No Mustang Emblems & Rust Problem

My GT/CS has no mustang emblems on the fenders behind the front wheels. There are no holes for them either. When Doug (Sunlitgold) looked at my car last summer he said the fenders were the original ones. The car has been repainted once that I know of. Could the former owners have had the holes filled? What sense does that make?

Also, my car has some rust on the metal behind the back side windows. It looks like someone sanded it down and then painted over it. Has anyone ever had a Mustang rust in this area? On the inside there is a brace on each side of the car where I was told the moisture must have built up and rusted through to the outside. One side is a little worse then the other. Here are some pics.
The drip rail or whatever you call is rusty too. Can that part under the chrome be rebuilt?

Rhonda, the area behind your quarter windows is where the seam for the top is. Ford tack welds their seams and used to smooth them out with lead but only on the outside. Since two pieces of metal overlap, if you get any moisture in the seam from inside, it can sit there and rust from the inside out over time. This is a structural area so I would recommend having someone knowledgable cut the area out and weld in new steel. Luckily, it's a fairly flat area so they can just use flat stock. Since you would need to strip the interior out of the car to repair it, they can fix under your drip rails at the same time, although that part would be more difficult and expensive. On the fenders, I've seen people remove emblems/trim many times and fill the holes. Most don't go to the trouble of welding them over and just bondo over them. When you have your car repainted after the rust repair, it would be a good time to look for the stock hole location at the same time. We are talking about the "Mustang" script correct? CS's didn't use the running horse emblem.
Steve

Seems odd on the Mustang emblem question. I wonder even if they were filled in why someone would do that? I see your spoiler has the emblem (it is the same emblem as used on the fenders). I take it has been repainted at some point? Casey

I always thought, the area behind the quarter windows on my car looks like it was repaired at one time. It's kind of wavy if you look at an angle. Someone had told me that was where the seam for the top was, I wasn't sure it was true though. I guess it was.

Yes, the Mustang script, like the one on the trunk lid. Thanks Steve, thats explains alot.

Did the car ever have a vinyl top? Sometimes the tops will hold moisture behind them and rust. Looks like that could have happened and been poorly repaired.

It did`nt originally come with a vinyl top.

Mustanglvr said:

Yes, the Mustang script, like the one on the trunk lid. Thanks Steve, thats explains alot.

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I live to serve my brothers and sisters here.:grin: You may want to lift the front of the car, remove the front wheels and then remove the splash shield behind the wheel. The script pushes into a small "socket" in the fender that sometimes pulls out when the script is removed, like for painting. You should be able to see some of those sockets or the holes where they were. It will probably have a little string of bondo hanging out of it. With care, you could clean out the holes and reinstall your script without damaging the paint. Reproduction script comes with the sockets/ferrules/inserts/whatever you want to call them.

Steve

BroadwayBlue said:

I always thought, the area behind the quarter windows on my car looks like it was repaired at one time. It's kind of wavy if you look at an angle. Someone had told me that was where the seam for the top was, I wasn't sure it was true though. I guess it was.

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Almost every Ford has wavy C pillars where the 2 panels meet.

It's sort of like the end cap alignment issue in that for someone who wants to restore a car exactly as it came from the factory the end caps and the C pillar seams should look bad.

rvrtrash said:

I live to serve my brothers and sisters here.:grin: You may want to lift the front of the car, remove the front wheels and then remove the splash shield behind the wheel. The script pushes into a small "socket" in the fender that sometimes pulls out when the script is removed, like for painting. You should be able to see some of those sockets or the holes where they were. It will probably have a little string of bondo hanging out of it. With care, you could clean out the holes and reinstall your script without damaging the paint. Reproduction script comes with the sockets/ferrules/inserts/whatever you want to call them.

Steve

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I`ll do that, thanks.

Mosesatm said:

Almost every Ford has wavy C pillars where the 2 panels meet.

It's sort of like the end cap alignment issue in that for someone who wants to restore a car exactly as it came from the factory the end caps and the C pillar seams should look bad.

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Thanks Arlie!
It's amazing what you notice when you own a car as opposed to checking out someone else's.
I had someone ask me at a show once what it was and I kind of fumbled about it being where the roof was attached. Now I can tell them with more confidence :smile:

So mine was restored as it came from the factory ... well at least the c-pillars are! :grin:

HI Ronda, Chris from New Zealand, when was your car built?. If pre 15th of Feb 68 it is possable it did not come with the embelems at all. I have been told by a guy who knows Mustangs that some of the early ones did not have them. The same guy said that the ones that where shown at the launch of the GT/CS did not have them ( my car did not have them either , the guards look original too, have now fitted them.).
Chris

We had a real problem with rust on both sides of our car at that joint. Once sanded down, it was still very rough. After several coats of sandable primer, we finally got it smoothed out.

Paul

My car was built May 15th. So I don`t think that would apply to my car Chris.

Paul, that middle picture is a definite improvement. It looks great.

PFSlim said:

We had a real problem with rust on both sides of our car at that joint. Once sanded down, it was still very rough. After several coats of sandable primer, we finally got it smoothed out.

Paul

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Hey Paul,
Great work! It came out really nice. Glad to hear there is hope :smile: