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1968 Where are the markings on the '68 CS

bobby

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2016
Messages
5
Location
St Augustine, Florida
CS Back.jpgHi everybody I'm new to this site and would like to tell everyone hello. This site is unbelievably helpful. I'm currently doing a complete disassembly of this California Special. Any advice anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
I have a few questions:
1). What and where are any markings on the car that I need to record and/or take off before I have the car dipped?
2). If I powder coat body bracket parts, suspension, and motor brackets does it take away from the cars value? Planning on same color as original.
3). Can anyone recommend a good place to get the aluminum trim dents repaired and buffed out in or near NE Florida?

Thanks in advance for any input,
Bobby
 

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retroman99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
190
Location
Redondo Beach, CA
Might suggest you look at purchasing the GT/CS recognition guide and owners manual. I've seen them on ebay for $75. it has a lot of great information on restoration. I just finshed mine and used it along with great advice from this site
 

whodat

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
635
There is a person on Vintage Mustang Forums that restores trim. I powder coated many items and wasn't worried about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
As for marking there is no "standard" you have to strip the car carefully and look at what you find on your car.

Common areas for marks are:
- lower radiator support
- RH apron on the outside area above the battery tray
- differential
- driveshaft (paint stripes)
- brake backing plates (paint daubs)
- differential, paper tag and chalk marks (mostly near breather connection)
- transmission (usually gone if rebuilt)
- engine (usually gone if rebuilt)

There are more, just document what you find. In general most do not recommend copying marks from other cars as marks do vary.

I'd suggest quality paint instead of powdercoating. Bolt areas will chip when installed,a nd the PC can the slowly peel. Once powdwercoated to refinish is a repeat of the PC process, needs to be stripped and redone, pint can be touched up.

On the aluminum if you are talking the rocker trims you can do a decent DIY with a few dollies and small hammers. I use hardwood blocks sanded to various shapes. Not perfect but can clean u dings. Beware that if the repair ends up scuffing the anodized finish the entire part needs to be re-anodized, not sure about there but here it is hard to find folks who do it any more and due to the size of the parts costs can be significant.

This is pricey (may be able to shop around and find it for a bit less) but is a great reference for the GT/CS owner.

https://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Recognition-Guide-Owners-Manual/dp/0962473014
 
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bobby

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2016
Messages
5
Location
St Augustine, Florida
Thanks Whodat I'll check out the site. Going to the Turkey Rod Run Thanksgiving weekend to see if there are any shops represented nearby that restore trim as well.
 
OP
OP
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bobby

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2016
Messages
5
Location
St Augustine, Florida
Wow Delorso thanks. I will check all these places. Seems like a good lite and patience might be in my future. Wish Ford would have been consistent in locating ID markings.
 

68 special

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2004
Messages
524
I would suggest taking lots of pictures of the disassembly. I didn't and when it came time to put it back together after several months or longer, it wasn't fun.

Keep us posted on the progress.


Bret
 

J_Speegle

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Messages
488
... Wish Ford would have been consistent in locating ID markings.

Not sure which markings your referring to. Allot were applied not by Ford but by subcontractors. For line markings normally it came down to three workers so there is some variations but if you look at enough of them they often fall into definable patterns in my experience. I've collected and or documented likely 8,000 to 10,000 from mostly San Jose Mustangs.

IF you can find one of your buildsheets that will provide you with maybe a dozen of the original markings. Unfortunately that isn't likely since San Jose workers treated/handled them differently than the other two plants


To dalorzo_f's list I would add

- Every suspension part especially related to steering. Steering box

- In the interior - Rear seat cushion, passenger side bucket seat, dash gauge housing, fuse box, heater phelum, door panels, drivers side seat riser

- Body panels - Rear valance, hood, headlight buckets, passenger side cowl, fenders, trunk lid

- Steel rims as well as spare tire and rim

- Wheel side of the battery box panel

Some of these can be wiped or cleaned to make it easier to see once you find them. Others will disappear quickly if wiped at all so take pictures before doing each step.

That should keep you busy for a whilehttp://www.californiaspecial.com/forums/imagesCS/smilies/smile.gif
 
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