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1968 Drum brake distribution block rebuild

dalorzo_f

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Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Have done the PB versions, but this is a bit different. Anyone know of a how-to on disassembly and repair (and if kits are even available)

Pulled the end cap and see a "screw" (slot) end of a brass lug. It does not want to move and I am unsure if it threads or not. I don't think so but odd it has the slot. As its brass, and soft, not interested in forcing it too much....
 
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Ruppstang

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May 22, 2009
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3,032
It has been a while since I did one of those. First remove the plastic switch then soak it in a 50-50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone for a few days. The tough thing about the drum brake one is you can only work from one side. Put it in a vice and using a punch lightly tap on the piston. Do not drive it in more than 1/16th then take the block by hand and pound it on a piece of soft wood the open end down. The pounding should move it outward. Repeat this process un till it move out far enough to pull it out with some needle nose pliers. Replace the seals and reinstall with the groove lined up with the switch plunger well. If you know some one with a ultra sonic parts cleaner I would clean it before reassembly. If it has been left open to the weather they can be all most impossible to get apart. I never tried it but if you rigged up a grease gun you might be able to pump it out. Good luck Marty
 

franklinair

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Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
I Googled 'brake proportioning valve' It came up with a 20 minute video by West Coast Classic Cougar for disassembly, cleaning and assembly. Try that.

Neil
 

Ruppstang

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May 22, 2009
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3,032
A proportioning valve is a different part but another difficult part to rebuild.
 

franklinair

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Mar 1, 2007
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I should have been more specific: The video includes the distribution block and proportioning valve. Worth the 20+/- minute video.

Neil
 
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dalorzo_f

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Jan 7, 2006
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Location
Brisbane Australia
Yep, think I saw that one, but its the PB version, which i have done beofre. But this is slightly different. Marty's reply was what I was looking for, the shaft "should" be able to slide in/out, not thread. It was the slot on the end that raised the question...

Thanks for the replies.
 
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dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Ordered a "new" block from WCCC. Shuttle/valve was really stuck so took the end lines and:

- crimped one
- drilled and tapped the other to take a zerc fitting
- whacked on the grease gun and popped the sucker out in 5 seconds, after a half hour of tapping, tweaking, banging on a wood block, heat...

Jsut a tip for anyone else who may need to get a stuck valve spool out of the block.
 
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