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Old 01/26/2018, 08:21 AM   #31
franklinair
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IIRC, the switches on the door latch mechanism are pretty reliable. I'd start by checking wiring/connections.
The Low Fuel sensor on the fuel tank sending unit is a temperature sensor that sends a Ground for the light when the gas level gets low. Don't know who repairs or sells these fuel sending units.

Neil
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Old 01/26/2018, 10:27 AM   #32
robert campbell
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My door switches had corrosion on the contacts and needed to be cleaned. Lots of fun to remove and replace, but they worked when done.

Rob
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Old 01/26/2018, 06:11 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batgirl89 View Post
Marty, we will pull the glass & get new seals. Want it done right and I want to be able to drive it in the rain (when our F350 & Excursion doesn't start/need repair, the mustangs are my go to vehicles, Ive been driving my Grey GT/CS this month in the rain!)

Where should I purchase parchment headliner & parchment top?

I will also be asking you for help getting the Convenience Group going. (I found the thread on concoursmustang) I have power to all bulb sockets with my test light. Im going to replace all bulbs and go from there. Belts works perfect already, and Fuel we will deal with later. But Park and Door both stay on. (when I removed the hose from the parking brake I was hoping it would just work)
Thank you for your help!! Sheryl
I have had good luck using TMI products purchased from NPD. Best tip on the headliner and top is go slow, be patent do not trim off too much at a time.

The Convenience lights are one of the toughest things that I have worked on. There are six harness for it. Good idea to start with new bulbs Seat belts UL 1445 Park Brake UL 256 Door ajar UL256 Low Fuel UL1445. The UL256 are tough to find because the flash which help to not melt the lens plastic. I may have a extra. Most likely the brake and door lights are just out of adjustment. As Rob said getting to the one in the door can be a challenge. The low fuel is the tough one because you must have a original sender and then most likely the thermal resister on it is burned out. They are available but are thirty some dollars. I burned out my first on trying to test it. There is too much about this to type so PM me and I will give you my phone number and we can talk about it.
Marty
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Old 01/26/2018, 08:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatchdog View Post
Great idea, looking forward to seeing this beauty! Being the same color will add to the presentation! My dream is to get a three speed six banger in driver condition for a putt around car. Too many dreams, not enough means.
Here's one that's overpriced, and an automatic, but they've been trying to sell it for a long time so the price is probably negotiable.
https://classics.autotrader.com/clas...ang/100948715#

This getting older ain't for cowards. - John Mellencamp
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Old 01/27/2018, 10:56 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesatm View Post
Here's one that's overpriced, and an automatic, but they've been trying to sell it for a long time so the price is probably negotiable.
https://classics.autotrader.com/clas...ang/100948715#
15k and its missing a hub cap!
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Old 01/27/2018, 11:01 AM   #36
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Rob, I have little T-Rex arms and they are still healing(cuts & bruises) from last weekend re-connecting the tubes to the defrost vents in '68 bronco

Neil & Marty, thanks for the info, Im going to dig around & do some cleaning of contacts. I finally have time today. Ill let you know how it goes. Sheryl
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Old 01/27/2018, 02:46 PM   #37
robert campbell
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Sheryl,
Get the door panels off and look at the latch from inside. Have someone move the door latch and if you will look they are easy to identify. Maybe a squirt of WD-40 will work, but in my case.... Not..... As you know make sure the bulbs are good.

I may have access to the old fuel sender from my car. That was the only light that I could not get to work. I think it was the sending unit and I may be able to get it back. It went with the car.

Rob
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Old 01/27/2018, 06:26 PM   #38
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All bulbs work

Park: Works when I put grounded test light on it. I have power at bullet green wire going into top of sensor. Brake handle has nub to depress sensor to shut off light, But its not lighting up the "park" light when the brake is pulled out.

Door: Blinking bulb wont shut off
Ive taken the doors apart, WD40 inside door latch and sanded & contact greased wire connector.

How does the door latch work the convenience light?

I think this is the first time the passenger door had been cracked open. Driver door had armhole in water shield. There are not speaker holes cut under the door grills.

Rob, I saw that WCCC makes a repo fuel sending unit w/sensor! (Its out of stock, I wonder if they will get more in) https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.co...tml?attribs=76

Im going to have a drink now, car torn apart, nothing working or fixed.
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Old 01/27/2018, 09:47 PM   #39
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The Brake and Door lights are just grounds to light the light. You need to see if the arm on the door switch breaks contact when it is latched. I would take the brake light out and check with a meter when it is depressed it should not be grounded. It may just need to be cleaned up.

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Old 01/27/2018, 10:25 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruppstang View Post
The Brake and Door lights are just grounds to light the light. You need to see if the arm on the door switch breaks contact when it is latched. I would take the brake light out and check with a meter when it is depressed it should not be grounded. It may just need to be cleaned up.
Thank you Marty! You give me hope
I'll try and do this in the next few days (and I'll call you if it doesnt work)
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Old 01/27/2018, 11:23 PM   #41
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Very cool car. Unique color combo.

Cool Manchu - did you buy this car 4 or 5years ago outside of Chico CA? I tried to buy a car very much like this back in the day. I would bet money this is that same car.

Azbeneman
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Old 01/28/2018, 07:26 AM   #42
Ruppstang
 
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Sheryl,
I had a idea this morning. Did you say the lights stay on? If so the is a system check circuit that should light all of the lights when your key is in start position. Check the starter solenoid there should be a small red wire #316 on with the starter cable, the side closest to the firewall. If it goes to the other side that is the problem. That side is hot all of the time. If you do not know post a picture of the solenoid.
Do not give up we will figure it out. If all else fails drive it out here to Nebraska and we will have some fun with it.
Marty

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Old 01/28/2018, 07:27 AM   #43
Mosesatm
 
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Yes, this is the Paradise car.
Here are some photos from the original ad.
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Last edited by Mosesatm; 01/28/2018 at 01:14 PM..

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Old 01/28/2018, 10:28 AM   #44
Batgirl89
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azbeneman View Post
Very cool car. Unique color combo.

Cool Manchu - did you buy this car 4 or 5years ago outside of Chico CA? I tried to buy a car very much like this back in the day. I would bet money this is that same car.

Azbeneman
We want to hear your story!
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Old 01/28/2018, 11:00 AM   #45
Batgirl89
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruppstang View Post
Sheryl,
I had a idea this morning. Did you say the lights stay on? If so the is a system check circuit that should light all of the lights when your key is in start position. Check the starter solenoid there should be a small red wire #316 on with the starter cable, the side closest to the firewall. If it goes to the other side that is the problem. That side is hot all of the time. If you do not know post a picture of the solenoid.
Do not give up we will figure it out. If all else fails drive it out here to Nebraska and we will have some fun with it.
Marty
Thank you for thinking about this!! It would be fun to come to Nebraska and work on my cars! I wish we lived closer to all you guys, but the help I get here I so appreciate, I would be lost if I was on my own!

The red wire is on hot side, starter cable is only thing on other side. so would this be the correct red wire 316? I couldn't find any identifiers on it. So I should move it to the other side? I wont blow anything up?
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