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Engine Heat Problem

68gt390

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2004
Messages
2,021
Location
Columbus, Ohio
HELP!
Seems my engine over heating problem has returned. Several times this past weekend, engine heat jumped to over 230 degrees. This problem raised it's uggly head last summer and I replaced the radiator, fan, shroud, thermostat (180), hoses and installed mechanical gauges. Problem disappeared and car ran between 180 to 195 degrees until this weekend.
I may be off base but, could the heater core be causing this problem? Even after making it to the freeway and in open air, she still runs at 200 degrees or better. Doesn't make sense to me.

Don :-[
 

rvrtrash

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Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
I wouldn't think the heater core would "cause" the problem since it's just routing a small amount of coolant, compared to the radiator hoses. If you turn the heater on when the engine is hot, does it blow hot air? It should. You could always by-pass the heater core if you wanted. Some cars were ordered with heater delete in the southwest. Is your radiator cap functioning correctly, and anti-freeze mixture correct? Not meaning to insult, just tossing out ideas. I've been known to take the thermostat out and boil it in water on the stove with a thermometer to make sure it's opening all the way and at the correct temp.
Steve
 

twoclassics

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Joined
Jul 24, 2005
Messages
134
Yes Check the radiator cap, this is one of the most widely missed problems of overheating
 
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68gt390

68gt390

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Feb 22, 2004
Messages
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Location
Columbus, Ohio
Thanks guys. Never thought about the radiator cap. I'll check that today as soon as I get home. I do remember a friend telling me you can run a higher pressure cap and that will help sometimes. Guess I'll find out.

Thanks Again.

Don 8)
 
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68gt390

68gt390

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Feb 22, 2004
Messages
2,021
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Swapped out the radiator cap with a 16lb pressure unit and added some redline water wetter and that seems to have solved the problem for now. Hit the traffic with outside temp at 97 degrees and she never went over 200 degrees. When moving and circulating some air she dropped back down to 190 degrees. Will watch for the next few days and see how it goes. Thanks again guys.

Don ;D
 

rvrtrash

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Apr 25, 2003
Messages
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Glad it's working out. I hesitated to add another possibility earlier because I have no first hand experience with it but the theory seems valid to me. I'm throwing it out now just for consideration/debate. If you have a vacumn leak or a carb set too lean, it could raise combustion temperatures, causing the coolant temp. to rise. I believe this theory because I've noticed that the valves nearest the vac. tee (which is a controlled vac. leak) always seem to be burned more than the others. Just something to think about. ???
Steve
 

Sarge

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Joined
Nov 22, 2002
Messages
333
Location
Folsom, CA
I have been riding the Mustangs since the '65 came out, and we all know they are notorious for getting hot! I cannot tell you the amount of times we stopped in our 65 to keep it from overheating. Get a bigger radiator, (three row at least) and you will not have any problems
!
Robert
 

Mustanger

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Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Messages
1,974
Location
So Cal
Has anyone out there added a coolant reservoir? I recently saw a nice black GTCS last Sunday, and the owner seemed to have converted his windshield wiper reservoir into one for overflow of his coolant. He routed his overflow hose in the opposite direction from where it normally exits from the radiator cap, and it snaked over to the plastic container near the bottom. He even installed a black cap on the reservoir with "Coolant Only" printed on it ... it looked pretty good 8).
 

CalPaul

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Jul 19, 2004
Messages
120
Excellent article in August Mustang Monthly (pg. 58) on "How to: Troubleshoot Overheating"
 
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68gt390

68gt390

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Feb 22, 2004
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Location
Columbus, Ohio
After changing radiator cap and adding new coolant, and adding redline water wetter I think I may have found the real culprit that was causing the heating problem. Blew out a freeze plug Thursday afternoon about 1 block from the house. :'( Upon initial inspection after jacking up the car and removing the motor mounts on both sides and raising the engine up to get a clear look at the blown freeze plug, it seems the plug has been slowly leaking for sometime based on the amount of residue around the freeze plug. Once I pulled the blown plug out you wouldn't believe the amount of dirt that was inside the water jacket area. I removed the thermostat and flushed out the block and gobbs of black crap came out of the block. Talking to a friend who owns an engine shop he said it was a possibility that air was getting into the block and forming bubbles causing a heat problem along with all the gunk that was blocking the water passage. He also said that 9 out of 10 times if you blow a freeze plug it will always be the one right over the motor mount since that is the lowest point in the block and that's were all the crap gets deposited. You can bet I'll be flushing my block every year after this experience. Got everything back together, ran her down the road in 97 degree heat and she just barely went over 180 degrees. 8)

I'll also be paying a visit to the engine shop that did my engine rebuild. I have a few questions for them. :mad:

Don
 

390cs68rcode

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Dec 29, 2004
Messages
2,864
Location
Houston Texas
my 390 runs pretty warm as well. gonna replace the water pump (does not seem to flow as good as my other 390). If this does not fix it I might try the "flush the block from the freeze plug idea".
 
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68gt390

68gt390

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Feb 22, 2004
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Jason;
That's gonna be my next project - putting on an aluminum water pump. You can also bet I'll be watching the rest of the freeze plugs from this point on. Now I'm looking forward to my visit to the guy's at the engine shop on Monday. I don't think they'll be happy campers after my visit.

If you get the chance look at all your freeze plugs and check for any discoloration or residue build up around the bottom of the freeze plug. If you see any odds are it's in bad shape. I checked the rest of my freeze plugs and they looked good.n It's definitely a chore I don't want to go through again.

Don ;D
 

390cs68rcode

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Dec 29, 2004
Messages
2,864
Location
Houston Texas
i have had mine up on a lift and we have visually inspected the motor pretty well and no buildup was obvious.

have fun at the motor shop on Monday.
 

Sarge

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Nov 22, 2002
Messages
333
Location
Folsom, CA
Good info, all of this. My problem is I have recently developed an oil leak at the bottom of the timing chain cover. I know this means that I have to take out the radiator, remove the fan and pulleys, water pump, timing chain cover, and oil pan. Ouch, there is a few days work.

I have an aluminum water pump to replace the original. All gaskets are purchased, and I am ready to do the work. My question is, is it worth it to go to a two row timing chain??? Does that "buy me anything"??? ???Please advise.

Thanks,

Robert
 
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68gt390

68gt390

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Feb 22, 2004
Messages
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Location
Columbus, Ohio
Robert;
I don't know about anyone else here on the site but, I've always run a double roller timing chain in all my cars. As for any advantage I'm not sure on that one other than they are a stronger set up. If your running any type of horsepower that's the way I'd go. Anyone else out there got any thoughts on this one?

Don
 

nfrntau

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Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Messages
1,020
Location
Rosharon, Texas
No personal experience on this one, but everything I've read says it's a good idea.
At best it will tighten up your ignition system. The stock chain can stretch over a period of years.
Also a double roller timing chain won't set you back too many dollars.

I was watching spike TV yesterday and they were upgrading a jeep 6 banger with head and headers. They said to upgrade to a double roller when you have the engine apart. The biggest reason they gave was the original is plastic but they followed that up with the double roller was the way to go regardless what your project.
 

somethingspecial

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Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,795
Hi gentleman, I am a purist, and after spending countless hours looking for correct parts for my 390 GT/CS, before you think about replacing water pumps, think about sending your original pump out to be rebuilt. That is what I did, Just picked it up today, and it cost me just over $100.00, but I have the original pump from my car, With the correct cast date and part#. Just a thought. If you do replace, think about selling the original to someone who need it instead of using it as a core. Mike
 

Sarge

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Nov 22, 2002
Messages
333
Location
Folsom, CA
Mike,

I am not getting rid of the water pump for a core, it still works! I will keep the original water pump in a big plastic bin that I store all of the original parts that I have changed out in.

Where in Northern California are you located? If close enough, perhaps we could meet and swap lies..... ;)

Robert
 
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