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Old 09/25/2016, 09:36 AM   #16
GreenSpark
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert campbell View Post
To owners of Mustangs. The check above is also how easy it is to steal your car. A thief with a short wire and two alligator clips can provide 12 volts to your coil. Then using a small screw driver he/she can short between your solenoid post and the battery terminal to roll your engine. It will start and run.

He/she can only drive as far as your battery will hold, but even in the dark they can drive 20 miles or so.... In daylight without head lights and other stuff they can drive a long long ways!

My car has a hood lock to eliminate this. And the club is the next best thing. Car alarms are basically useless. No one listens to them anymore.

Fortunately the common thief is just looking for a Honda Civic....

Rob
When it was my daily driver, I used to pop the hood and fiddle around with the engine after parking, pocketing the coil wire in the process. Thieves rarely carry a spare coil wire.
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Old 09/25/2016, 10:46 AM   #17
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If I were a thief I'd use one of the spark plug wires if the coil wire was missing.

I always used a dummy coil wire.
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Old 09/30/2016, 10:38 AM   #18
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I found a shifter with a key lock. They might get it started, but getting it in gear will be challenging. My hope is they can't figure it out and trying to remove the handle is pretty much impossible to do quickly.

Note to self, get a spare key made!!
Bret
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Old 10/01/2016, 09:21 AM   #19
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Hey Craig! Where are we these days??

Rob
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Old 10/01/2016, 08:18 PM   #20
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So the car show I was getting ready for, The Run to the Pines in Pinetop AZ was last weekend. The GTCS stayed home, bit I went anyway. The funny thing is, of the 4 guys I go with, only one car made it this year.

My Grandfather is in town so we worked on it this afternoon. He is pretty handy with old cars. He definitely thinks it's electrical. Now the car is dying every time it gets up to highway cruising speeds. No longer dying on left hand turns though.

We chased the wires under the hood and found the brown wire on the starter solenoid was barely attached. We tightened that connection, but it is still not running right. He didn't like the fit and shape of the rotor. We put the old one back in. Before and after, the idle is not real smooth. Driving around town seems fine though. He thinks I should get a different cap because the one that is on there doesn't seem to fit real snug. After that, we are going back to points. I haven't done that yet because I need to buy a screw that secures the points to the distributor.

Another thing, I need to check my receipts, but I am pretty sure I bought a new alternator wiring harness and alternator when I rebuild the car. I can't find where the resistor on the alternator plugs in with this new wiring harness.

I am beginning to think my distributor is off by one tooth. How do I know when the distributor needs to be rebuilt?

Craig
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Old 10/01/2016, 08:35 PM   #21
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Don't forget the condenser; it can cause all sorts of problems.

If you think your distributor is off by a tooth try adjusting the timing one way or the other. If it starts running better when you turn the distributor it may be off. Another way to tell is to move all the plug wires one way then the other.
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Old 10/02/2016, 09:19 AM   #22
robert campbell
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When the distributor is installed properly the vacuum advance is pointing basically straight ahead. If you have a timing light it should be "in the ballpark" of 6 degrees before top dead center and hot idle with the vacuum hose of the vacuum advance.

You should be able to move the distributor clockwise towards the thermostat housing and she the engine advance towards 12 to 15 degrees BTDC without running the vacuum advance into the thermostat housing. Likewise you should be able to retard the timing by turning it counterclockwise.

I prefer 12 degrees BTDC for most stock engines. Some a bit more or a bit less.

I doubt that you are off one tooth as the engines really run terrible in this condition. Depending on your coil location and air conditioning brackets there is a huge window to swing the distributor around.

Again I suggest running a simple wire from the positive battery terminal to the plus side of the coil. If this solves the problem it is wiring between the ignition switch of the ignition switch itself. It is simple to do and if the problem persists, it is the coil or distributor components.

Rob
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Old 11/12/2016, 09:59 AM   #23
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Alright, I have been out of town for most of the past 6 weeks. I haven't had time to work on the car until today. I took out the Petronix and put in new points and gapped it properly. Put in old coil. Now it won't start at all.

I Rob suggested, I ran a wire from the battery to the coil. It still would not start. I swapped out the old coil for the Petronix? Turns over but does not fire.

So if I can't get it to start with a straight wire from battery to coil, so then is the problem between the ignition and the coil?

Craig
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Old 11/12/2016, 10:45 AM   #24
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Craig,
My son's name is Kraig! Please do not be offended, but are you sure you are on the positive side of the coil with the 12 volt wire? A points system will have only one wire from the negative side of the coil to the points.

The Pertronix system uses a red wire to the positive side of the coil and a black wire to the negative side. The red wire for 12 volt power is on the positive post coupled up with the red wire from the Pertronix.

If this is all proper and you can test and see 12 volts at the coil, then you are correct, ignition components are at fault. You may have two bad coils? This is perplexing.

Rob
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Old 11/12/2016, 07:59 PM   #25
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Please don't be offended by this either, but did you put the rotor back in?
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Old 11/12/2016, 09:08 PM   #26
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Rob,

I have it set up right. It occurred to me that both coils could be bad. I almost bought a replacement Petronix coil to test last month, but all they had was chrome. I didn't want to spend $50 on that.

The original coil I have been substituting in came with the car. The car ran pretty good 2 years ago when I bought it, but that coil appears to be at least 30 years old. It might be bad. My next step it to buy a normal coil to try with the points I have installed currently.

If that doesn't work, it is time to get under the dash for an hour or two. I will keep you guys posted.
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Old 11/13/2016, 10:21 AM   #27
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Craig,
I am convinced that the problem is not under the dash. Not to worry!

Rob
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