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Current and proposed mods. Opinions PLEASE!! (LONG)

66 Dearborn HCS

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2003
Messages
170
OK, I'm curious what you guys think about some of my mods so far. Acceptable or stupid?? suggestions anyone?

The car is a '66 ?HCS? The "freak" status has been discussed previously so I won't go into that now. Bob Teets is really wanting me to keep this car stock, but I just HAVE to play a bit.

Power package- The motor is a warmed over C8 302 with stock heads from '68 (hardened seats). Melling cam (sim. to Perf RPM's). Stock crank, stock front dress (pullies,pumps,timing cover). Flat top 10:1 pistons. RPM Air Gap intake with 600 CFM Perfomer carb. Rearend will be swapped for an 8" 3.80-4:11 posi. A T-5 will keep things comfy on the highway.

Exhaust- I was planning on the shelby-style side exhaust (Tri-y's into glasspacks then angled out to the side. I'd dump the Glasspacks though and go with some Dynomax's and an x-pipe crossover. Another option is SuperTrapp style tips without standard mufflers. That would make the plumbing alot easier. I don't want a really loud exhaust (NO FLOWMASTER'S). I've NEVER heard a set of Supertrapps and don't know how loud they are. I'd run this system behind Tri-y's and 2.25" tubing. I was going to run duals all the way out the back with the GT style exhaust exit through the valance with the trumpet tips. The trumpets are only 2" though and would choke off the whole point of running 2.25" before it.

Interior- I'm planning on a stock interior. The original color is black, but I like the idea of light saddle (tan) color against the exterior green. What about running saddle vinyl seats (front and rear) and door panels and repainting the lower dash (not the pad) saddle tan. I would leave the doors and the rear interior panels black but have a saddle headliner (if they make it). Black carpet and kick panels. It would be a contrast of black, saddle (tan), and the light green exterior.

Suspension- I'll run 600-620 1" drop front coils and 4 1/2 or 5 leaf mid-eye rear springs. KYB GR-2 shocks all around (probably). I'll do the shelby lowered upper arm mod. and run 16" Edelbrock 454 wheels or Colorado Custom Slater series.

Exterior will be the correct Timberline Green but I've thought of adding the dealer option accent racing stripe offered in 65-66. Part #C5ZZ19E504 in white. I'd have it offset to the driver's side. It runs from the front of the hood all the way back to the bottom of the taillight panel. It looks like it's about 3" wide with a 3/4" gap on either side then another 1" stripe outside of that. I'd line it up halfway between the centerline and the edge of the car on the driver's side (basically lined up with the driver;s position. It looks sharp and is different than the oh-so-common le mans stripes. It needs a new grille so I'd replace it with the shelby offset pony also. I've already mentioned the '68 HCS/CS style trunklid. I'll probably add a front spoiler also in body color. I'm considering a '65-'66 Shelby hood, but if I can fit the high rise intake and air cleaner assembly under the stock hood, I will keep it. I was also considering '67 Shelby rear taillights, but have dumped that idea since Scott Drake came out with sequential lights to fit the original taillight by splitting the light bucket into 3 seperate sections with a bulb in each. I'll keep the stock chrome rocker panel plates also.


Opinions please? Be honest!!! :-X
 

BrandonB

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
292
Ok IMO I personaly belive keeping it original BUT it is your car I would recomend that if you must play with it to keep the original parts and try not to destroy anything. You can still modify stuff just make sure that if you ever change your mind you can put it back to its original form. I personaly wouldnt recomend boring or anything like that to the original block but again it is YOUR car and YOUR choice in the end be happy have fun enjoy your car.

-BrandonB
 
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66 Dearborn HCS

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2003
Messages
170
[quote author=BrandonB link=board=1;threadid=722;start=0#msg3936 date=1071238817]
I personaly wouldnt recomend boring or anything like that to the original block
-BrandonB
[/quote]

The original block is MIA. It was missing when I bought the car. That's the reason I've done so much to the block in it.

.060" overbore with flat top 10:1 pistons.

I WISH I had the original block. I would've gone stock if I could've found an unmolested 289. Most of the 289 blocks out there now are trashed beyond use, unless you sleeve all the bores- no thanks.
 

Calspecialdreamer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2003
Messages
207
66

I would suggest shorty headers instead of tri-y because of the heat generated. Unless you are an 18 -27 year old, I think you will appreciate the difference. Also, I believe flowmaster 40 series are much quieter than the 50 series (or vice versa).
 
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66 Dearborn HCS

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2003
Messages
170
[quote author=CalGTCSdreamer link=board=1;threadid=722;start=0#msg3939 date=1071257446]
66

I would suggest shorty headers instead of tri-y because of the heat generated. Unless you are an 18 -27 year old, I think you will appreciate the difference. Also, I believe flowmaster 40 series are much quieter than the 50 series (or vice versa).


[/quote]

Well I'm in Denver right now and it's about 11 degrees, so heat sounds GOOD right now! :eek: ;D
 

BrandonB

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
292
Well if you dont have the original block then have fun with the motor do all you could to it thats what I would do atleast ;D

-BrandonB
 
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