dualies
Active member
My HCS has some brakw problem, can someone recomand a good repair shop near Torrance /Gardena area??
COMMUNITY
1968 GT/CS & HCS
2007+ GT/CS
1966-1967 HCS
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CS repair shop by Gardena California
- Thread starter dualies
- Start date
franklinair
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2007
- Messages
- 4,744
What kind of problem(s)?
Neil Hoppe
Neil Hoppe
robert campbell
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
- Messages
- 4,321
What a beautiful car!!! Neil is all over brakes!! What's the problem??
Rob
Rob
dualies
Active member
Kind of soft after stepped on it, took it to a shop nearby, and he replaced a master cylinder, making it worse.also the engine runs at very high RPM at idle.
as the car was sit there for about a year.
as the car was sit there for about a year.
robert campbell
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
- Messages
- 4,321
So you noted the idle, and it is a power disc car. Try disconnecting the vacuum hose to the power assist cylinder (vacuum booster) between the firewall and your master cylinder. Make sure you plug it off at the engine to eliminate the hose. Do this when the car is nice and warm so you do not have the fast idle working on the choke. If this normalizes the idle back to nice and slow, you should look at the vacuum assist area. Don’t drive the car!! If will have very heavy feeling brakes!!
First look at the hose between the engine and the power assist booster. The fitting in the vacuum booster will pop out if you gently rock it side to side. It is in a grommet. I would recommend cutting the hose from the fitting. It is fragile and very hard to pull out of this fitting which is a one way valve. Plug one end of the hose and suck on it to see if it has any holes in it.
Second take a look at the valve that the hose connects to on the vacuum booster. It is a one way valve made of plastic. Has a rubber flapper in it that holds the charge of vacuum in the booster. Put the end that goes into the booster and suck on it. It should not allow you to do that. If it does, it is defective. It should only let air through when you suck on it from the engine side.
Did the fast idle problem start after the master cylinder replacement? Maybe the mechanic disturbed these pieces.
Now for the soft pedal. Did the mechanic bench bleed the master cylinder prior to installation? You can ask him. Then did he bleed the system after installation to remove air? If he did neither this may be the soft pedal problem. If he bench bleed the master cylinder. Sometimes if you just sit in the car at idle and cycle the brakes, you can work air out at the top of the brake system and it will bring the pedal back. Of course you need to solve any problems with the vacuum assist system.
Lastly, the relationship between the master cylinder and the vacuum assist booster is controlled by a shaft between them. That is why they are sold as a unit most of the time. If you replace the master cylinder this relationship must be maintained. That is another complete thread!! I was studying your engine pic in your gallery. There are two types of vacuum assist boosters. A “Midland Ross” and a “Bendix”. Yours looks like it might have a “belly band” which is the Midland Ross. Too hard for me to tell. Your car is so low owner it might be the original booster. With that you will want to replace with a similar unit or have it rebuilt.
I have rebuilt a few and it is a lot of fun. That also is another complete thread!! Due to it being a brake item I only do them for myself. Liability issues for me. But some of the big builders like Master Brake will do it or replace it. It should be done as a unit with the master cylinder.
Rob
First look at the hose between the engine and the power assist booster. The fitting in the vacuum booster will pop out if you gently rock it side to side. It is in a grommet. I would recommend cutting the hose from the fitting. It is fragile and very hard to pull out of this fitting which is a one way valve. Plug one end of the hose and suck on it to see if it has any holes in it.
Second take a look at the valve that the hose connects to on the vacuum booster. It is a one way valve made of plastic. Has a rubber flapper in it that holds the charge of vacuum in the booster. Put the end that goes into the booster and suck on it. It should not allow you to do that. If it does, it is defective. It should only let air through when you suck on it from the engine side.
Did the fast idle problem start after the master cylinder replacement? Maybe the mechanic disturbed these pieces.
Now for the soft pedal. Did the mechanic bench bleed the master cylinder prior to installation? You can ask him. Then did he bleed the system after installation to remove air? If he did neither this may be the soft pedal problem. If he bench bleed the master cylinder. Sometimes if you just sit in the car at idle and cycle the brakes, you can work air out at the top of the brake system and it will bring the pedal back. Of course you need to solve any problems with the vacuum assist system.
Lastly, the relationship between the master cylinder and the vacuum assist booster is controlled by a shaft between them. That is why they are sold as a unit most of the time. If you replace the master cylinder this relationship must be maintained. That is another complete thread!! I was studying your engine pic in your gallery. There are two types of vacuum assist boosters. A “Midland Ross” and a “Bendix”. Yours looks like it might have a “belly band” which is the Midland Ross. Too hard for me to tell. Your car is so low owner it might be the original booster. With that you will want to replace with a similar unit or have it rebuilt.
I have rebuilt a few and it is a lot of fun. That also is another complete thread!! Due to it being a brake item I only do them for myself. Liability issues for me. But some of the big builders like Master Brake will do it or replace it. It should be done as a unit with the master cylinder.
Rob
dualies
Active member
Thanks for all the infor, yes the fast idle happened after he replaced the master cylinder. not sure if the mechanic bleed the M/C prior or after, but I think he should have, I will ask him.But first I am going to try some of the thing you mentioned.
Thanks a lot Rob
Thanks a lot Rob
dualies
Active member
Fially got a chance to take the car to a brake shop, and find out nothing wrong with the master cylinder or the vacuum booster, but the engine still idle
real fast, on my way to a engine shop, then all of a suddent, idle back to normal, I have a motorcraft caburator, I think the automatic choke is the problem, and I test drive it again this morning, both idle and brake are fine now, I think the car been just sitting there for 1.5 year probably got something to do with it, I will just spray some WD40, hope the automatic choke won't get stuck agin , ever.
Thanks for all the infor.
real fast, on my way to a engine shop, then all of a suddent, idle back to normal, I have a motorcraft caburator, I think the automatic choke is the problem, and I test drive it again this morning, both idle and brake are fine now, I think the car been just sitting there for 1.5 year probably got something to do with it, I will just spray some WD40, hope the automatic choke won't get stuck agin , ever.
Thanks for all the infor.
