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How do you pull the Control Valve off the Pitman Arm?

nfrntau

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Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Messages
1,020
Location
Rosharon, Texas
There are a couple of ways David.
The first is to get a pitman arm removal tool and do it by the book.
The second is to use a 5 pound sledge. Loosen the nut to the last few screws (so when it comes loose it doesn't hit the floor). After you loosen the screw nail the end with a hammer from side. The impact will seperate the two parts. DO NOT hit the end with the threads on it as IT WILL mess them up rendering you a piece of trash.
I used this method to remove everything on my front end. Just watch your swing and be careful where you hit. You want to make sure to hit at the point where the taper fits through.
There may be other ways but these are the ones I know of.
Good luck.
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
David,

They make a special tool that is a "straddle" wedge or tie rod/ball joint removal tool. It works ok.

Most front end guys will loosen the castle nut and back it off to ensure in is not tight. If you can get an assistant to use a pry bar to put a “pry” against the joint while simultaneously hitting the side of the pitman arm right on the joint with a heavy (1 and ½ pound to 2 pound) “slugging” (code short handle and heavy) hammer it usually breaks away very easily from the taper. I use this method on ball joints and tie rod ends. Usually a few good hits and they break loose. Yes it does scar the paint or powder coating. My cars have none of that.

The straddle wedge by itself usually takes a lot of hitting if you don’t whack the side as described. I have two sizes of the wedge. Use the wedge and get a bit of a tension and one whack on the side and you are in business.

Rob
 

Perkchiro

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Joined
May 1, 2004
Messages
1,112
Location
Nixa, MO
David, The advice given here is great. If you have a O'Reilly Automotive near you they rent specialty tools for free. A pitman arm puller would be the best choice. I've done both methods using a sledge and the limited control factor with a sledge leaves some risk of damaging surrounding parts. It's tough lining up a sledge hammer under your car too. If it was a junk car, no harm really, but with your car, protect it as much as you can. Just my 2 cents.
 
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davidathans

davidathans

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Jul 25, 2004
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703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
thanks for the advice guys...sounds like i dont have the right tool to do the job...which is pretty depressing because i spent alot of time on my back getting really dirty and i wont be able to fix my car myself

i was trying to remove the control valve because my mustang parts guy asked me if it was the big hole or the small hole...and i had no idea so i was going to remove it from the car and bring it with me to get the correct part

its such a pain to work on a car yourself when you dont have the right tools and the car is just jacked up in your garage and you have to get on the floor and your wrench is too long and your trying to squeeze your arm through some small hole to get leverage on the wrench...

i spent about an hour trying to get the pin out of the nut on the pitman arm...and the hose that comes out of the top of the control valve is nearly impossible to get off with the control valve on the pitman arm...

im frustrated as hell and im mad that i have to spend alot of money just to get my car back on the road...all because of a tiny leak...gggrrr
 
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davidathans

davidathans

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San Fernando Valley, California
here are some pictures from my nightmares

the picture on the far right is where im at right now
 

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Midnight Special

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Nov 5, 2005
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Location
Grass Valley, California
here are some pictures from my nightmares

the picture on the far right is where im at right now

...David, I used a standard three prong gear puller from the top of the tapered stud (3-fingered) down to the base of the pitman arm (using the nut to protect the end threads). A combination of pressure from the puller and tapping on the wedges popped it loose... I didn't have the headers in the way, however...
 

CougarCJ

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Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,185
I think that we will find out that the big hole - small hole valve was only during the 1967 model year.

I can simpathize with you on your frustration. Been there done that.

When I go to strip out a car, I generally drop the whole steering section of the power steering as an assembly.

Steering box, drag link, valve, cylinder, and idler arm.

Of course I have to separate the tie rods from the drag link.

Everything takes about 30 minutes. It really helps if the engine is out first.

Much easier to get the shear pin out of the drag link and use a separater on a work bench. Hose removal and installation too.
From the pictures it looks like you also need a new cylinder boot.

Doesn't take long to detail the steering components either. Fresh cotter pins, service the steering box with grease, inspect the rag joint.
 
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davidathans

davidathans

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San Fernando Valley, California
David,
Have you given up and taken it to a shop? I may have a couple more suggestions.

Rob

im pretty much going to take it to a shop tomorrow...im just going to face the fact that im not going to be able to fix this myself on my back trying to wack something with a hammer...its nearly impossible because i cant even get any leverage on the hammer if i were to try and i know i would just screw it up worse...i think this job is best done with the car on a lift up in the air instead of me on my back

thanks cougarcj about the needing a new boot for the cylinder too

i have never touched the steering box...maybe i should have them service it when they replace the control valve, hoses, and put on the cylinder boot

what happens to the steering box over time if you never service it??...i've been wondering about this for quite some time because i have replaced just about everything except the steering box and i dont want the steering to just break on me one day and i wont be able to steer
 

rvrtrash

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Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
what happens to the steering box over time if you never service it??...i've been wondering about this for quite some time because i have replaced just about everything except the steering box and i dont want the steering to just break on me one day and i wont be able to steer


The grease dries up and the gears wear themselves out. The steering gets sloppy and in extreme cases you could loose all steering control. I'd pop the cover and put new grease in since you're working on it anyway. Mine had to be completely rebuilt-it was to far gone.

Steve
 
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davidathans

davidathans

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Jul 25, 2004
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703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
the steering on my car has always been loose...i always thought it was because it was a ball and joint type steering system as opposed to rack & pinion....but is it that the gears are wearing themselves out in the steering box and thats why the steering is loose?
 

Midnight Special

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Nov 5, 2005
Messages
3,713
Location
Grass Valley, California
The grease dries up and the gears wear themselves out. The steering gets sloppy and in extreme cases you could loose all steering control. I'd pop the cover and put new grease in since you're working on it anyway. Mine had to be completely rebuilt-it was to far gone.

Steve

...I agree. My yellow Mach w/ 221K miles now goes down the highway in a way simular to flying a small airplane with a severe crosswind. I've never heard of a box failing completely without plenty of warning, however...
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
David,
Cougar CJ, Steve, Tim are right on. CJ has the correct route for total refurbishment. And all on the workbench not lying under the car!!!

Power steering Mustang cars in my experience are “loose” even when perfect. If you want to rebuild the stock system, when you get the stud out of the pitman arm and see how the control valve works, you may be disappointed. The stud that connects to the pitman arm is the part that activates the ram to push or pull. This stud is attached to the control valve with a spring on either side of two cups that “encase” a machined ball on the end of this stud. If you turn right or left, the stud pushes lightly against the cup and compresses the spring in that direction. This slight movement tells the ram to push or pull to assist you in moving the drag link and viola, power assist.

All and all a slightly less than optimum feel at the wheel. Wow a rhyme!!

I converted my 67 Fastback to manual. Steve is right on with the dry grease. In fact V8 cars have the exhaust so close to the steer box that they cook the grease. I scored a 70 six cylinder manual box and they have not been cooked as much and have moved under lighter weight. Rebuilt it and it is very tight. But the 5 turns lock to lock makes it feel not so sporty in the corners. I doubt a steering box would suddenly fail, but a power car can get real sloppy between the control valve and the steering box.

So you ran 11’s with power steering. Did you take the belt off?? If not, there is another tenth or so. As you seem to be a man after my own heart and like straight-line speed, I would convert to manual steering and put the stock stuff in a box.

They do make a conversion to eliminate you power steering and use your rebuild 3 turns lock to lock box. Very hard at slow speeds, but once moving the best of the stock steering!! I did this with my first Mustang way back (yes, way back) in the early 70’s. Very hard at slow speeds, but no messy power robbing, power steering. A young guy like you can handle it!! And the engine is easier to keep clean!!

Or rack and pinion. Manual rack is just as tough as the above. Power rack is the best, but $1.5 to $2k. And it robs power.

Rob
 
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davidathans

davidathans

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Joined
Jul 25, 2004
Messages
703
Location
San Fernando Valley, California
David,
Cougar CJ, Steve, Tim are right on. CJ has the correct route for total refurbishment. And all on the workbench not lying under the car!!!

Power steering Mustang cars in my experience are “loose” even when perfect. If you want to rebuild the stock system, when you get the stud out of the pitman arm and see how the control valve works, you may be disappointed. The stud that connects to the pitman arm is the part that activates the ram to push or pull. This stud is attached to the control valve with a spring on either side of two cups that “encase” a machined ball on the end of this stud. If you turn right or left, the stud pushes lightly against the cup and compresses the spring in that direction. This slight movement tells the ram to push or pull to assist you in moving the drag link and viola, power assist.

All and all a slightly less than optimum feel at the wheel. Wow a rhyme!!

I converted my 67 Fastback to manual. Steve is right on with the dry grease. In fact V8 cars have the exhaust so close to the steer box that they cook the grease. I scored a 70 six cylinder manual box and they have not been cooked as much and have moved under lighter weight. Rebuilt it and it is very tight. But the 5 turns lock to lock makes it feel not so sporty in the corners. I doubt a steering box would suddenly fail, but a power car can get real sloppy between the control valve and the steering box.

So you ran 11’s with power steering. Did you take the belt off?? If not, there is another tenth or so. As you seem to be a man after my own heart and like straight-line speed, I would convert to manual steering and put the stock stuff in a box.

They do make a conversion to eliminate you power steering and use your rebuild 3 turns lock to lock box. Very hard at slow speeds, but once moving the best of the stock steering!! I did this with my first Mustang way back (yes, way back) in the early 70’s. Very hard at slow speeds, but no messy power robbing, power steering. A young guy like you can handle it!! And the engine is easier to keep clean!!

Or rack and pinion. Manual rack is just as tough as the above. Power rack is the best, but $1.5 to $2k. And it robs power.

Rob

Rob thank you for that. I really enjoyed how detailed you went into how every thing works, even inside the control valve. I ran 11s with the power steering all stock the way its supposed to be...but i did take the endlinks off the sway bar...I have been told to take the belt off the power steering pump at the track, but i've never really wanted to once i got there...its a pain dealing with those pulleys isnt it? its really tight between that big aluminum radiator i have and the stock fan/shroud...

i know im young and can deal with it...but i just dont feel the need because after all its nice to have some sort of "luxury" feeling in a ford...if i were racing a BMW M series...i would have so many luxury features PLUS comfort and air conditioning PLUS daily driveablity PLUS gas mileage PLUS safety PLUS prestige PLUS incredible braking ability PLUS 6 speed manual or 7 speed SMG gearbox....the list goes on...

to me the mustang is completely old school technology....just straight grunt and torque with a really mean loud sound, distinctive in its own way...Just straight DUMPING fuel haha

so i never really gave it much thought until recently when my friend said he was looking to buy a classic mustang and i started researching them to help him (telling him to go on this website and look at the CS that i think broadwayblue was selling for $16.5k) and the optional equipment became important. Power steering and Power Disc brakes especially.

BTW i have a question, i have heard that if your mustang originally had manual steering...that it is easier driving it, than a mustang that came with power steering and you just had the belt off it...is this true?

and here is the UPDATE on my car's status:

i flat bed toed it to the shop and pushed it onto a car lift and Mason gets out an air hammer and gives the pitman arm just one fast powerful tap and it just comes right out...if i had these two crucial tools (car lift, airhammer) i could have fixed the car myself, but on your back in your garage under a car that is jacked up about a foot...too hard on the body and the patience haha

anyways i get to Mustang's Etc in van nuys and the control valve they told me they had to sell me for $225 rebuilt including $150core charge had a missing grease fitting nipple and the threads were messed up so it was no good...but they were able to call someone local and bring another control valve over, so i lucked out...i bought the two small hoses for the power ram and a new return hose and the power ram boot kit...total cost $350

now i have the labor for the repair + power steering fluid + front end alignment.

Would have been nice to do rack and pinion steering for $2k..you know just spend the damn money and be happy, but i am putting that down the line...there are other priorities that come first

im only 22 and im still a student in college so having to spend over $500 on something unexpected, sucks.

But the feeling i'll get when i drive my mustang to this college party tomorrow night is priceless and knowing that my car is faster than any stock bmw you can buy even if its an M makes my california special even more special
 
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robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
David,
So 11’s with the belt on. The reason a power steering car with the belt off steers hard is total movement left to right is 3 turns lock to lock. A manual steering box takes 5 turns of the wheel to go lock to lock. There are some GT manual boxes that are 4 turns lock to lock.

I put a 5-turn lock to lock manual box on my 67 Fastback. It takes the “sports car” feel out of the corners but it is tight and eliminates all the stuff of power steering. Hoses, weight horsepower loss, and leaks.

At the same time my GT/CS has power. They feel way more responsive than a manual car.

You can make your car a manual car with the power steering 3-turn lock to lock. Feels great when you move, but very heavy when moving at slow speeds or parking.

11’s and 22 years old!!! Your car is so cool!!! You are old school through and through!!! And your car must sound awesome and be the envy of any college party you attend!!

Rob
 

rvrtrash

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Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
I've never heard of a box failing completely without plenty of warning, however...


There would probably be warning, but the trick is to recognize it. About 25 years ago a guy I worked with was hitting the corners at a decent rate of speed and his steering box failed. It killed him and turned his girlfriend into a quadriplegic. Since then, I've been a little obsessive about my steering and brakes.

Steve

It was a Mopar, but it really doesn't matter. The idea is the same.
 
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