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Steering Column Wiring

BroadwayBlue

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
2,900
Location
Hudson Valley Area, NY
I'm on a question roll sorry :cool:

If you have to replace wiring in your steering column or if your connector on the end of your steering column wiring is bad, is the only option to by an old column and steal the parts from that?

Ideally I'd like to get the wiring with the connector to the harness under the dash. I've searched but don't see anything that comes close.

Is it a matter of connecting directly to the wiring under the dash and removing the connector?

Or do they sell the connector itself?

Thanks in advance!
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,009
Rich, I can't answer your question but if you find you need a used column I have one I'll give you.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Rich,
Over the years most of my “Mustang” purchases have been from either Tony Branda or Virginia Mustang. All you need is a turn signal switch. The switch comes without the connector. Normally your old connector is in good shape. Is yours totally unserviceable? Burned and melted? They come without the connector because you have to feed the wires down the column to install the switch and the connector won’t fit. In fact it takes a bit of patience to get just the wires down the column!!

The “switch” side of the old connector is designed with “snap and lock” pins. When you get the new switch, examine the pins and you will see the “lock” tabs. You must lay on the front floor, with the connector apart, and carefully insert either a straight pin or a small diameter (just will slip over the pin) piece of tubing (steel or something rigid) over the pin to allow it to pull free. I take the driver seat out these days when I dive under the dash. Four nuts and a lot more comfort for my old body. The car side of the connector still has the pins in their proper placement. (VERY IMPORTANT) When you pull the old switch out, tie a string or piece of wire to it so you have something to help you pull the new wires down the column. The path to drag them down is so tight you have to stagger the pins in order to keep the “lump” of pins as small as possible when you drag them down. Lots of patience and gentle pulling. Just replaced mine in my GT/CS a year ago. Second time since I have owned it!!! We drive it a lot!!

Once all wires and pins are down they snap gentle in place in the old connector. The “car” side of the connector has the proper order. You will find the colors to be older and sometimes not a true match. Enough of them are that you can figure the odd ones out.

I am going to go downstairs in my shop. I may have an old connector lying around (many years of Mustanging). Even if yours has a burn mark or two as long as it is not totally melted it is ok.

Of note, any 67 to 70ish Ford or Mercury car or Ford truck normally has the same connector. Snip snip, in your pocket and out you go. In the Northwest we still have a few old cars laying around in the wrecking yards.

Rob
 

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,186
Rich,
Over the years most of my “Mustang” purchases have been from either Tony Branda or Virginia Mustang. All you need is a turn signal switch. The switch comes without the connector. Normally your old connector is in good shape. Is yours totally unserviceable? Burned and melted? They come without the connector because you have to feed the wires down the column to install the switch and the connector won’t fit. In fact it takes a bit of patience to get just the wires down the column!!

The “switch” side of the old connector is designed with “snap and lock” pins. When you get the new switch, examine the pins and you will see the “lock” tabs. You must lay on the front floor, with the connector apart, and carefully insert either a straight pin or a small diameter (just will slip over the pin) piece of tubing (steel or something rigid) over the pin to allow it to pull free. I take the driver seat out these days when I dive under the dash. Four nuts and a lot more comfort for my old body. The car side of the connector still has the pins in their proper placement. (VERY IMPORTANT) When you pull the old switch out, tie a string or piece of wire to it so you have something to help you pull the new wires down the column. The path to drag them down is so tight you have to stagger the pins in order to keep the “lump” of pins as small as possible when you drag them down. Lots of patience and gentle pulling. Just replaced mine in my GT/CS a year ago. Second time since I have owned it!!! We drive it a lot!!

Once all wires and pins are down they snap gentle in place in the old connector. The “car” side of the connector has the proper order. You will find the colors to be older and sometimes not a true match. Enough of them are that you can figure the odd ones out.

I am going to go downstairs in my shop. I may have an old connector lying around (many years of Mustanging). Even if yours has a burn mark or two as long as it is not totally melted it is ok.

Of note, any 67 to 70ish Ford or Mercury car or Ford truck normally has the same connector. Snip snip, in your pocket and out you go. In the Northwest we still have a few old cars laying around in the wrecking yards.

Rob

Good information Rob, narrow the year range down to 68-69. I think they are both the same. Better check for sure though.
1967 is rectangular.
1970 is redesigned no doubt due to the switch on the column.

1968 is crecent shaped or curved.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
More good info!! 67 is definitely different. Went down and looked at mine. 68/69 years would be the best bet as you stated. My 68 is the "curvy" (cresent) one also.

Rob

got a prime rib a smokin on the BBQ!! Pure apple wood, no briquets, no gas for Rob!!! Gas only goes in the cars!!!
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
Just an FYI, there is a tool called a pin extractor that is made for removing pins from the connector. Any good electronic shop should have a few for sale. Well worth the small price instead of fighting each pin. I keep a couple in my tool boxes.

Steve
 

Ersel66

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
61
How difficult would you say this project is? On a 1-5 scale for the average do-it yourselfer?
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
The pin extractor is a must. You do not want to damage the connector and they are a bit fragile, old and need to be reused. Need a steering wheel puller. The hardest part for me is to feed the new wires down the column. I have to do couple at a time. All of them at once just never seems to work for me.

I would rate this as about a 3. With a 1 being changing a lite bulb and a 5 rebuilding an engine....

Rob
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
When pulling the Turn Signal switch/wires (after having already removed the plastic connector), I secure a small gage wire to the wire bundle and pull it up thru the column. Then I attach the wire to the new bundle and pull it back down thru the column. After you have the new bundle pulled thru into place, insert the pins into the connector.

Neil
 

Ersel66

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
61
Curious what is a Pin Extractor and what does it look like and how many pins am I extracting?
Thanks all!
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
looks like a small screw driver. Crawl under your dash on the diver side and you will see the big connector that connects the turn signal switch wiring to the main harness. Look it over carefully and press the releases on the side to "gently" pull it apart. The connector going to the steering column has about 8 or 10 small male pins in it. The extractor has a hole in the end of it that slips over the male pin to depress the tab that locks it into the connector. One at a time your slip it over the pin and pull each pin out. Carefully.

DO NOTHING until you draw a picture of the connector to match the wires color codes to the proper hole. the new switch wiring more than likely will not be totally faithful to the colors. Most will and you can figure the rest out.

rob
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
looks like a small screw driver. Crawl under your dash on the diver side and you will see the big connector that connects the turn signal switch wiring to the main harness. Look it over carefully and press the releases on the side to "gently" pull it apart. The connector going to the steering column has about 8 or 10 small male pins in it. The extractor has a hole in the end of it that slips over the male pin to depress the tab that locks it into the connector. One at a time your slip it over the pin and pull each pin out. Carefully.

DO NOTHING until you draw a picture of the connector to match the wires color codes to the proper hole. the new switch wiring more than likely will not be totally faithful to the colors. Most will and you can figure the rest out.

Rob
 

Ersel66

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
61
Thanks for the link. Curious...what color tool will I use for this project (yellow, red or green)?
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
The Radio shack one is similar to what mine are like. The plunger pushes the pin out once the outer sleeve has compressed the tab, so you don't have to pull on the wire and risk breaking it. It's more important on small gauge stuff like I work with than on 18 gauge, but still a consideration.

Steve
 
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