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Old 12/19/2004, 06:04 PM   #1
nfrntau
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Light/Ignition switches

I'm in need of help again..... Still. I have been disassembling my dash. I am happy to report the dash pad came off in one piece and will be reinstalled as is.
I'm having trouble with the light and ignition switches. My books say to push a button on the bottom of the light switch behind the dash panel and pull out the light switch shaft then remove the bezel. I can't find the button thier talking about. On the ignition switch, they say to insert a paper clip when switched to ACC and pull. Nothing happens??? The photo shows the hole in the bottom under the key hole mine is at the top if that makes a difference.
Can anyone lead me through this or tell me what I'm doing wrong? I Appreciate the input.
Bill
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Old 12/19/2004, 06:32 PM   #2
PFSlim
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Re:Light/Ignition switches

Yep. I'm your guy.

For the light switch, do the following. Remove your Defroster/Heater control panel on dash. Reach in through this hole to the back side of the ignition switch. The button is usually located pointed towards the steering wheel column. Make sure the light switch is in the off position. Push hard on the button, and pull switch knob. You can feel if the button is not depressed in enough. Keep trying and the knob will finally release. After the knob shaft is out, use a BIG screwdriver to remove the switch shaft holder. It just unscrews from the main body of the swich. Switch will be released and you can drop it down to bottom of dash (near brake area) disconnect the electrical plug, and remove.

Now, as for the ignition. You do not have to remove the way you spoke of. First, you need an ignition switch tool. It hooks on to the bezel of the switch and turns. Once it is removed, the switch will drop down as well. Unplug and remove.

I have one of these tools and would be happy to send. I ordered from Mustangs Unlimted and it is heavy tool, but once you use it, I am pretty much done with it (at least for now). If you are replacing the bezel, you can remove with a screw driver but it really chews it up. I don't know the condition of your bezel. Your call.

I am going out of town for a week starting Dec 21 and will return Dec 28. Will be happy to send to you then.

By removing the ignition switch the way you described will only remove the ignition cylinder away from switch. To repaint or do anything to the dash, the bezel must be removed.

Let me know what else I can do for you.

Paul

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Old 12/20/2004, 02:47 PM   #3
nfrntau
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Re:Light/Ignition switches

Paul,
Thanks for the offer. I was able to use two screwdrivers carefully and remove the ignition bezel. It turns out it wasn't very tight. I would love to borrow your bezel tool when it comes time to reinstall.
As it turned out I had to remove the wire harness before I could get the right angle and grip on that
xx%@#*!&#XX headlight switch button! Your info was spot on.
Thanks again
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Old 12/21/2004, 08:19 AM   #4
PFSlim
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Re:Light/Ignition switches

Let me know when you are ready for it and it is yours. Glad I could help with your problem.

I had to troubleshoot and replace my new headlamp switch twice, therefore, picked up some idea of how to remove and install.

Did you decide if you were going to sandblast? My brother can provide info on how/what kind of media to provide. He is PB gt/cs on this site.

As well, I would recommend a rotissorie, if at all available. We had one and it was very nice to be able to roll the car upside down to sandblast, cut and weld, paint underneath. I know they are hard to come buy though.

Paul
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Old 12/22/2004, 10:36 AM   #5
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Re:Light/Ignition switches

Bill, the media we used was called Black Beauty. It is mostly for one time use. It is Coal Slag finely ground. Non-toxic to you and to the surroundings (scooped it up and put it in the flower beds). It costs about 7 dlrs per 100 lbs.

The rotisseries are not easy to find, but once you ve seen one, they are not hard to build. If you belong to a local Mustang club suggest you all should have one. Look at our gallery, you can see how ours was built. It was built by the guy we bot the car from. Worked great. Paul is correct, I cant even imagine doing the underside work without it. Good luck.

Brian
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