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1968 Smashed Special

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Neil is correct on all counts. As far as buried parts such as floor pans, it has been my experience to see a brown primer mostly. The sill plate and door jam areas receive the body color. So some of the body color is present on the floor pans close to sills. Towards the middle of the car there is just primer on the floor pans.

Over the years one of the easiest ways to identify a car that may have been repainted and the door tag altered is to remove the sill plate and lift up the carpet near the sill plate. Most painters mask off near the sill and the original color remains on the floor boards. Not always, but I have seen it many times.

And I bet this would vary from plant to plant like Neil says!

Rob
 

J_Speegle

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Messages
488
Of course if you want to be just like the factory the interior colors were applied before the exterior colors and edges will indicate accordingly.

As mentioned by Neil most use a base of satin black as a base for the original Dark Charcoal Metallic (what Ford called black interiors)

Remember to strip the textured panels first - before painting and apply the black and Charcoal only enough to get full good coverage. IF not you will fill the texture producing a somewhat (or very) smooth finish . Not ahat your looking for,

Not easy - but well worth the effort
 
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Scott

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
126
Location
Coogee Beach, Sydney, Australia
Thanks for the tips - think I'll make it shine a bit more than I've got currently then. It is really flat black now so I'll give it another light flick with the same tone, less flat to make it more engine bay satin.

Thanks again for all your help - it is real close!!
 

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Scott

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
126
Location
Coogee Beach, Sydney, Australia
Special again!

Here it is... all together again.

Just a couple of things to be done interior and electrically and I'll try to get some better shots including these bits... exhaust tips next week might be the end of the job - cosmetically that is.

Have a new noise as the gearbox engages that is a vibrating whine? and need to get it checked out - torque converter maybe? It would also appear that the impact has cooked the limited slip of the diff. Pretty sure it is a 2.79 - may I call for opinions on a good middle of the road ratio for a driver?

Many thanks for the suport and advice!
 

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JohnnyQuest515

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
302
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
I am in the same boat with painting the interior and bought the paint through Virginia Classic Mustang, but haven't tried it out yet.

Randy
 

JohnnyQuest515

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
302
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
I am changing my rear end to a 3.50 (traction lok) next year, a 3.10 or 3.25 would be a good ratio.

Mine is a 2.75! What a difference it will make...

Randy
 
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Scott

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
126
Location
Coogee Beach, Sydney, Australia
Fitted a sun racing tacho yesterday - hose clamped to the steering column! But it was interesting to see that the furthest I've ever revved the engine since rebuild is 4000 RPM! Under hard acceleration it is changing up at only 3.5k from first to second and I'm not game try a hard change to 3rd after the accident.

Insurance company now dragging their heels to cover the power steering pump, diff and gearbox trouble caused in the accident... they're making a decision on monday but I'll go ahead regardless.
 
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