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68 Shelby Tail light

Roy

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
3
With my lights on, when I brake, the tail lights and interier lights go out. This is not the case when the Headlights are off. The HeadLight switch heats to 120 degrees. We have disassembled the tail lights and cleaned them. Have checked the grounds, and the Brake switch. Have replace the bulbs (twice).

Any suggestions????

Roy
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,003
Roy,

Checking the temperature of the switch was a great idea. If 120 degrees is too hot then it's drawing too much of a load from somewhere. My switches always ran hot and only lasted a few years before my lights started acting like they had a mind of their own.

If it were my money I'd go to the wrecking yard, pull a switch out of a standard '67 or '68, install it, disconnect all but 2 bulbs and see what happens. If you get the same results you're out only $2 for a used switch. If everything works fine start plugging lights back in. If everything still works fine after all the bulbs are installed feel the switch and see if it's hot. My guess is that it will be since I think 6 bulbs are just too many for a switch that was originally designed for 2. It would be interesting to see it Cougars had the same problems.

If it is hot I know of 2 options to cool it down. The first option is to replace the bulbs with LED lights. They are brighter, cooler, and draw less current than the standard bulbs.

The other option is to run a new hot wire to a relay just in front of the lights. I don't know excactly how to do this since a friend of mine had his car wired this way and I never saw the final setup. Maybe we have some electrical savvy members who can help. The theory is to not power the lights through the headlight switch but just run a small relay. The lights are powered straight from a continuous hot lead that is activated by the relay. I'm pretty sure this is for the taillight side of the bulb ony. I don't know how one would run brake lights through such a setup. However it was done it worked great on his car. I think the LED lights will be cheaper, though.

If that isn't the problem and you are positive there are no shorts I'm stumped.

There were some posts about this issue a few weeks back so you might want to scan the past posts for that discussion.
 

PFSlim

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
1,546
Location
Weatherby Lake, MO
Roy

It is my opinion that you need to replace your switch as well. You can buy a used one, if you have access. Otherwise, I think they are around $10-20 repop. The source of a lot of my electrical problems where associated with the headlight switch.

Next, I would really look strong at the grounds. As you very well know, there are many to the mustang and just when you think one ground has nothing to do with that circuit, it fixes it.

Lastly, take a good look at your fuse box. I understand that you are getting good power but these fuse boxes tend to corrode and do other wierd things. Look at the prongs real good to ensure they are not corroding and check power at the fuse box.

Hope this helps ya. I know it can be frustrating.

Paul
 
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R

Roy

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
3
Thank you for all of your suggestions. One quick question, do the brake lights and turn signals go through the headlight switch?

Roy
 
P

PNewitt

Guest
THe previous posts are very helpful, and all Iwould add is to replace BOTH the turnn signal switch and the headlight switch. Something in the headlight switch has shorted out, and the load of the headlights/taillights is making that switch heat up.

I would also do a "continuity" check with a multimeter on the taillight harness--to see if anything from the dash-back is shorting out. You might have a short between the brake part and taillight part of the taillamps (they are two separate filaments).

This can be a mystery--but isolate the problem with a meter and a continuity check (do a Google on "continuity check--and set the meter on the omega symbol).

Paul N.
 
P

PNewitt

Guest
I happened to think that those six taillight sockets can get lots of oxidation and crud on them from over the years, and the two spring-loaded contacts inside the socket can get so messed up, that they will short out the circuit, or not work at all (one contact is for taillights, and one is for the brakes. There are two different filaments (that you can see inside the bulb).

I suggest that at some time (sooner than later), everyone take apart the lenses, gaskets, etc., and get a close look at those sockets. Clean them up, and put a new set of bulbs in there. For mine, I used a Dremel tool with a metal wire brush attachment to clean them up.

After 35 years, this is one part of the car needing a lot of attention.

Paul N.
 
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Roy

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
3
Update on my problem. Found one of the sockets was not grounding well and once repiared I was able to keep the light on, however the power wire to the light switch was still over heating. Replaced the Light switch today and all lights are burning brite, and the wirers are cool. Must have been a lot of resistance in the switch.

Thanks for your help

Roy
 
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