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Old 04/28/2011, 05:45 AM   #16
nfrntau
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[QUOTE=cnassif;79475]
So far the tally is:
Don't change it idiot - 5.5 votes
Do what you like - 3.5 votes

Make that 6.5 - 3.5, although I like personal accents, ie' stripes baby

You may make it without friends; but with them, you can do anything.
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Old 04/28/2011, 08:50 AM   #17
Midnight Special
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...I always like these "what would make everyone happy" threads. They're always popular with a lot of individuals who showcase what makes themselves happy (and with the best of ideas). My point is - don't discount your own ideas or be shy about sharing them on a future thread of like with pride and your own sense of value. In another unpleasant, but documented fact, remember also that the author who gathered up information for this book (who now disses this group) tried to sell his extremely worn and less correct car at the price of a Shelby simply because it was "his" (sense of value) rather than with the effort and expense that most people endure. No need to try & impress likes of him IMO...

As far as color, stripes, high performance and safety mods etc..., by all means, but your greatest joy and safety will come with your own respectful operation and pride that will be affirmed best by people in your own neighborhood. You'll see :-)

Tim
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Old 04/28/2011, 09:58 AM   #18
teamlo
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Meadowlark Yellow, black vinyl top, black stripes.

: )

Terry
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Old 04/28/2011, 04:31 PM   #19
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I gotta go with Arlie on the color: Highland Green has always been a favorite of mine. And the fact that it's original doesn't hurt!!

Neil
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Old 04/28/2011, 05:38 PM   #20
vman
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Tough decision to make. Have to agree on the highland green. In saying that my car has had a pretty colourfull past.(excuse the pun) Started its life as lime gold with matching interior. By the time I had got it , it was some kind of 2 pack red that was falling off in chunks. Other bits that had been modified were side pods had been fiberglassed into the body as if it was all one piece. It had been converted to right hand drive ,thus the air conditioner ,power steering and heater were all removed. It also had incorrect driving lights and void of the hood latches. Not to mention the interior had been changed to black and the original J code block replaced with a standard 302 windsor. Over time I have repainted it in candy apple red.(A 1968 paint colour) I have also sourced lucas lights and hood latches. I have done my best to bring it back to what can be identified as a california special with my budget which is pretty small considering I have 3 teenage kids. While I own it , it would be safe to say that it will not be returning back to or resemble how it originated.
Good luck with what ever you choose and enjoy your choice.
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Old 04/29/2011, 12:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruppstang View Post
I am a MCA concours judge so you know where my personal allegiances are. I helped both of my boys build 67 & 68 driver cars. They were all over the map on color changes. I encoraged them to keep their orignial colors or at least choose a Mustang color. In the end they kept the orignial color but doubled the grain size of the metalic. The results were beautiful. Craig's 67 is clear water aqua not quite gulfstream aqua but close. I will post a picture of it. In the end do what makes YOU HAPPY! Marty
Along that thread, were you pleased with the paint? I was considering making it more metallic or pearl, regardless of the color.

On a quick note, I have an MCA question. I had to replace some of the metal on my car with new metal. Not sure how they would blend the seam for the floor pans from underneath so I would assume that would be docked points. Is that true?

Christian
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Old 04/29/2011, 05:00 AM   #22
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Cristian,
I am very happy with the paint on both their cars and the modifications they they did as well. My older son Travis is 6-5 so we used a 69 seat back with head rests. I wished we would have shortened the seat pedestals to give him a bit more head room. Everything that we did was a bolt on so we can go back. The cars were fun to build not having to worry about every nut and bolt being correct.
Yes if you can see that a repair has been made then expect a point or two deduction. The best repair in any case is to replace the whole panel but I under stand on the floor pan some times a small repair is more cost effective. If you choose the latter I would recommend a butt joint on the repair, weld and grind. If good workmanship is used it is hard to tell. Also do not for get to replace the drips in the red oxide. Marty

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Old 04/29/2011, 11:38 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnassif View Post
I have a Highland Green C-Code that I have nearly completed all the metal work on. Next is body work and paint. I have the new GT/CS Recognition guide and it is incredibly thorough and a beauty. My name isn't in the registry either but I get to own the car so I'm not too worried about it.

First and foremost, I want to DRIVE this car on a daily basis and I don't have $50k to put into it. That being said, I'm confused about what to do when restoring it. As Paul notes on page 135 of his book, the "daily driver" represents most of us GT/CS owners. I do not have the original engine for safety am planning on adding disc brakes, use newer AC, and big crate motor of some kind. I will probably also be converting it from automatic to manual. Many of you out there may already be cringing but I would like my restomod to be safe and perform.

I am doing a complete "frame off" rotisserie clean up and then going to paint. I would like your feedback on my choices.
Choice 1: Paint it the original Highland Green (not a lot of pop to this color)
Choice 2: Paint it another GT/CS color
Choice 3: Paint it a custom color to highlight its restomod / custom status.

Understanding that my goal is not resale value but it is to drive and enjoy for myself for years to come, what are your thoughts?

P.S. For the purists out there who have restored theirs to original, I commend you all. After reading what goes into every hose clamp and part to make sure its concourse correct, I commend each and every one of you. Especially knowing that you had to gather all this information before the book came out. Well done. I just would feel bad to drive it after doing all that work and I really, really want to drive it. Go easy on me.

bear in mind, bright colors, or vividly contrasting colors can be seen by officers of the law for miles. food for thought if you have a heavy foot like me.
and 3m clear bra on the front does protect the car from rock chips. something is needed for driven cars

jbart
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Old 04/29/2011, 12:03 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBART View Post
bear in mind, bright colors, or vividly contrasting colors can be seen by officers of the law for miles. food for thought if you have a heavy foot like me.
and 3m clear bra on the front does protect the car from rock chips. something is needed for driven cars
Will keep that in mind when I end up speeding down Highway 5.

Christian
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Old 04/29/2011, 10:19 PM   #25
p51
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My $0.03 (adjusted for inflation)

Why not keep it highland green and, since its really a restomod, go the extra step and make a Green Hornet.

Also, if you make it a manual put in a 5-speed.

The world stands aside to let anyone pass who knows where he is going.
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Old 05/03/2011, 01:17 AM   #26
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I've looked through almost all of the galleries and garages and have been unable to find many pictures of the underside of the cars. That being said, I was wondering how many people painted theirs the correct Red Oxide vs. Satin Black. Would love to hear the pros and cons to each. The only think I don't like about it the Red Oxide is it looks an awful lot like rusted metal.

Christian
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Old 05/03/2011, 05:18 AM   #27
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There was a resent thread here about the red oxide. There were several differnt shades of it. Can you find a good spot left under your car? San Jose cars did not use black but if you are restomoding the car it does not make any difference. Marty
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Old 05/03/2011, 06:56 AM   #28
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This site seems to have good information regarding underside painting.
http://www.thecoralsnake.com/PAINT.HTML
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