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1968 Painting the engine bay

aemoo28

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
1,127
Location
The Great Northwest
So I have everything out- except the engine itself. Wires, hoses, alt, rad, batt, heads, dist, intake man, everything. Even the exhuast things underneath are disconnected, and it's a NIGHTMARE of rust and owies under there!!

Should I paint the inside of the bay? The walls, I mean.

In two weeks everything goes back in, after being rebuilt/tested/replaced.

As long as I have all this exposed, and it's so ugly, I'm wondering if I should paint.

Anyone have any good pictures to share?

What is the color code for Raven Black?
 

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,186
Color code A - for Raven Black in 1968.

It is possible to get decent results from painting the engine bay with the engine installed. Even better results will be achieved with the engine removed.
The firewall will be the most difficult to get good coverage without runs.

You do not want to see my GT/CS engine bay, trust me.
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,649
If you're that far along, it's only another hour to get the engine out. If it was me, I'd pull the engine/tranny, bead blast the engine compartment and repaint it. I think you'll be a lot happier with it.

Steve
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,009
So I have everything out- except the engine itself. Wires, hoses, alt, rad, batt, heads, dist, intake man, everything. Even the exhuast things underneath are disconnected, and it's a NIGHTMARE of rust and owies under there!!

Should I paint the inside of the bay? The walls, I mean.

In two weeks everything goes back in, after being rebuilt/tested/replaced.

As long as I have all this exposed, and it's so ugly, I'm wondering if I should paint.

Anyone have any good pictures to share?

What is the color code for Raven Black?

You're making me nervous Amy. Why are you asking for the raven black paint code in a thread about the engine compartment?

The engine compartment should be semi-flat black. I like SEM Low-Gloss Black Trim Paint.
 

PFSlim

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2004
Messages
1,546
Location
Weatherby Lake, MO
I sandbasted mine, then coated with POR15 to stop the rust. Then coated with semi-gloss as a top coat on top of the POR15. POR15 is applied with a foam brush and easy to get into all the nooks and cranny's. We are now over 3 years old and looks like it did when we finished it.

The last picture is in POR15 and without top coat.

Paul
 

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Northern Pony

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Messages
268
Go with the SEM Trim Black 39143. It is the color for the engine bay, and also the easiest to work with. It blends really well, and you should not get a lot of runs. As advised now is the time to pull the engine and do it right, if not you will wish later that you did.
This is the time of year to take your time as driving season has almost left us.
BoB
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,740
I just went thru this excercise with my '68 convert. Steve is right, about pulling the engine to have open access to the engine bay. Not knowing first hand the extent of any rust you may have, its tough to offer a solution there. As far as cleaning, prep for paint, its a grunge job. I used Gunk, mineral spirits, steel wool, rubber gloves for cleaning prior to prep for painting. Any rust must be sanded & treated prior to paint. I use Ospho (available at NAPA) to treat the sanded, rusty surfaces. After everything is all clean & pretty, soak a clean rag (actually I use paper towels) with alcohol and liberally wipe ALL surfaces to be painted. (If the engine is out, this is the time to clean & paint the steering components - steering rods, P/S ram actuator with Cast Blast - available from NPD.) Naturally mask of the hoses (I replaced mine) with BLUE masking tape.
Krylon used to make the best satin finish for the engine compartment, but they evidently changed their formula and now its too glossy. Believe it or not, I found the best aerosol satin finish at Wal-Mart!! I used it on mine, and its just about perfect.
As far as the metal lines in the engine compartment, don't worry if black paint gets on them. After all the black surfaces are painted, go over the steel lines with steel wool (I use 000) to smooth them. Then use Seymour Stainless Steel aerosol to paint them. I put paper behind the steel lines to prevent the silver overspray from getting on the fresh black paint.
The steering box & master brake cylinder should be sprayed with the Cast Blast aerosol. Just put paper & masking tape behind/around these units to block the overspray from getting on the black surfaces. The hood hinges can be painted with the Cast Blast also (best to remove them for cleaning & painting).
I replaced ALL of the fender bolts with fresh cadmium finish. This should also include the 12 bolts that are along the side of the shock towers.

If all of this seems over whelming, fly me to SEA, feed me for 3 days, and I'll do it all for you!! And when I'm done, it will meet or beat MCA standards:smile:

Neil
 
Last edited:

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,186
If all of this seems over whelming, fly me to SEA, feed me for 3 days, and I'll do it all for you!! And when I'm done, it will meet or beat MCA standards:smile:

Neil


Neil, is that offer good for ONT too?:grin:
 

HappyHour

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2007
Messages
496
Location
Bay Area\ SoCal
Cougar maybe we should split his airfare.....It was lemonade and sunscreen by the pool in San Bernardino this weekend.

:wink:
 
OP
OP
aemoo28

aemoo28

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
1,127
Location
The Great Northwest
You guys are absolutely the best Special friends a girl could wish for!!

I asked this question to get the feedback I needed, and didn't know what color it should be in the first place. Now I know- SEM black 39143. Now, where do I get it?

So thank you, one and all!

And Neil, you're a true gent. Very kind offer. It reached almost 60 here today.
 
OP
OP
aemoo28

aemoo28

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
1,127
Location
The Great Northwest
feeling blue

Bad news- the heads are not cracked. $500 to get them rebuilt. A few other things had been monkeyed together incorrectly.

Many other mechanical issues that will have to wait for $. Next year maybe.

I have a dead CS that's completely gutted in my garage. No $ to put her back together right now. This from a car that was "in great mechanical condition".

I know others have been is this depressing position. How do you get thru these tough times? I can't even look at her.

:icon_bore
 

390cs68rcode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2004
Messages
2,864
Location
Houston Texas
clean or restore another part of the car while it is sitting. EVERY car can be cleaned or restored (more).

Bad news- the heads are not cracked. $500 to get them rebuilt. A few other things had been monkeyed together incorrectly.

Many other mechanical issues that will have to wait for $. Next year maybe.

I have a dead CS that's completely gutted in my garage. No $ to put her back together right now. This from a car that was "in great mechanical condition".

I know others have been is this depressing position. How do you get thru these tough times? I can't even look at her.

:icon_bore
 
P

PNewitt

Guest
Hey Amykins...

You'll need to mask the fenders really well with wide masking tape and paper.

The holes in your shock towers will have to be filled (ideally, welded), but you might try some bondo (other ideas?). Sorry, spackle won't work....

That paint in there needs to be stripped. There must be about eight coats of thick crappy black paint. Some sort of stripper suggestions? ( no, not THAT kind of....)...

Anyway...I like the POR15 idea. Most definately use that, AMY!!!

Great ideas in the previous posts!!

Paul.
 
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