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1968 Factory Disc brakes

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
+1 on drums being OK for most applications.

Have OEM manual on my GT/CS and while not "great" are more than adequated for general nice-weather around town driving. Look well ahead, drive a little slower, brake a little sooner... no problems...
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,032
Neil
You must be talking about using a after market booster because if you use the Midlands or Bendex you need to change the pedal and brake switch. It's the same setup for power dics or power drums. I had a 67 6cil Mustang that I added a booster and the drum brakes worked very well even with the small 6cil brakes. Marty
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
Power Brake Conversion Kit, no pedal modifications required, NPD P/N 2005-23AB, $319.95.
This will be my 3rd conversion for a '68 Mustang, drum brakes. Kit comes with new booster, new dual M/C, adapter link for existing standard brake pedal, utilzes existing brake light switch, no proportioning valve required. Easy installation, much improved braking action.
For a daily or occassionaly driven car this seems to be the most practical approach costwise, coupled with good braking performance.

Neil
 
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retroman99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
190
Location
Redondo Beach, CA
excellent thoughts Neil i bought a midland booster and master cycnliner they are being rebuilt as we speak. I could stop there and see if i like it. hadnt really thought about just powering up those old drums
 

68 special

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2004
Messages
524
I must have got lucky in my swap to disc brakes. I found a complete set, L & R on c/l for $80, then found a new set of rotors, c/l again for $60, and replaced 1 caliper for $150, $20 for caliper rebuild kit, $40 for cross-over tubes. Already had the booster and proportioning valve. So, less than $400 plus my time, I have disc brakes. I did it for the safetey aspect more than anything. Best investment I've made. My .02 worth.


Bret
 

clubpro

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2003
Messages
665
Arlie,

They are the lines that run from one side of the caliper to the other.

Cheers,

Ron
 

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retroman99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
Messages
190
Location
Redondo Beach, CA
Booster problem so i got the booster and MC but the booster didnt have the rod that goes between the MC and booster. I got the plate and the brake pedal connecting rod but no push rod. Rebuild shop didnt have any laying around guy i bought the booster and MC from told me that that they were plentyful. Well now i have nice rebuilt unit but no push rod any leads on where i can pick one up without having to buy a complete booster
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
Is this the PB part you need?

Neil
 

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68 special

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2004
Messages
524
Marti is correct on the kelsey-Hayes 4 puck system. Guess I should have added that little tidbit of info. Chose that because it all bolts right up to the '68 drum spindles so I didn't have to mess with swapping them. I'm really happy with the system.

Bret
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
I'll check the P/B type tomorrow. The rod length IS adjustable- note the capnut on the end of the rod.

Neil

PS:
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
The rod is from a Midland PB booster. If you want it, PM me your mailing address and its yours. Consider it a belated Birthday present!!

Neil
 

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ggieras

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
10
go to chockerstang.com great informative site,owner is real nice as well,if you call them he will tell you the original setup depending on what year you have,good luck.
 

ggieras

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
10
correction on that website,it is chockostang.com,sorry for the confusion,its been a while
 
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