1968 In Search Of New Engine

Anyone have a 289 to sell? Anyone? Apparently I need a new/rebuilt engine for my CS.

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What's wrong with it?
Is it a matching # engine block (same ser. no. as car)?
Surely there are engine O/H shops in your area.

Neil

Where do I check for this number, Neil? And what do I match it against?

PM comin atcha.

Neil

PS: Does ayone have a photo they can post so Amy can see where the engine SN is stamped into the block?

Amy,

Look in the last picture in my gallery. The partial VIN will be stamped on the flat surface behind the intake manifold where the engine block meets the transmission.

Mike

Link to gallery
http://californiaspecial.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=118

it is found at the back of the block at the top on a flat spot

But..but..but...

What da heck happened? You pulled off the heads, and intake, and front end...and what did you find? A crack the size of the Grand Canyon in the block?

It's the "you took me out of California, and yer gonna pay" curse, no doubt.

I wonder if someone in MNW would have a block, or go looking out in the junkyards out Tacoma way?? Or on the outskirts of Seattle??

Post "I need a 1968 289 block" at every Starbucks bulletin board?

Paul "I got to drive it" Newitt.

put a 390 in it!

I dunno what happened. Given the condition of everything pullled out, Mike says the engine is iffy.

The cylinder heads were NOT cracked; the machinist found they've already been badly and incorrectly rebuilt- hence the issues. Large amount of $ to disassemble and re-build them.

Later when the rain subsides I'll run to the garage to look at the engine #. If it matches I will take the time & effort to tackle this engine. If not, I'll get another one. Am considering a bigger one... funny how you say 390... Keep it original or add power? You'll NEVER KNOW!!!

Or 428?

Scott

aemoo28 said:

I dunno what happened. Given the condition of everything pullled out, Mike says the engine is iffy.

The cylinder heads were NOT cracked; the machinist found they've already been badly and incorrectly rebuilt- hence the issues. Large amount of $ to disassemble and re-build them.

Later when the rain subsides I'll run to the garage to look at the engine #. If it matches I will take the time & effort to tackle this engine. If not, I'll get another one. Am considering a bigger one... funny how you say 390... Keep it original or add power? You'll NEVER KNOW!!!

Click to expand...

Amy, there are several routes to take regarding an engine replacement.

Like has been mentioned already by Paul, ask around for a good running used engine.

Unless you are planning to take your car to a high level consours condition, I would not necessarily stay withing the limits of a 289. 1968 was the last year for the 289 engine.
Think 302 if going used, same block as a 289.

I don't know your budget, but a new 5.0L or 302 engine can be bought from Ford. Just a couple of changes using some of your old parts and reinstall. These come in lots of levels, from mild to wild, power wise. All can use your intake and carburetor induction system.

I am planning on one of the Ford Motorsport crate engines for my 1968 Cougar with 5 speed. The engine in my Cougar will find its was into my GT/CS eventually. It is a good running engine rebuilt by the previous owner, I just need to find the C4 transmission.

The crate engines have lots of power due to the modern cylinder heads and roller cam shaft. And they come with a warranty.

It's blank?

This blue area, is this where the engraved ID # should be? It's been rubbed off or otherwise not stamped. ? right ?

Limelyt, is yours stamped? Thank you for the arrows! I still can't see a #

http://www.californiaspecial.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7918&stc=1&d=1226076125

There was some talk about this car for sale in a prior thread, and there was discussion if the 302 or 289 engine would be in the car when it was ready for selling. I'd forgotten about this.

Anyway, no # means not orig means I can do something else... like a bigger engine...

But for now I'll see if this one works when we put it back together. If it doesn't, then I'll set the car on fire. Just kidding!

Thank you for your help, everyone.

I like CougarCJ's idea the best--a Ford 302 short block or long block.

The roller rockers & cam, and the warranty would be the best deal for Amy, since this (right now) is not a concours car, and a driver car.

I'll contact my pals at Ford to see what I can come up with. Anyone else with a way to get a Ford crate engine at a great price--would be welcome help for Amy...

This has been a difficult project for her, and I'll see what I can do.

Paul.

Amy -
You're looking in the right spot. Clean the area thoroughly (even the blue paint) with steel wool and/or scotchbrite. The stampings were done by hand, and not necessarily in a uniform location, but ON that surface. (With my eyesight, I need to use a BRIGHT lite & a magnifying lens:sad
I have purchased generic o'hauled engines, and the number had been eliminated. Perhaps that's the case with the one you have.

Neil

aemoo28 said:

If not, I'll get another one. Am considering a bigger one... funny how you say 390... Keep it original or add power? You'll NEVER KNOW!!!

Click to expand...

Amy, I also vote you get a rebuilt 302. Look at local engine shops, Schucks, etc. Sometimes you can get a generic rebuilt engine for about $800.00 that will work just fine as a stock engine. If you drop in a 390 you'll have to change the tranny, driveline, front springs, engine brackets, radiator, a whole host of things that will just add to the cost. If you really WANT to spend the cash and have something fast, look into something like this, based on the 302 or 351W.

http://www.coasthigh.com/LongBlocks-s/30.htm

Steve

Amy,
A have been on travel for a week!! Steve is right on if you want to go to a new engine. A big block (FE, 390, 427, 428) change is alot of bucks. He listed most of the big-ticket items. A bunch of other subtle things crop up also. Even going with a higher HP small block will bring in some issues. Headers, rear-ends, bigger exhaust if you want to realize the full potential.

Before you ditch your original block. I have seen cars in this era without VIN stamps on the block. It was very common for no VIN stamps in 65 to 67. Above the starter on the right side of the block should be a casting date and a date code. The casting date will say something like “C8OE- (four numbers). The 8 of course means 1968. C means the 60’s era. D is the 70’s and so on. There should be another cast number of 3 characters with one letter and two numbers. This is the date of the month it was casted. On the heads below the rockers you can also find the cast date codes. If you give them to me, I will tell you the date the engine and heads were casted.

Now, you have a Marti report with the actual build date. The steering box has a tag on it with a date code also. If these dates start to match up a bit and the block is a 68 block, it could be the original engine. Then we can move onto dates on the sheetmetal. That is often overlooked by people as a way to see if all the sheetmetal is original. The dates can vary a bit, but a lot of the time they are close and just before the build date.

The 289 block is very tough. Unless it is bored more than .040, they are good to go. .060 gets iffy as they develop hot spots if the bores are not perfectly in the cyclinder sleeve. Did your engine builder say it was overbored? If you clean the top of a piston, it will normally be stamped .020, .030 (most common) or even .010 or .040. Why does you engine builder say it is iffy??

Rob

What I'd like to do for Amy is find her a new Ford 302 (or Ford remanufactured) long block with a warranty. Basically, a Ford dealer crate engine (carb, not F.I.). I just don't trust that whole 289 in there, based on "the other things about that car". She needs a reliable engine to drive the car, and not have to worry or second-guess what's going on.

I have a good contact at a Ford dealership for a good price for one, but if anyone else out there can find better pricing, please let us know.

The other question is mating the older timing cover and brackets to a contemporary long block. Doesn't Cal Pony Cars make a timing cover that crosses new to old?

If anyone has such a setup in their CS, we'd like to hear from you.

I appreciate the ideas and solutions...but I think for her right, now, a turnkey solution is best. She can still hold on to the old stuff, sell it, look for a dated block, etc.

This car will be a driver for now...and, so, the matching numbers is kind of a moot point, practically speaking.

Thanks for all your help and ideas...

Paul N.
p.s. anyone know of a magazine article that walks you through dropping a new 302 into an older Mustang? Arlie? thanks..

PNewitt said:

What I'd like to do for Amy is find her a new Ford 302 (or Ford remanufactured) long block with a warranty. Basically, a Ford dealer crate engine (carb, not F.I.). I just don't trust that whole 289 in there, based on "the other things about that car". She needs a reliable engine to drive the car, and not have to worry or second-guess what's going on.

I have a good contact at a Ford dealership for a good price for one, but if anyone else out there can find better pricing, please let us know.

The other question is mating the older timing cover and brackets to a contemporary long block. Doesn't Cal Pony Cars make a timing cover that crosses new to old?

If anyone has such a setup in their CS, we'd like to hear from you.

I appreciate the ideas and solutions...but I think for her right, now, a turnkey solution is best. She can still hold on to the old stuff, sell it, look for a dated block, etc.

This car will be a driver for now...and, so, the matching numbers is kind of a moot point, practically speaking.

Thanks for all your help and ideas...

Paul N.
p.s. anyone know of a magazine article that walks you through dropping a new 302 into an older Mustang? Arlie? thanks..

Click to expand...

Sorry Amy, but it looks like none of us are allowed to offer any more advice on your engine situation. Paul apparently knows what's best for you so it looks like we'll be leaving the fate of your engine in his hands.

Best of luck.

AHEM!!! "well, certainly, "I" know more than anyone else here, and I'll take over here, now, thanks, but I'll push everyone else out of the way to help this damsel in distress"...

NOTTTTT!!!

What da heck was that??? LOL!!
<rolling eyes>

Gads NO! I don't know any more than anyone else on this...I just thought it would be a safe way to go, since this darn "satin" CS has been nothing but trouble.

In fact, I need to know things like what will bolt up to the C-4; will we need a specific torque converter, or what???

...and that left-right WP exit timing cover thing.

Gosh--no intent to insult or diss anyone who has had a good idea. Heck, anything is possible. My mind is open....

thanks everyone...!

Paul N.