• Welcome to the CaliforniaSpecial.com forums! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all our site features, please take a moment to join our community! It's fast, simple and absolutely free.

    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

    Please Note: If you are an existing member and your password no longer works, click here to reset it.

1968 Repaint under way...

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Decided it was time to spruce up the GT/CS. Shop had a window or opportunity, and the EXP is on hold for various reasons...

Stripping begin, about 5 hours of work and

  • all badges and exterior trim
  • hood locks
  • rear panel and valence
  • rear seat and rear interior panels
  • trunk area bits
  • vinyl top
  • headliners
  • windows
  • side scoops

Removed...

Overall the car is in good shape. So far no surprises and the rust under the vinyl roof was far less significant than I expected (see other post in restoration ref sections)

Plan is to strip horizontal surfaces, scuff back the rest. Pull engine and repaint bay/repaint engine, some new minor wiring under hood (oil feed, hood turn signals), new motor mounts, and completely redone brakes (master cylinder to drums). Some new suspension rubber, but nothing else under the car.

Hopping 8-12 weeks... we'll see...







One odd area near the rear window, hard to tell but almost looks like some factory error in the metal... very odd, need to dig a bit further and see what happens in stripping the paint and prepping the rear glass channel... a big "flange" of metal away from the base, but with pint over it and as the second paint job was a quick and nasty and overspray is on most trim edges not sure if this is factory or some form of "repair"....

 

x-codegtcs

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
549
Location
Kaysville, UT
Looking good! You will probably beat me done. In your last photo, I think that's the lead seam from the qtr C pillar joint that is separating.
 

admin

Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Aug 18, 2002
Messages
2,049
You actually found a body guy that can do lead? I thought they all died off! :grin:
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Well, a few more hours today and a few over the weekend and the car is almost completely stripped. All that is left is to remove the guts from one door, pull the engine/trans (no access for the lift at the shop, all loose and ready to come out), and remove the brake lines.

Still needs to roll so the rear axle and leafs will come out to be cleaned, painted, and put back in later. Same with the front suspension, and will do the Shelby drop then.

In the "exploration" I am really pleased with the car. The underside will clean up great, no repaint, and on the interior found this...



Completely intact, no cracks, dry inside, no rust...

And this too, which is a score for me, never found one in such good shape.





Usually I drill out all the rivets, and redo the whole thing... this one is getting a mild clean-up, no dye, no paint other than on the removable inner metal bits, new brass core, and going back in.

The steering column retainer was held in by two bright zinc screws, and 4 shiny copper washer ones as well... the firewall pad looks new.... did not have the camera at the shop. Amazingly well preserved.

One odd item, the black retainers for the resistor. I have always seen the white nylon push-pins/split rivets... these are quite different, anyone else have them?

 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
And some pics of the driveshaft. Cleaning only with wax and grease remover and a scotch-brite....





Any suggestions on a finish to keep it looking OK as long as possible? Rust converter, wax? Not keen on clear coat as it will encapsulate rust.
 

g scott

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
13
Location
Porterville, Ca.
Looking good. I sand my driveshafts with 220 then progressively finer sandpaper untill the DS looks new. Then I mix paint and brush the correct color stripes back on. I've used clear in the past and with the sanding there's no rust and it works great. I'm thinking on the 65 coupe I'm restoring now trying RPM ( Rust Prevention Magic) I get from NPD then apply the stripes. Not sure what will work effectively without cleaning off the rust unless just paint with Por-15 type, cast blast paint or maybe Bioshield T-9. gary
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Thanks, but I am not stripping back to bare, want to leave the existing factory paint so will not clean up much more than shown in the areas already done... looking to preserve as much as I can, not replicate...
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
A few codes and dates from the engine. Look reasonable, but he Jan manifold and lack of a date on the water pump (maybe a repro, not sure yet) are looking like maybe a rebuild and some add-ons.

Block C8AE-6015-B 8C5 5-Apr-68
RH Head 8C7 7-Apr-68
LH Head 8C6 6-Apr-68
RH Exh Manifold C6OE-9430-F 8B23 23-Feb-68
LH Exh Manifold C6OE-9431-F 8A25 25-Jan-68
Intake manifold 8B29 29-Feb-68
Water pump - -
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Continued prep before paint, a good few hours yesterday removing some spray on goo the PO added to the trunk. I guess the plus is it may have helped keep rust away...

Before







After







Next, strip engine bay and finish removing old vinyl roof glue...
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Well... as a faded driver not really a "star", and an odd coincidence of timing.

In disassembling have been VERY pleased with the condition of the car... very little rust and other than a LH front bingle and repro front bumper/arms and service fender/bucket looking pretty unmolested.

Anyone know what a chalk "X" on the front part of the RH outer apron would indicate?
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
A few hours today with stripper then a pressure wash and some rust converter...







A bit more to finish prep, but pretty happy with the results.
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
A few hours yesterday and a few more today. All the metal is looking great, all FomoCo and only some minor dings in the front of one fender.











One door to strip, and the rear quarters and they can get it into etch....
 

68sunlitgold

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2002
Messages
1,357
Richard,
In your picture of the trunk, on the right side where the tire tie-down is, there is a blue tag that looks like a VIN tag. What is it? Is that something that an American car that is brought into Australia has to have placed on it? Just curious. Thanks

Doug
 
OP
OP
D

dalorzo_f

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
1,886
Location
Brisbane Australia
Queensland requires a compliance plate to be affixed to the car for registration.

A nice money grab by the government and local "engineers"...

Different states here have different rules, it is not part of the import process. That requires other paperwork and hoops, they are making it harder.
 
Top