket modifications and I haven't had any issues with the steering system.
I would check with the R&P companies to see if they have fit charts for your headers/351W with their systems and check forums etc.
For my car, clearance with the shock towers was not an issue whatsoever. R&P mounting bracket clearance issues was the problem.
 

di81977

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
438
Here are a couple of pics from one side that I had laying around.

I do think the conversion headers make a difference and eliminate the need for modifications. Only problem I have with them is that one of the tubes, on each side, is detachable and fits into a sleeve. They are supposed to seal after heating up and cooling. Not the case and you get terrible exhaust leaks. Gasket sealer did the trick.

Heads are nothing special, just pro comps.
 

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davidathans

davidathans

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Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
coooool, thanks for the info 68 special, nfrntau, and thanks for posting the pictures David!

Hey guys, i am going to have custom 2" primary, full length headers made. What size are your headers on your 351W's?

so nfrntau you have Steeroids rack & pinion? Did you get the power assist type? or is it manual? you really like it?

i'm still trying to figure out which company i'm going to use for the R&P conversion.

I do have two particular concerns:

Since i'm having custom headers made, do you guys think its wise to do the rack & pinion conversion first, then put in the engine and then have the custom headers made and hope the engine and headers will clear the rack & pinion setup? I'm a little worried about doing the rack & pinion conversion first and then putting in the engine...

my other concern is:

i have the very rare steering column that has the "tilt-away" vacuum system that swings the steering wheel up and to the side so you can slide your knees out without hitting the wheel when you open the door...

i really don't want to lose that feature. I was told that it was very rare, and it still works well.

Does anyone know if i can keep this feature and make the conversion to rack & pinion?

Thanks
 
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davidathans

davidathans

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
I just ordered the Steeroids rack & pinion manual kit w/ the GM Column for $1652.45 including $78.50 for ground shipping. Spoke with Randy at Speed Direct. Really sounded like he knew what he was talking about and the customer service will be there if i need it.

I can spend $79 later and get the 3/4" u joint that connects the stock column to the R&P setup, but i'm hesitant to modify the stock column, being that it is that rare tilt-away column, although i would really like to keep it in the car.
 

nfrntau

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Messages
1,020
Location
Rosharon, Texas
David,
I found the guys at Steeroids to be very helpful, I'm sure they will make suure you get up and running safely. The instructions are good and the install is not difficult.

Since you have the opertunity and ability to do so.
Definitely install your R&P first, then your engine and then have your headers made. In that way you will have access to do what you need for the install and your headers will not be an issue after the fact.

I'm running the power steering, Steeroids R&P with the stock Ford pump. It seems to work well. It doesn't overpower my steering and the road feel is good. One hand steering down the highway is very comfortable.
 
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