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Old 05/20/2017, 06:14 AM   #106
whodat
 
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Well the metal around the glass is perfect. All the metal on the car is now rust free. Even the cowl vent air ducts holes are in great condition. I informed the body shop about it. Since the car is inside we are going to readdress it after the motor is in. That should be next. What is the correct sealant to use?


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Old 05/20/2017, 11:22 AM   #107
robert campbell
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It looks like during the paint removal you actually removed some of the paint on the right side that is not covered by the trim? I think your painter would prefer to fix that with not widow or gasket in place.

Maybe the angle was wrong and you did not mar the paint? If you did the paint repair will be a lot better if the gasket and window are not in.

Rob
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Old 05/20/2017, 11:45 AM   #108
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I've always used 3M's black windshield sealant.
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Old 05/21/2017, 05:36 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
I've always used 3M's black windshield sealant.
+1
3M 8509 NPD has it.

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Old 05/21/2017, 07:34 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruppstang View Post
+1
3M 8509 NPD has it.
Hi, what is the correct/best way to appply ther sealant; in between the metal, gasket and window?

Would you have a sketch of that? Is it applied on separate parts first or after everything is together?

Thanks
Pierre gtcs1

1968 GT/CS - Highland Green - C Code 289
1973 Mustang Convertible - Bright Green Gold Metallic - H Code 351-2V
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Old 05/21/2017, 09:43 AM   #111
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Between the metal and the rubber. A bead in the gasket and another bead on the metal.
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Old 05/21/2017, 11:41 AM   #112
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Hi Mosesatm, thanks.

Opps, I hope I didn't mis-used (hijack) this thread ???


What about between the glass and the gasket?

And are you doing that before putting the seal on the car.

My car had the windshield reinstalled after a headliner change, using new gaskets. I didn't witness this job, but no sealant was installed at all. I didn't catch that until some time later. Oversight from my part to check this better

Wondering what to do to waterproof this installation, as good as when it left the factory, if that can be...

Am I better to redo this job, i.e. remove the whole thing and retart or just try to insert sealant somehow ?

Thanks

Last edited by gtcs1; 05/21/2017 at 12:24 PM..

1968 GT/CS - Highland Green - C Code 289
1973 Mustang Convertible - Bright Green Gold Metallic - H Code 351-2V
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Old 05/22/2017, 06:34 AM   #113
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Put the water hose on it and if it leaks then address it. If it don't leak then your good to go.


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Old 05/22/2017, 11:39 AM   #114
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What Dom said.

I've never needed to use sealant between the glass and the rubber. It's a tight fit.
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Old 05/22/2017, 08:38 PM   #115
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I always use the sealant in the glass groove but it is really messy. The last two I did I used 3M strip caulk in the glass grove and it seem to have worked very well and not nearly as messy.

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Old 05/23/2017, 07:06 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert campbell View Post
It looks like during the paint removal you actually removed some of the paint on the right side that is not covered by the trim? I think your painter would prefer to fix that with not widow or gasket in place.



Maybe the angle was wrong and you did not mar the paint? If you did the paint repair will be a lot better if the gasket and window are not in.



Rob


They fixed the paint issue with new paint


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Old 07/06/2017, 06:34 PM   #117
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Wiring harness pulled today to send off to be checked out.



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Last edited by whodat; 07/07/2017 at 04:14 PM..
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Old 07/18/2017, 10:52 PM   #118
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Wiring harness checked out. Added some connections for amp/volt meter upgrade. Returned all done.


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Old 09/02/2017, 09:45 PM   #119
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Engine back in today. Now to start putting everything in its place under the hood.


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Old 09/03/2017, 05:23 AM   #120
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Congrats it is all ways a very happy day when the engine is back in it's place.
Marty

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